Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Strong/Ballantyne shipping out busted bobbins!?

This is topic Strong/Ballantyne shipping out busted bobbins!? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Dan Lyons (Member # 1454) on 06-20-2003, 02:33 PM:

My order from Strong came today, some of which were the parts to rebuild my busted framing coupler. However, the new bobbin they sent me has 1 crack, and 1 place that looks like it will snap with the slightest touch. Both of these are on opposite sides of the same "slot". [Eek!]

This is the very reason I ordered a new one, my old bobbin was cracked like this all around in all 3 slots.

Is there no quality control at Strong? Is this part considered to be "good enough" or usuable? I await your expert opinions before contacting my dealer.

Danny

Posted by Joe Beres (Member # 678) on 06-20-2003, 02:39 PM:

I would not install that coupler, unless you are down, and the one you are replacing is in much worse shape. Did you get it drop shipped from Strong, or did it come from a dealer's stock? Give them (or perhaps your dealer) a call and let them know what you have. I have had nothing but good experiences with Strong. They stand behind their products 100%

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 06-20-2003, 02:46 PM:

Danny,

Thats definately not right. Perhaps it was a used bobbin sent to you by whoever sent it....
Mark

Posted by Dan Lyons (Member # 1454) on 06-20-2003, 03:09 PM:

Thanks guys, I'll make some phone calls now.

BTW, the shipment came directly from Ballantyne in Omaha, no way this could have been a used one.

Danny

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 06-20-2003, 03:14 PM:

Mistakes happen, and a used, returned, or defective one could have accidently been returned to stock.

Posted by Don Sneed (Member # 955) on 06-20-2003, 05:41 PM:

That crack is nothing to be concern with...if you install a new spline & remove it a few day latter you will see the same thing..the inside part you see crack, do't worry about, I have insallede & replace thousands of these...believe me don't worry about that...the important thing is the tiny white plastic caps or pinhead holding the nylon spline to the metal...if they are missing...NOW WORRY !!!...that crack, don't even bother Strong about...I'm only concern if the caps are broken or missing...trust me on this one ....

Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 06-20-2003, 06:07 PM:

I never install bobbins that are cracked. I simply do not trust them. But yet, I never received one from Strong International that was busted.

Posted by Randy Bowden (Member # 587) on 06-20-2003, 08:57 PM:

Don you are 100% absolutely right! Nothing wrong with that coupler, I have installed quite a few that look just like it.

Posted by Don Sneed (Member # 955) on 06-20-2003, 11:03 PM:

Dan trust me there is nothing wrong with the spline in the picture, question: you do know about the "DOT" on the end of the of the spline, & which way it came out of the coupler ??

Posted by Dan Lyons (Member # 1454) on 06-21-2003, 12:54 PM:

Just an update. Strong is shipping me out a replacement next week.

As far as the "dot", I never noticed it; however I do know the correct way to reinstall these. [Big Grin]

Danny

Posted by Don Sneed (Member # 955) on 06-21-2003, 08:31 PM:

Dan if you didn't notice the dot, tell me the correct way to install without damaging the new spline, I'm not being a smart ass, just don't want you to damage the new spline...the dot is on the spline is to mark the direction it goes back into the coupler assy...it is on every spline...

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 06-21-2003, 09:10 PM:

Don,
Instead of holding Danny hostage with the dot thingy why not just take 5 min and type out exactly how it all goes together. After all, this could be a benefit for alot more people here than just Dan.
I believe this is Dans first major rebuild and any technical help anyone might give him I'm sure would be well apreciated......
I commend Dan on tackling it. For a first machine to attempt, he did not pick and easy one.........
Mark @ CLACO

Posted by Don Sneed (Member # 955) on 06-22-2003, 12:04 AM:

Your right Mark, I didn't mean it to sound like it did...the Dot is shown in Dan's picture on the right...when you remove the spline from the coupler, remember the way the coupler came off the intermittent end so it will go back on the same way...when removing the spline, look for the dot & install it the same way it came out this makes re-assumble easier...while in the coupler look at the bearings to see if they are intact & rolling correctly...be sure to have both washer raceway in the coupler for the bearings..when installing the spline, screw the end cap back on, snug down slightly then back off a little to get the spline room to move but not much, only a wee bit, so tighten hand tight, back off a hair....

Here is a trick....before installing the sprocket assy & intermittent, install the coupler on each shaft three or four times each to seat the spline grooves to the grooves on the shafts, this will make it much more easy to install on the machine...I install the intermittent first (do not tighten down the movement all the way), I re install the framing handle & put the coupler on the sprocket shaft & use the framing to seat the coupler to the intermittent, you may have to turn the sprocket a little to find the groove...once install, I tighten the sprocket assy & intermittent while turning the shutter by hand to feel for any binds...if a bind is felt, back off the intermittent screws & start to re tighten slowly while turning the shutter blade over unitl all is tight & no bind...the trick is to seat the coupler on the shafts before installing, this will prevent damage to the spline & make the installation much easier & faster...good luck !!

Posted by Dan Lyons (Member # 1454) on 06-22-2003, 04:54 PM:

Thanks guys.

I agree that this is a tricky machine, but it was within my budget compared to other machines. Well, not all, but I have no interest in messing with a hundred year old Simplex.

As far as that DoT goes, It needs to be closest to the outboard arm for the shafts to slide in correctly.

Danny