Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Film trap cooling

This is topic Film trap cooling in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Chris Hipp (Member # 1788) on 08-21-2003, 05:50 PM:

I have a problem with my 3k houses (strong highlight II, 1060 projector) with the metal heat sinks getting too hot and warping. Often it gets bad enough that it will scrape on the shutter and I am worried that it may damage the shutter or jam it up and strip a gear.

My question is:

Would I be better off installing a glass heat filter, or the add on fan for the film trap? Water cooling would be too obvious to the higher ups and it out of the question.

Thanks

Posted by Ken McFall (Member # 845) on 08-21-2003, 05:59 PM:

Install a heat filter & or Cold Mirror rather than just going for water cooling.

A heat filer / Cold mirror would reduce the heat over the entire gate area including the film itself. Water cooling would only cool the gate and runners, the film would still be subjected to the intense heat that is after all the cause of the problem.

Anything over 2k should really be using heat filters and cold mirrors.

It would be nice to be able to go for the whole package but I think most would agree the Heat Filer / Mirror would offer the best overall advantage.....

Blind fold now being put on and standing against wall waiting for firing squad!

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-21-2003, 11:18 PM:

A highlite console would have by default a cold mirror
There is a blower that fits on the back of the projector head to cool the shutter box

Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 08-22-2003, 04:35 AM:

Did someone somewhere say that the XLs can be equippend with an air turbine like the Centurys? We have water cooling, but I was impressed with the difference the air turbine addition on our Century SAWs has made keeping the gate area cool. I may want to add the same to the XLs, if it can be done easily.

Frank

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 08-22-2003, 09:20 AM:

Heat:

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/pytlak/fall97.shtml

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/pytlak/winter97.shtml

Remember, the heat (infrared) energy removed by the heat filter / cold mirror needs to go somewhere. Whatever is being used as the "heatsink" should be well vented to keep it cool. If the dichroic coating is on a metal mirror, the mirror itself is the heatsink.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-22-2003, 10:21 AM:

Yes, Strong makes a retrofit kit "Bug Impaction Blower Kit" that screws right on over the wire connection cover in the shutter housing. Far as I know its also pretty inexpensive. Any X-L running 3KW or over should have one installed so the machine does not turn into a molten blob of alumnium.

Don;t know why anyone would want to add extra air cooling to a Century. They have about the best water cooling of any U.S. built projector.
Mark