Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Robbins & Myers Motor Question

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Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 09-06-2003, 04:29 PM:

I need to remove the flywheel from a R&M motor. The motor is off a RCA 9030. The flywheel end of the motor shaft is treaded and a locknut secures the flywheel to the shaft. The locknut came off (left hand thread) but the flywheel is still on there tight.

Here's the question, is the flywheel theaded on or is it a simple press fit? I can't tell just by looking. I don't want to take a puller to it without knowing. There are no set screws or other visible locks, just the big threaded nut on the shaft.

Any secrets to getting these off? The motor needs new bearings.

Posted by Sam Hunter (Member # 1119) on 09-06-2003, 06:32 PM:

If it has a keyway on the shaft then its pressed on, kinda like on top of your average briggs and stratten flywheel. I have never pulled one but you may have to rent or buy a pulley puller.

Posted by Konrad Schiecke (Member # 393) on 09-06-2003, 07:27 PM:

Pete: The flywheel is not threaded but tapered. I get these off by getting two short 2X4's and then resting the motor flywheel on each side of the 2X4's. They need to be longer than the length of a motor. you then get a center punch on the end of the shaft and hit it. The motor will break loose and fall down. Make sure that it falls SAFELY. I have done this sucessfully on over several dozen RCA soundheads. Good luck
Konrad Schiecke

Posted by Jon Miller (Member # 163) on 09-06-2003, 08:24 PM:

The best and safest approach is, as Sam suggested, obtain a pulley (or jaw) puller. One inexpensive (and well-worn) version looks like this...

I used this on the flywheel of the motor of my 9030 and it made the job especially easy. You can rent or buy pullers such as this one at auto parts stores like NAPA, AutoZone, or Pep Boys.

Good luck! [thumbsup]

Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 09-10-2003, 08:38 PM:

Thanks for the info guys. The shaft under the flywheel is indeed a shallow taper without any keyway. I spent all of $16 to buy a commericial looking 8" gear puller. Worked great. I also had to use it to remove the old bearings. The local Bearings-Are-Us had the replacement parts in stock. The new bearings were pressed on and it works just like new.

The right tool only cost $16. I would only use the 2x4 method as a last resort. I'm a believer in the right tool for the right job.

Posted by Sam Hunter (Member # 1119) on 09-10-2003, 08:40 PM:

Great to hear you had success Pete.
Glad us little people could help.

Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 09-10-2003, 08:59 PM:

Pete, check the starter switch carefully. Make sure it is good. Bad news is, as far as I know, the starter switches are no longer available.

Robbins & Myers is still in business, but their product line has changed drastically.

Posted by Jon Miller (Member # 163) on 09-11-2003, 01:13 AM:

Glad to hear the puller did the trick, Pete.

Regarding the starter switch...if you find a motor supply house (if there are any out on Long Island), you might get lucky. About a decade ago, I needed a starter switch for the ancient GE motor in an old Goldberg rewinder. I happened upon a motor store in one of the seedier parts of San Diego which not only had a new-old-stock switch, they gave it to me. Who knows, maybe it was gathering dust on the shelf and they were happy to find someone who actually wanted one. [Smile]

Posted by Sam Hunter (Member # 1119) on 09-11-2003, 10:49 AM:

Or if it aint broke dont fix it.

Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 09-11-2003, 07:50 PM:

The start switch was replaced at least once and is still in good shape. It only required a cleaning. The motor is now re-assembled and runs nice and quiet.

All that's left is to finish assembling the rest of the 9030 that I've been rebuilding. It looks almost new with it's new paint job. When that's done I can start rebuilding the second 9030. Is this fun or what? [Big Grin]