Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Simplex 35 PR-1014 Film Path Questions

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Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 10-15-2003, 03:47 PM:

I’ve been cleaning up a pair of Simplex 35 PR-1014 heads and a few questions have come up. The book (from the manuals section here) describes adjustments to the gate and trap, but leaves many things unanswered.

There is no clear “point of reference” regarding the position of the film in the trap. Am I right in assuming the film path should be centered on the bands? I believe that would make for the best stability and least wear. The film is slightly wider than the distance between the outer edges of the bands so the guide rollers can work. The intermittent sprocket position is adjustable and the lateral guide rollers are adjustable, but the book doesn’t mention the film position on the bands. I don’t have a piece of steel alignment “film” but it looks OK with regular film.

The aperture plate left-right position is not adjustable unless you file a little off the end that hits the stop. I have a couple of new un-filed 1:85 plates (G-2306) and they line up pretty close to the lines on a loop of RP-40 (1995 vintage), but it’s not quite perfect. The aperture cutout measures correctly within a couple thousandths but I have no reference as to where it should be positioned on the plate. I’ve heard stories that plates from the manufacturer do vary from batch to batch. Anyone have information as to where the opening should be on the plates? Should they be trusted?

I’ve also found a few things assembled wrong. The intermittent shoe was in upside down for one. The manual says it’s edge should be aligned with the edge of the intermittent sprocket, then locked in position with the mounting screw. Both of the ones I have don’t “lock” and allow the shoe to slide side to side quite a bit. Everything is correct according to the parts books. What’s wrong here?

What I’m getting at, is there a starting point of reference that film position in the trap is adjusted from? If so, it’s not clear from the manuals. I don't want to be cutting up plates if the position of the film in the gate is wrong to begin with.

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 10-15-2003, 04:03 PM:

You can get aperture plates with a pinhole in the center. That helps you line everything up as you can project the test film and then see if the center markings on the test film are visible through the hole.

Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 10-15-2003, 06:51 PM:

I hold here in my hand a brand new, genuine G-2475 (#52-20005) "pinhole" aperture plate drop-shipped directly from Strong. More like a bullet hole than a pin hole.

But guess where they put the hole. Dead center between the sprocket holes, NOT in the center of the image frame! Fine if you intend to run silent films but otherwise useless, in my opinion. At least it was only $10 and I can file it out and use it as a regular plate. [Mad]

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 10-16-2003, 12:55 AM:

Ooops! I checked with my cinema dealer and found that the "pinhole" aperture plate in the parts catalog is indeed like you described it.
Apparently Strong don`t offer a true pinhole plate with the hole in the middle of the sound film frame.
That`s a shame. They are enormously helpful for purposes like yours.
I am not a huge fan of the traditional string method but use Greg Mueller`s Align-O-Tron instead. It also gives you insight into the position of the film in the gate as you can thread the test film and then project the laser beam through it to see if the film is centered in the gate.