This is topic Lens Change Strips in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Chris Byrne (Member # 1563) on 12-20-2003, 05:17 PM:
 
I acquired this stock from an independent operator and have found that it is ideal 'black out' for lens change strip. Does anyone know what type of stock it is?

The only downfall of using it, is that the brown side (which we use as emulsion) can develop a bit of cling and peeling splices cleanly can be like pulling teeth.


 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 12-20-2003, 05:22 PM:
 
It's magnetic fullcoat. There are different variations of it. Some are better than others for this purpose. I have been using the higher quality stuff for a few years now and have been very pleased. The only downside is that there are no frameline markings. Recently I have been putting a soundtrack line and frameline marks on rolls of this for theaters I supply. A few mainstream dealers have expressed interest in carrying it for their customers, so I may make it a public product if the demand is indeed there. It can take a beating to the tune of driving around with a strip of it attached to the rear bumper of your car without showing a scratch and is cheaper than the traditional black leader. Plus as you have already noticed, it is truly opaque.

(You probably have some of the cheaper stock, as splice peeling and cling is not an issue with the stock I have been marking.)
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-20-2003, 06:02 PM:
 
It is also how I hone down gate parts as well as the oxide is very abrassive
 

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Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 12-20-2003, 09:54 PM:
 
I don't peel the splices. I just drop a frame each time.
 

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Posted by Dean Kollet (Member # 1789) on 12-20-2003, 11:51 PM:
 

quote:

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I don't peel the splices. I just drop a frame each time.

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quote:

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Whoooow, drop a frame each time?!!!! So you loose one frame every time you're assembling and resembling the copy?!

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We are not talking about the actual movie. We're talking about the slug film that is used to help disguise (and cue) a lens change. I don't keep those in service forever so it isn't a big deal to shorten them by a frame each time...actually, TWO frames are removed each time (one at each end).

I don't usually have to re-use movie preview trailers but those get the axe too. No peeling for those.

I will attempt to peel off splicing tape if I receive a used print but sometimes that frame doesn't look too good after all the bending and peeling. In those cases, yes, that frame goes bye-bye. Loosing (or keeping) a single frame is not high on my list of concerns.
 

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Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 12-21-2003, 11:56 AM:
 
I used to use something similur to that except it was not brown but gray on both sides. It was called fiesta film. I din't like it because there were no frame lines and the film would break easily.
 

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Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 12-21-2003, 12:25 PM:
 
Fiesta is junk.

It is thick 'n' stretchy and it also tears easily. Running it through a projector will cause a malfunction.

I have a little bit left at one location and we only use it for platter tail wraps.
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-21-2003, 01:06 PM:
 
All current 35mm magstock is on polyester based stock in various thickness
FPC is one of the main suppliers as is agfa
Racal Zonal used to be one of the best suppliers
Older magstock and fiesta leader was on accetate film

As for chopping frames even a few is "film done wrong"
 

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Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 12-21-2003, 01:34 PM:
 
I think the people who talked about chopping frames were referring to removing frames from their black leader (magfilm or otherwise), not from features or trailers or any other actual film.

When Brad first suggested using magfilm as black leader, I bought a 1000' roll of "MPC" brand stock (not to be confused with "FPC," which is apparently better). After peeling and replacing tape splices on it a few times, the oxide comes off, which looks like a scratched frame of black leader on screen. When this happens, I'll make a new cut.

Brad's absolutely correct about magfilm, BTW. It's the best black leader available.
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-21-2003, 01:54 PM:
 
One other cautionary note re magstock it will absorb lamphouse head and can blister and buckle if there is two much of a hotspot in very odd ways
 

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Posted by Jeff Skallan (Member # 891) on 12-21-2003, 02:44 PM:
 
I agree with everything Brad said about mag full coat being indestructible. I mainly use it as a spacer just after the leader for our curtain rise at startup. I've been running the same roll day in and day out for over 9 years, and it's still like new. Quality stuff!
 

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Posted by Ken McFall (Member # 845) on 12-21-2003, 03:16 PM:
 
Jack Roe, and others, supply a high density, Black one side, white the other, spacing that is ideal for hiding turret turns etc. I use it for all my lacing and interlock leaders. It lasts a very long time, so when used with blue framed mylar lasts for upwards of a year or more.

I've had some mag stock but it's not always the same stuff supplied each time and can be a real sod to peal. The Black/White stuff peels very easy.
 

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Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 12-21-2003, 03:45 PM:
 

quote:

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As for chopping frames even a few is "film done wrong"

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As is projecting *any* frame that looks like shit just for the sake of "showing every frame" which is a little pretentious, IMHO.

Let's bury the hatchet, Gordon. This grudge is getting old.
 

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Posted by Ken McFall (Member # 845) on 12-21-2003, 04:06 PM:
 
I always allow some latitude in my leaders and titles. After a few peels you MUST cut that frame off.

When I insert a trailer I leave as much blanke as I can. When I remove it I break the join. Then when using it again I cut the old join off.

As for breaking down a print. I leave one frame on the leadres as ID. When I return a print I break the join, don't peel it. Attach it to the leaders with taoe on one side. That way if the next theatre decides to chop off the frame then at least its still only one frame that's lost. I figure that either way the next theatre is going to chop off a frame so let them chop off the frame with my old tape on it.

You can only go so far with the 'Don't cut' chant. That goes for in-house material and actual features. We live and work in the real world after all.
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 12-21-2003, 04:07 PM:
 
I can't believe I am reading this. Just because Polona Kuzman skimmed the thread instead of carefuly reading what was said before posting, now everyone else who is guilty of skimming is jumping on that bandwagon.

This discussion is about cutting a frame of BLACK LEADER from a lens change slug or threading leader! Nobody is advocating cutting any frames from the movie.
 

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Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 12-21-2003, 08:11 PM:
 
For what it's worth, on our datestrips, we splice in ~3 frames of black on either end, to save the wear and tear of splicing from the datestrip itself. Probably not worth it for fullcoat mag lenschange slugs, but worth mentioning.

--jhawk
 

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Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 12-21-2003, 08:15 PM:
 
John -- I do that with our policy trailer and the ad packs.
 

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Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 12-22-2003, 01:38 PM:
 
Here's are links to Kodak subsidiary FPC, who supply full-coat and leaders, as well as other supplies:

http://www.fpchollywood.com/

http://www.fpchollywood.com/film-leaders-editorial-leaders.html (editorial leaders)

http://www.fpchollywood.com/magnetic-film-fullcoat-5-mil-.html (mag film)
 

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