Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Westar SH 1020 Sound Head

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Posted by Ian Bailey (Member # 1752) on 01-19-2004, 08:00 PM:

I have 2 Westar SH 1020 sound heads,am I right in assuming that this is a rebuilt Simplex SH 1000 sound head(there is no manuals listed for a Simplex SH 1020 sound head)
One difference between the Westar and the Simplex is there is no sight glass for the oil level.From what I can gather the boys have been filling the Sound head with 90 weight gear oil to the top of the oil filler petcock for years.The Simplex SH 1000 manual states SAE #40 oil(1-1/2 ounces)to the red line on the sight glass.
To drain the oil do you just undo the bolt at the bottom of the filler petcock?
Is the Simplex recommended oil Hydraulic Oil or SAE#40 gear oil?
Do I just put in 1-1/2 ounces(how many millilitres is that?)
Would the sight glass be a retrofit to the Westar?
I've tried emailing Strong but all my emails have returned undeliverable due to their mailbox being full or something stupid like that.
I also need to order some parts from Strong anyone know who I need to contact or can I only get them through a local service dealer?

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-19-2004, 08:17 PM:

Ian,
Many people use 90 weight in those gear boxes. I think it may actually extend the life of the bronze gears in there but I've never used it myself so can't relate any actual experience there.

One thing you can be assured of is that if you over fill that gear box some of the gear lube will seep out past the lower shaft bearing and bearing reatainer. Thats one way you'll know when its full!! Have rags handy to clean up any excess.

The SH-1000 was probably the best large production run sound reproducer ever made.

Mark @ CLACO

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 01-19-2004, 08:28 PM:

Simplex did indeed have an SH-1020.

I think it was the last or nearly the last version. By that time, they gave up on the drive-in versus indoor distinction. All of them came with the single exciter lamp holder and all had the spring to keep the door open when pointing up (drive-in). Somewhere, I have the SH-1020 manual.

As to gear oil...there is too thick (won't drain right) and too thin (won't cling to the gears). Remember, the upper gear only gets lubed when the oil clings to the lower gear, then the pinion and finally makes it to the upper gear. 40-wt sounds like a good minimum. Like some others, we have come up with a special blend.

Steve

Posted by Ian Bailey (Member # 1752) on 01-19-2004, 09:07 PM:

Steve,I have seen a demonstation of a gear oil additive in one of our local REPCO automotive parts distributors.It has two separate clear perspex cases and there are three meshed gears in each case which can be driven by a handle at the base.One has the additive and one doesn't.When you turn the handle you can see how the oil clings to the gears.The difference in the amount of oil on the gears with the additive is amazing.This stuff really does make the oil stick like shit to a blanket!!!!!!
I'd still like to know if I can order parts direct from Strong and how I contact them(if anyone can help)

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-19-2004, 11:40 PM:

Actually to get the best prices some parts need to come from Strong and some from Wolk. For instance Wolk's bronze gears are less than half the price of those from Strong and Wolks gears are ISO 9001 certified. Other parts such as lateral guide parts are best to get from Strong, but Wolk os good too. The 5 star lateral guide assy is pretty much the same as its always been way back to the late 30's. Sprockets should come from either Wolk or LaVezzi. For purchasing any of this stuff its probably best to go through a U.S. dealer that is willing to handle overseas orders if your local dealer, assuming there is one, isn't willing to do the ordering for you.

Mark @ CLACO

Posted by Ian Bailey (Member # 1752) on 01-20-2004, 01:22 AM:

Thanks Mark [thumbsup]

Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 01-20-2004, 01:34 AM:

Just an aside, having been through the ISO 9001 certification process a few times, it really is more of a paperwork process and doesn't always have a bearing on the quality of a product, especially in specialized industries.

Not saying that this is necessarily the case here, but I often think people overlook this. Just my 2 cents.

Posted by Stan Gunn (Member # 554) on 01-20-2004, 03:46 AM:

Ian
The oil in the perspex case is Tru Blue oil additive,
care must be used in the selection of oil, as to use 90 hypoid diff oil is a big NO NO. As the additives in hypoy oil will eat the bronze gears.

A mix of 1 litre sae 40 mineral oil to 1/3 litre tru blue oil additive will reduce wear to near nill and not cause any damage. [Big Grin]

Regards
Stan Gunn.

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 01-20-2004, 07:12 AM:

Note...that LaVezzi is in the bronze gear game too. I think Wolk is the only one that is doing 1800 RPM gears though.

Steve

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-20-2004, 07:45 AM:

Actually Steve you need to compare a Wolk and a LaVezzi gear sometime. The Wolk gear is far superior.
Mark @ CLACO

Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 01-20-2004, 09:14 AM:

Daryl is right about ISO9000 being a paperwork process; it really only assures that whatever a company says it will do, it does. If a company decides to make something cheap, that's OK, so long as they do it the way they said they would. But it does lead to "accountablity" so the right people get blamed for problems, which I think make people do a better job.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-20-2004, 09:38 AM:

One thing to watch with broonze/brass gears is there are many different grades of broonze the most durable are ones made from phosphorus broonze which tend not to turn into gold paint without warning
RCA original soundhead gears were brass and the OEM one were always better
As to the oil If it is a warm enviroment I use SAE50 and up in the north here SAE40
To thick of oil will induce unnecassary drag on the motor when cold

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 01-20-2004, 03:28 PM:

ISO 9000 standards principles:

ISO

quote:
This document introduces the eight quality management principles on which the quality management system standards of the revised ISO 9000:2000 series are based. These principles can be used by senior management as a framework to guide their organizations towards improved performance. The principles are derived from the collective experience and knowledge of the international experts who participate in ISO Technical Committee ISO/TC 176, Quality management and quality assurance, which is responsible for developing and maintaining the ISO 9000 standards.

The eight quality management principles are defined in ISO 9000:2000, Quality management systems Fundamentals and vocabulary, and in ISO 9004:2000, Quality management systems Guidelines for performance improvements.

This document gives the standardized descriptions of the principles as they appear in ISO 9000:2000 and ISO 9004:2000. In addition, it provides examples of the benefits derived from their use and of actions that managers typically take in applying the principles to improve their organizations' performance.

Principle 1 Customer focus
Principle 2 Leadership
Principle 3 Involvement of people
Principle 4 Process approach
Principle 5 System approach to management
Principle 6 Continual improvement
Principle 7 Factual approach to decision making
Principle 8 Mutually beneficial supplier relationships
The next step

Kodak is ISO 9001 : 2000 Certified at almost all its facilities:

Kodak ISO 9001 Certification

Posted by Jeff Stricker (Member # 224) on 01-21-2004, 06:00 AM:

I've also been through the ISO process...as far as I'm concerned it's just a paperwork nightmare, with no apparent relationship to the quality or integrity of the product being manufactured. [thumbsdown]

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 01-21-2004, 07:16 AM:

As I understand it, ISO 9001 is certifying the quality PROCESS, not the quality itself. The idea is to be sure certified companies have the necessary procedures in place to assure quality.

Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 01-21-2004, 01:40 PM:

Does that mean I can certify my 1.01 person business?

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-21-2004, 01:43 PM:

Yes just be carefull of what you get certified for and watch out for their representatives with the white suits [Big Grin]

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-21-2004, 07:58 PM:

Hey, after the certification he WILL be glad to see the men in the white suits [uhoh]

!

Mark