Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Ballantyne Pro 35

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Posted by Jeff Eisentraut (Member # 1121) on 01-21-2004, 08:57 AM:

Hello...I have a ballantyne Pro 35 that is shaky and after reading archived posts, have determined it needs intermittent service. I am about 1 hour northeast of St.Louis and need a tech to help. Any suggestions?

Posted by Jeremy Fuentes (Member # 2135) on 01-21-2004, 09:55 AM:

Have you tried using the manual here on Film-Tech. I had a problem with shutter ghosting a few weeks ago on the same projector that you have, and the manual was very easy to follow.

Posted by Sam D. Chavez (Member # 1841) on 01-21-2004, 10:17 AM:

Picture jump in this projector usually boil down to the framing bushing that is the bane of this projector's existence. Pretty easy to change but not cheap.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-21-2004, 07:47 PM:

Sam is right! 99 times out of 100 its the intermittent coupler thats bad. This is an assembly with a small helically spliined plastic bobbin inside thats located between the end of the starwheel shaft and the outboard intermittent(where the sprocket is) arm. When you move the framer this coupling assy slides back and forth on the helically spleened ends of both the intermittents starwheel and the intermittent sprocket shaft. Doing so causes the intermittent sprocket to rotate in relation to the fixed radius of the starwheel. Its only necessary to remove the outboard arm to replace this coupling assy. If this is an older machine it can be a royal pain to get the new plastic coupler started on the end of the flat spleened shafts...be careful! As long as this bounce problem has not gone on too lomg and while you have this all apart you should also replace the outer ball bearing on the intermittent sprocket arm as well. This is an ABEC 7 Barden bearing that is somewhat failure prone. Also carefully examine the end of the sprocket shaft to be sure that its not mushroomed at all. Any mushrooming at all, which sometimes is indicated by not being able to pull the sprocket shaft back through the arms bushings itself means its also time for a new shaft. Don't force anything! With these parts not being hardened steel the mushrooming of this shaft is common on a projector thats been bouncing for a while.

CLACO and other dealers here offer these bushings on a repair/exchange basis for alot lower price. The plastic bobbin and bearings inside the assy. are relatively inexpensive parts, but if you purchase the entire assy as new expect it to be at least several hundred dollars. A repair/Exchange unit should be about 1/2 to 2/3 the price of an entire new assy. If you are EXTREMELY mechanically competant you can rebuild the assy. yourself. Also keep in mind that the parts in these intermnittents are not made of hardened steel as most are. This aspect and the sizing of the starwheel of these movements was patterned after the Brrenkert intermittent whilst the coupling assy and helically spleened ends of the star and sprocket shaft were patterned after the Norelco FP-20...a projector that Ballantyne used to distribute in the U.S. before the Pro 35 existed.

Mark @ CLACO
1212 South State St
Salt LAke City, UT.
84110
801-355-1250

P.S. All this above is assumming that you've attempted to adjust the gate tension and that no setting will alleviate the bounce at all.

Posted by Dan Lyons (Member # 1454) on 01-22-2004, 01:16 AM:

Put some rags on the floor when you start on this project, oil will be flying all over the place!

You can get that little outboard bearing from a bearing supply for a few dollars, don't pay the huge amount that Strong wants to sell it for.

Danny

Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 01-22-2004, 02:32 AM:

and don't over tighten the outboard bearing adjustment. I have seen pro 35 projectors were the bearing adjustment was so tight one had to use a pair of pliers to get a grip on it to move it. Yes the locking allen set screw was loosened. After removing that outboard assembly to replace the bearing I found that it was disintegrated. Once replaced all you want to do is adjust it till the picture stops jumping and it is running with minimal vibration. Then tighten the set screw and leave it alone. This is one machine were welding the framing knob in place is a good thing. Of course you know what that means.... [Smile]

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-22-2004, 09:29 AM:

Remember that there are 2 gate tension adjustments the fine which are the ones on the trap door and there is a course which is a slot screw near the door closure pivot

Posted by Don Sneed (Member # 955) on 01-22-2004, 12:25 PM:

Yes everyone is right, I use to hate these machines until I found out how much money I can make by repairing them...Now I Love Em [thumbsup]

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-22-2004, 02:02 PM:

Actually if not abused I have many in daily service that just do that run every day with out a hicup
If abused then that is a different story

Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 01-22-2004, 11:34 PM:

I am agreement with the rest of the comments. To me, it sounds like the framing coupler is shot. While you are at it, several things come to mind:

1. See how worn out the spline shaft is on the intermittent movement. I have seen (especially on the older ones) that a new coupler does not have a nice snug fit on the spline shaft. This also holds true to the sprocket shaft.

2. Replace the outboard bearing. The are expensive, but well worth the investment.

3. If the bearing adjustment was as tight as you described,the stop screw adjustment my be worn excessively, and might need adjustment if it has not already been ruined.

4. When the machine is running, place your finger in the outboard bearing arm. If you feel a throbbing of 24 PPS, you have problems. Chances are, the bearing is shot along with the coupler.

When you feel it, it should be no throbbing whatsoever if the parts are in good shape.

Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 01-23-2004, 12:16 AM:

(sorry if I missed this... but)

When re-installing, be sure you loosen that outboard bearing thumbscrew before you tighten down the sprocket assembly! Running that screw in is one of the last steps you make before moving on to shutter timing & putting the cover plates & knobs back on.

Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 01-23-2004, 12:20 AM:

Definately take Jack's advice. [Smile]

Posted by Jeff Eisentraut (Member # 1121) on 01-23-2004, 08:06 AM:

Update... On Wednesday I spoke with a retired tech who apparently used to work on my equipment before my time. He told me to look around the booth for a spare coupler. He thought they kept a spare in the old days. Sure enough I found one and immediately went to work. Had a rough time getting the coupler back on the intermittent star shaft without using too much force and ruining it. Its now on and running nice and snug. Much quieter. There is still a small almost undetectable movement on the screen that might be coming from the outboard bearing. On Mark's advise I took it off to look at it and it looks bad. Today I will try to find one at a bearing supply house.
Much thanks to all for the great advise. Film-tech ROCKS!

Posted by Dan Lyons (Member # 1454) on 01-23-2004, 06:17 PM:

I got my outboard bearing from Johnson's Bearing, the ABEC 7 Barden.
The bearing cost less than $10, if you buy from Strong, they'll sell you the same thing for about $80!
Shop around [Wink]

Danny