Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: simplex PR 1060 pressure pads..

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Posted by Kyle Spillane (Member # 2152) on 03-04-2004, 03:48 AM:

Hey all,

I am in the process of changing the pressure pads (tension bands) in the projectors of the theater I work at. We have Simplex 35 PR1060 projectors. Sadly, these bands haven't been changed in quite a while, most of the tension knobs are up on 4 or 5, luckily there hasn't been much jittering. If you haven't guessed by now I am having a heck of a time getting the screws that hold the pads to the trap unscrewed. I know they are stuck because they haven't been changed in so long. I am wondering if you have any advice to help make this go a little faster.

Things I have tried include: Multiple screwdivers (of differing sizes), XeKote, Alcohol, Elbow grease, and WD-40 (in small amounts). I have tried when the traps are cool and hot (ouch).

Any ideas?

Posted by Chris Hipp (Member # 1788) on 03-04-2004, 08:56 AM:

When all else fails, drill through the screws. Of course this should be done only as a last resort. I have had to do it a few times.

Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 03-04-2004, 09:07 AM:

When you do finally get them off, you might consider replacing them with allen-cap screws to make it easier next time.

Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 03-04-2004, 12:18 PM:

Heat them that will help burn out any gook that might be freezing them up. I had this problem and heating them helped loosen them up. If yo have stripped the heads out it may be more difficult to do this since there is nothing to bite into with the screw driver. Fortunatly I didn't run into a lot of problems with that.

Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 03-04-2004, 06:38 PM:

Have you tried a screw extractor?

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-04-2004, 10:29 PM:

These are either 4/40 or 6/32 screws..can't remember which. Generally I use a set of Greenlee reverse helix drill bits for really stubborn screws like yours. When you run the drill in reverse using one of these bits the stuck screw will usually come spinning out in a big hurry. Be sure you have new screws on hand BEFORE you drill em out. I reccomend using Stainless Steel Allen Head cap screws or the original screws from Strong which are plated brass.

As with all things of this nature use caution, and something to actually hold the trap such as a vise with soft wood on both sides of the trap. Do not overtighten the vise! Also do not use a co-worker to hold the trap. This was recently attempted by a couple of projectionists here in SLC and one ended up in the emergency room getting stitched back together(Hi Mike [uhoh]

)!

Also wear safety glasses [eyes]

!

Mark @ CLACO

P.S. Throw that can of WD-40 in the trash and replace it with some real penetrating oil of some sort. WD-40 = junk.

Posted by Rick Long (Member # 213) on 03-06-2004, 12:43 AM:

"These are either 4/40 or 6/32 screws..can't remember which."

Yeah, I wish.

These phuckers are 2-56 and the ones at the bottom of the gate seize tighter than hell.

You just try drilling out these sonsabitches, the threaded hole does not go through the bottom of the gate. Look at one, you'll see what I mean.

Perhaps a bit of lubri-plate on the screw before re-inserting would help make it easier for the next change. (It worked on drive-in speaker screws after being exposed to the weather for a year or so.)

I like John's idea of allen-headed hardened screws as a replacement.

Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 05-03-2008, 12:32 AM:

It has been 1518 days since the last post.

Posted by Fred Tucker (Member # 4482) on 05-03-2008, 12:32 AM:

COuld someone else verify that the tension strap screws are #2-56? I need to replace my bands and really like the idea of allen head screws, so I figured why not but need to make sure before I start. Thanks

P.S. was thinking 3/8" length would be right... any other suggestions

Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 05-03-2008, 02:44 AM:

quote: Fred Tucker
COuld someone else verify that the tension strap screws are #2-56? I need to replace my bands and really like the idea of allen head screws, so I figured why not but need to make sure before I start. Thanks

Can't remember the thread size, but I took my trap to ACE with me to make sure I got the right screws. Also, if you replace them with allen (hex) screws be sure the heads are shallow enough to allow the intermittent to be able to fully rotate clockwise without hitting the bottom set of screws.

Also, for those that have the factory slot screws and they become seized. Take a small file and file 2 parallel straight edges on the head of the screw and then simply take a pair of pliers to break them loose. No drilling required. Worked for me every time.

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 05-03-2008, 10:51 PM:

Part number H-2519 - Strap Retaining Screw, 2-56 x 3/16" (41-51002; 4 req'd.)

Posted by Fred Tucker (Member # 4482) on 05-04-2008, 07:09 PM:

THanks Tim....

For those of whose local hardware store is Home Depot, I found a supplier online. www.fastener-express.com. I could not find anyone else who had stainless screws that short.

Posted by Charles Caron (Member # 3247) on 05-05-2008, 01:19 PM:

Most of the weird hardware available in this part of the galaxy.... Mcmaster Carr, part# 92196a076. link

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 05-05-2008, 05:06 PM:

Since that's a socket head screw... has anyone tested this to make sure they don't interfere with anything?

Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 05-05-2008, 05:56 PM:

As I mentioned above, just have to make sure the head is shallow enough to allow the intermittent assembly to rotate fully clockwise without hitting the screw heads. Found this out the hard way when I had a mis-splice go through and didn't have the clearance for the intermittent to clear the screw heads to put it in frame.

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 05-05-2008, 06:16 PM:

Yes, I saw your post, Jeremy. Just wondering how much the head depth could vary between mfgrs. in a screw that small. If the McMaster-Carr's work fine, for example, then I'll start using them for this application.

Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 05-05-2008, 08:25 PM:

I used a feeler gauge and measured the closest distance the intermittent passes beneath the gatebands at about .074". So I would definitely say that the head height of .086" is not going to work. [Frown]

Consequently a rough measurement of the factory screw heads is about .051" (using feeler gauges and "eyeballing it").

Posted by Charles Caron (Member # 3247) on 05-05-2008, 11:03 PM:

mcmaster pn.91792a076...slotted head, .053 head heighth