Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Strong/Raven Dimmer Module

This is topic Strong/Raven Dimmer Module in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by William T. Parr (Member # 677) on 07-01-2004, 12:51 PM:

Hi All,

I ordered a Strong SD2 Dimmer module through our distributor. We recieved a power module for the Strong SA type, also known as a Strong SD2E. I have written A strong represenative about this but have not heard back. What I am needing to know is this. Is there a way to make the SD2E module work in a Strong/Raven SD2 unit? if so, how? if not what is the correct Strong Part Number for the Strong/Raven power module? These would be be the same power modules used in the Strong SPA5 packages. Thanks for any help

Posted by Rick McCluney (Member # 642) on 07-02-2004, 11:08 PM:

Hey William,

Did you try just replacing the Triac? In my experience that is what usually goes out in the power module.

Rick

Posted by William T. Parr (Member # 677) on 07-02-2004, 11:22 PM:

Nope not yet as that was one of my questions to Strong was wether or not the triacs were interchangeable between the Eprad Built Modules and the Raven built ones.

Posted by Rick McCluney (Member # 642) on 07-03-2004, 08:03 PM:

There are manuals for both those dimmers in the manual section. Judging by the manuals they don't use the same type of triac. The triac for the Strong/Raven Dimmer is SC-160-D.

Rick

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-03-2004, 08:55 PM:

Most triacs are interchangable
The Raven was often A BTA 20/200 which was a 20 amp 200piv device
It is better off with a BTA40400 which is a 40 amp 400v
I use Teccor triacs as replacements
What is the symptons of the failure

Posted by Michael Elam (Member # 788) on 07-04-2004, 12:14 PM:

The CFS Dimmatic is the same exact module, the only difference
is the control board, if your lights are staying at full bright
change the triac, if your lights are flashing off and on during the movie change the control board and/or any external light adjustment pots. At the module look for 6vdc at the plus and minus terminations as you attemt to raise/lower the lights, if this is good then your problem is within the module. The most
common problems with these modules are....the triac and the
op ic coupler.

Posted by William T. Parr (Member # 677) on 07-04-2004, 06:14 PM:

Syptoms of the failure are the lights stay up full bright no matter what is going on. I have swapped the module with a known working on and the problem followed the Power Module. So It has the be a Power Module, Control Board or Triac Problem. Gordon, where do you buy your replacement triacs from and how much do the generally run?

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-04-2004, 06:38 PM:

With the power off disconnect the triac gate lead (it is the smaller wire) if the lights come on when powered up then the triac is shorted if they stay off then probably the optocoupler is bad (though the snubbing resistors can fail

Up here in canada I buy from Electrosonic Inc in willowdale they carry both Motorola and Teccor triacs

I believe that digikey and newark in the states carry them

Posted by William T. Parr (Member # 677) on 07-04-2004, 07:32 PM:

Gordon, Is there a specific teccor part number you use. I looked them up on Digigkey using the 40 Amp 400 V search ptions and it returned a page of 5 different triacs with different types of triac options. I will assume that since the Eprad has a Gated Triac that the Rave is either a Alteristor or Non Isoloated type.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-04-2004, 10:09 PM:

Almost every one uses a fastpac type triac now days I don't have the book with me but somehow q8035p rings a bell but it is a isolated case fast pac design

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-05-2004, 03:21 PM:

I got back to the shop and had a look at the triacs we used on the last order of dimmers we built and it is a Teccor 4040P (40amp 400PIV fastpac)

Not the polarity of the two power leads is important as a triac must fire in its correct quadrant to match the firing circuit.
If the dimmer missbehaves after changeing the triac (flickers doesn't fade with out a jump) reverse the two power connections