This is topic Rebuilding Strong Alpha Platter Motor in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Christopher Wehrman (Member # 806) on 07-16-2004, 11:13 AM:
Hello, I need to start rebuilding our pile of dead motors. I've replaced the burshes in some of them, but most motors i'm finding have bad contacts or shorted windings.
I saw in one of the threads here that you can use a grainger motor (Pt.# 2M262). However, i have never done this before. Is there someone who has indtructions on how to do this? Please let me know. You guys are awesome!! ![[thumbsup]](graemlins/thumbsup.gif)
Thanks
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-16-2004, 06:37 PM:
Actually about one out of every 20 to 25 motors might actually have a shorted winding. It is pretty rare and usually something else is amuk like a shorted doide. Its a good idea to turn the comutator down if it is even slightly worn. Worn comutators will wear out new brushes in a big hurry!! Also while its all apart new bearings should be installed. The whole procedure takes about an hour and parts are about 30.00 total. We rebuild about 15 a month on the average. If the motor cannot be repaired so its reliable then the Grainger motor(Amtek) is installed.
Mark @ CLACO
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 07-16-2004, 11:33 PM:
And don't forget connectors, too. I've seen a few with bad/broken connector pins both on the motor end of the cable and in the platter arm.
Christopher:
I have the instructions and step-by-step photos I can email you tomorrow late afternoon/evening when I get back as I will be gone from 6:30 am till I think around 4pm.
[ 07-17-2004, 12:46 AM: Message edited by: Ken Layton ]
Posted by Christopher Wehrman (Member # 806) on 07-17-2004, 03:26 PM:
Thanks Mark and Ken,
I checked the diodes and connectors, all are fine. The comutators do look black, some more wore than others.
I know my boss wouldn't mind spending 75$ for new Grainger motors. He has bought a couple of complete new asymblies but they do not time well with the older motrs evan with the extra 1/2 shaft installed.
I'd rather go the Grainger route to be safe. All these platter systems were bought used and we have been open for bout4 years now. Motors are starting to drop like flys!
Ken, that would be greate if you could e-mail me those instructions.
Thaks alot guys for your help,
Chris
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 07-17-2004, 11:37 PM:
Christopher:
You've got mail. ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 07-18-2004, 10:59 PM:
Ken, could you please e-mail those instructions also.
Thanks in advance
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 07-19-2004, 12:01 AM:
Stephen:
Need your email address to send the info to.
Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 07-19-2004, 12:17 AM:
Sorry I didn't realize my e-mail was blocked.Just updated my profile.
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 07-19-2004, 01:16 AM:
Stephen:
You have mail.
Posted by Christopher Wehrman (Member # 806) on 07-19-2004, 11:48 AM:
Thanks Ken.
I got the attachments, they help out a lot.
Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 08-02-2004, 12:28 PM:
Well I swapped a new grainger motor out with a bad one last week,
and it has been running perfectly over the weekend.
Once again thanks to film-tech!
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 08-02-2004, 05:54 PM:
Stephen:
How were my instructions and pictures? Were they helpful?
Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 08-02-2004, 10:51 PM:
Ken:
Your instructions were great.The only difference was that I had to
use a 10-20 tap but otherwise everything else was right on.
1 question though ,on the lead that hooks to the cover plate with the switch ,there is the rubber seal and the plastic washers, why do the have you mount it to the cover and then block it off like that.
If it makes contact what happens?
Also where can you get the rubber belts on the drive wheels Grainger didn't have them.
Thanks again Ken
Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 08-02-2004, 11:42 PM:
#10 threads (and thus taps) come in 10-24 (NC) and 10-32 (NF), but not 10-20...which do you mean?
--jhawk
(there are also weird #10 taps, but not 10-20. 10-40 (NS -- National Special), as well as 10-28, 10-36, 10-48, 10-56, and 10-64...but you'll never see them.)
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 08-03-2004, 12:44 AM:
The belts/tires are ordered from your local Strong/Potts dealer and the part number is shown in the platter parts manual.
That one motor lead connects to a diode that is mounted on an insulated piece of plastic L bracket. The diode must be insulated from the motor frame.
All the motors I have rebuilt have all had 10-24 threaded screws in them.
Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 08-03-2004, 02:51 AM:
as far as using the newer style motors on older platters, it can be done, you may have to adjust the variac's relationship to the dancer arm, however. Done it here, and it seems to work just fine.
Josh
Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 08-03-2004, 12:41 PM:
I had to borrow a tap set and it was the first time I had used one.
The part on the new motor for the screws to hold the plate in was to small so a had to use a smaller diameter.I think it was a 8-24 or maybe a 8-32.I was thinking smaller in my head when a wrote 10-20 that's why I mixed up the numbers.
In any event,I managed to get it in and running fine.
Ken thanks for the additional e-mail.
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 08-09-2007, 04:27 PM:
It has been 1101 days since the last post.
Posted by Peter Boicourt (Member # 4193) on 08-09-2007, 04:27 PM:
Hello,
If someone still has the instructions on how to rebuild an Alpha Motor, please forward them onto me. I have one that is down and I want to rebuild all three at once.
Thanks!
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 08-09-2007, 05:11 PM:
Pssssst. Take a look at the "Tips" section over to your left. You'll find them in there.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-09-2007, 07:19 PM:
I have been meaning to write up the procedure for this but just haven't had time. I am about 75% of the way done on writing up how to rebuild Strong Switchers.
At any rate they DO NOT always have to be replaced... They CAN USUALLY be rebuilt for alot less than a new motor at Graingers. The brushes and armature are available through Grainger and I reccomend you use rubber sealed bearings for longer life. The carbon dust has a bad habit of working into those shielded bearings. You will also neeed to have available the different size drive sleeves from either Potts or Strong. You will find that rebuilt motors have less torque. This is because of a change by the manufacturer in the armature.
Mark
Posted by Randy Bowden (Member # 587) on 08-10-2007, 02:03 PM:
Mark, I am definitely interested in your rebuild procedure. For the most part we just replace motor brushes or do the complete Grainger replacement. I am curious to know what size the bearings are as well as where to get additional replacement parts ie. diodes.
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 08-10-2007, 02:34 PM:
Almost any robust diode will work. Grainger has the armature (as Mark said) and the bearings. Even Potts is not too bad on small parts. They ARE convenient. (Strong & Potts are made by the same factory; parts are identical and are so labelled.) Louis
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-10-2007, 07:39 PM:
Randy,
I will get back to you on Monday either by phone or by IM with part numbers and the place to get them
Mark