This is topic Rebuiding Neutronic platter moter? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 08-02-2004, 10:56 PM:
I just finished rebuilding a stong/potts platter motor and i was wondering if there is anything you can do with a Neumade Neutronic motor.
I checked the brushes and cleaned the commutator but it still gets stuck after being on for awhile.
Any help would be great.
Posted by Kyle Watkins (Member # 986) on 08-02-2004, 11:06 PM:
As of rebuilding them nto that i know ya. Graniger sell that type of motor way less then when we got them form nuemade. Dont have the part number though. the motor coems without brakcets and plug on the end, but all the screws fit right in. we had very good luck with them.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-03-2004, 06:57 PM:
Best thing to do is replace the whole platter. It will eventually make you completely Neurotic!
Mark
Posted by Aaron Mehocic (Member # 15) on 08-03-2004, 09:12 PM:
We have a local motor shop that rebuilds ours on occasion. Our tech essentially repeated Mark's comment above and tried to get us to switch over to Speco 270's. Neumade motors are pieces of shit, however, and even though the platter system is easy to teach novice projectionists, its far from superior in my experiences.
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 01-21-2007, 01:26 PM:
It has been 900 days since the last post.
Posted by Cory Isemann (Member # 2517) on 01-21-2007, 01:26 PM:
The Grainger motor replacement is a Dayton 4Z140B motor. This motor is a perfect and fast solution.
HOWEVER. Most of our replacements, within a year or less of installation, have developed an annoying squeak. Does anyone else have these type of motors with the same problem? Any solution? I'm about to go nuts with all this squeaking.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-21-2007, 03:58 PM:
We rebuild alot of Neurotic motors. What happens is that from the motor running in a verticle position the carbon dust that is generated by normal wear of the brushes gets into the lower bearing. We use bearings with rubber seals so carbon dust can't get into them. The same is also very true of Christie AW-3 motors. I wonder if your Dayton Motors are now Chineese made like the rest of Dayton's Motors are. Not many people are buying them any longer as they have gotten to a point that they are really poor quality.
Any of these motors are an easy 1/2 hour to rebuild..... we cut the commutator if worn and install new bearings.
Mark
Posted by Ken Lackner (Member # 1002) on 01-21-2007, 05:05 PM:
Easy rebuild if you have what tools at your disposal??
I've never rebuilt any motor other than a Strong platter motor, but if it can be done I'd love to learn how.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-21-2007, 05:46 PM:
You need a small lathe with a tiny round nosed cutting tool ground for cutting copper, the finest garnet paper you can find, a hummer to check the armature for shorts after you are done cleaning it up. Some time I could post pictures of the steps in rebuilding a motor if anyone here is interested.
Mark
Posted by Adam Martin (Member # 641) on 01-21-2007, 07:18 PM:
If you want to work up the instructions, send them to me and Brad with the photos and one of us can post it as a Tips page in the warehouse.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-21-2007, 08:31 PM:
Next Christie or Neurotic motor that comes in I will get pics off to yous guys. Its pretty much at least a few motors a week through our shop. I just have to be around the shop and not on the road.
Mark
Posted by Kevin Raisler (Member # 1761) on 01-25-2007, 11:56 PM:
Burning question are potts motors rebuilt (use the same parts)as Monte's Strong Motor Rebuild in the tips Section?
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-26-2007, 08:24 AM:
One of our shop guys did rebuilds on 3 Potts motors yesterday. Sorry I was not there to get pics. Next time....
Mark
Posted by Ken Lackner (Member # 1002) on 04-15-2007, 08:09 AM:
Mark, did you ever get a chance to write up the rebuild procedure?
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-15-2007, 02:38 PM:
Not yet... I am in the process of setting up anopther lathe with a collett closer. We wore out our other lathe and parts are non-existant... some Swiss made thing. Now that I have a better digital camera and more flexible lathe I will get to writing this up... hopefully this week. I may show a Christie motor being done but the basics are all the same.
On Potts(and Strong) motors we just install a whole new armature for those armatures that are really worn bad. All the replacement parts for those motors are available thogh W.W. Grangers or directly from the motors manufacturer if you are able to buy parts in large quantities.
Mark
Mark
Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 04-15-2007, 05:11 PM:
Hey, Mark. You mean you don't have a tailstock camera mount? All the cool kids have one... ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
--jhawk
Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 04-15-2007, 05:14 PM:
Yea, the brushes for the 2M262 motors are the 1R234 - both from Grainger Wholesale.
..just follow the instruction on seating the brushes before using the motor (which the instructions for seating the brushes are on the back of the package blister for the brushes), or the motor won't be up to speed right at the beginning.
Trick I use if I have a motor that died and the com is jet black and needs to be burnished back to copper, it to take a drill (cordless is more handier), remove the drive tire wheel assembly to make the drill attachment much easier,take off the collar off the motor shaft, put the shaft in the chuck of the drill, and with brushes removed turn the drill on and take some fine emory cloth to burnish up the com back to copper.
It's a cheap way to lathe a com back to shine, but it works pretty good.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-15-2007, 06:37 PM:
