quote: Bill Langfield

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Do you not get my point of the dangers of striking up at 10 seconds before screen time?

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I guess not.
 

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Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 08-23-2004, 02:09 PM:
 
First, I assume your system is designed and installed properly(e.g., shielding, separate circuits and UPS for sound processors), to minimize any audible effect of the xenon ignition pulse in the sound. If not, it should be corrected.

I don't really think it is necessary to run the lamp all day if there is a long time between shows. General "rule of thumb" is that each lamp ignition decreases lamp life by about one hour, so if the time between shows/reels is less than an hour, the lamp should be left on, with the dowser closed (assuming you have a dowser that can take the heat load without warping or being damaged).

I agree with you that it is a good idea to strike the lamp more than just a few seconds before the film needs to be projected. At least a few minutes would allow better stabilization of the arc, and a bit of "breathing time" to remedy things if the lamp does not ignite.

More than that would even allow time for changing a lamp, but is probably an unnecessary waste of electricity.
 

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Posted by Bill Langfield (Member # 818) on 08-23-2004, 02:10 PM:
 
Jeremy,
Can you please EXPLAIN your POINT or what you don't understand?

That said, I just remembered another location with Vic5 'console' built in lamphouses that have no standby, OVERHEAT between shows, so the automation turns the lamp off after every show, and strikes it up, 10 seconds before the next show.

So I have just killed my own agument very quickly. Damn it.
And the kicker is, Im told the on/off lamps are lasting longer.

Oh no JOHN, now I'm in trouble.(Did'nt expect you to chime in) You missed most of my point too.
The automation just tries igntion ONCE, if the lamp is long in tooth it might not light.
This is all about striking-up 10 seconds before the FIRST show of the day, nothing to do with leaving them on all day or if there was an hour between sessions. Granted 30 minutes might be too much.
How about I meet you half way at 10 or 15 minutes?

But when you have projection room the length of a football field, I'd like to be comfortable that cinema 16 is fired up and ready to go, while I'm getting cinema 1 ready. I dont want hear over the 2-way that cinema 16 has not fired the Xenon and have run down there. (we had scooters, but they got banned)
 

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Posted by Stephen Furley (Member # 1277) on 08-23-2004, 03:05 PM:
 
I recently did some projection at a place with a pair of Kinotons. The lamps strike on the motor start, and there is no way to strike them earlier. This place is running changeovers, and the eight seconds the lamp has before the actual changeover is not long enough. The picture is noticably dimmer, and the colour is different, after a changeover. It seems to take about 30 seconds to one minute to reach maximum light output. These are small lamps, I don't know if large ones would take longer.

I think anywhere between two and five minutes is a reasonable time to strike the lamp. I can't see any point in doing it earlier. It's unlikely that you wouldn't be able to get a lamp going in that time, another than a lamp exploding, and in the unlikely event that happens, the show will be late starting. Striking the lamp 30 minutes early won't help you if something goes wrong after 29 minutes.
 

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Posted by Bill Gabel (Member # 1105) on 08-23-2004, 04:47 PM:
 
When we do premieres or double-system previews we always strike the lamp 15-20 minutes before the show. That's always been the rule of thumb from all the studio screens that I've worked on the lot or on the road at a theatre. I strike both of my lamps 15 minutes before the show. Striking them a few seconds or minutes would not work for me. I handle media and post-production screens all day.
 

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Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 08-23-2004, 05:51 PM:
 
I light'em up about a half hour before the first show and leave them on if the interval will be under about 45 minutes or so. Often they burn all day. But this is a screeening room (two projector changeover). Typically with a platter and automation the lamps strike with motor start. They can stabilize during the policy, etc. Really though, with good lamps and good bulbs for normal commercial purposes this system seems to work fine in most cases, with decent presentation and decent bulb life.
 

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Posted by David Favel (Member # 1125) on 08-23-2004, 06:24 PM:
 
We configured our automations not to strike.
We turn on 20 - 30 mins before the first show of the day. Just so if there is a problem, it can be fixed. Generally they are on 12 hours a day
 

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Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 08-23-2004, 06:37 PM:
 
you will find that most theaters (at least in the US) strike the lamp at motor start. Although I agree with giving the lamp a chance to stabilize, until lamps and consoles start coming with electric dowser closers, this will likely continue.

Also, isnt this a carry-over from the old days when you would let the arc settle for about two minutes to burn a crater into the positive carbon before the changeover?

Josh
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-23-2004, 07:34 PM:
 
If I was building a multiplex for myself the lamps would all be struck a half hour before the show and all of them would remain on all day. I would also have pneumatic dampers on all the lamphouses that would open with the motor start closure and then the C/O would do its thing after the normal time out. We do have a few capable customers that actually do follow this routine.

Better for the equipment, better for the lamps in the long haul.

Mark @ CLACO
 

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Posted by Stephen Jones (Member # 16) on 08-23-2004, 08:06 PM:
 
G'day Bill,

I strike the lamps 30min before the first session in that particular cinema and they stay on allday.It isnt a problem with Kinoton consols also same with Cinemecanicca consols.As you said you can change a lamp if you have to with out delaying a session and gives the lamp time to settle down.Had igniter board fail and found out by striking the lamp 30 min before the session, gave me time to get it running without delaying the session by to much.

Cheers,
Steve

 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-23-2004, 08:42 PM:
 
Again this is where the mighty CA21 comes in handy for platter multiplexes, as it can be configured to do anything you want it to do, even years after it was installed.

Personally, I have removed all of the electric dousers since about 2001. They are a pain (especially the Christie ones) and are just not needed in a platter booth. Instead I have a stretch of opaque black film at the end of each threading leader. The projectionist threads on the frameline leader, then when the show is started the motor runs until the start cue hits, where the xenon turns on (blasting onto the opaque film, so it looks to the audience like the douser is closed), then after a pre-programmed delay (currently 30 seconds) the non-sync fades out and the first green band hits the screen as the sound changes over. No dousers to jam, no arc stabilization issues, no problems...ever.

Bill, I think you will find that proper cooling will add more life to the xenon than any other factor. The sides and front of my lamphouses with proper cooling are just barely warmer than room temperature.
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 08-23-2004, 08:53 PM:
 
Hmmm....never had the changeover douser issue...

As to Kinoton lamphouses...all of the ones I install have the ability to have the lamps strike manually. The three ways I install them (customer desire): 1)completely manual strike with no projector control (this is for our typical for manual changeover booth). 2) extra switch with an "auto" and On position. 3) Extra switch with Auto/Off/On positions. We also give the option of the blowers to run all of the time or just when the lamp is lit + cool down.

I've done all of the above with either a single toggle or two toggles.

Steve
 

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Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 08-23-2004, 11:57 PM:
 
Our Kinoton lamphouses for the Barco DP50 are struck once 10 minutes or so before the first show, then left on for the rest of the day. However, these lamphouses have an ectra lamphouse douser. Which they need in any case since the DP50 does not have a mechanical douser.
 

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Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 08-24-2004, 01:40 AM:
 
I still use electric dousers, but Brad's description of his system is interesting.

I do not turn my lamps off during my business day. One time on, one time off... all manual. I turn my lamps on about 5 minutes before showtime, though I remember some early posts, where Steve Kraus notes that it can take quite a bit longer for color temperature to settle in.

Rather than working power to the lamp, my automation lamp terminals are connected to a motor on the hand douser for any emergency that might shut a show down... and at intermissions and the end of the night.
 

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Posted by Jeremy Fuentes (Member # 2135) on 08-24-2004, 05:56 AM:
 

quote: Bill Langfield

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Jeremy,
Can you please EXPLAIN your POINT or what you don't understand?

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quote: John Pytlak

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At least a few minutes would allow better stabilization of the arc, and a bit of "breathing time" to remedy things if the lamp does not ignite.

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Hmmm, what does this say about the reliability of xenons? I mean, if a xenon has been installed and has been running for days, weeks, months, do we still have a legitimate reason to worried that somehow they could magically not strike in the morning? Or is this just lingering paranoia from the early days when they would explode if you looked at them wrong? We don't have to worry that the projector motor won't start when we throw the switch, right? Or the amps won't go on when we power up the rack.

Then on the other hand, funny that you never heard anyone ever fret that their carbon arc wouldn't strike in the morning....heh heh.

Frank

I have seen the light.....and it's carbon arc!
 

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Posted by Andrew Jefferson (Member # 2565) on 08-24-2004, 05:22 PM:
 
We strike our Xenons 20mins before the first show, then they stay on all day (13hrs typical) BUT that's not 13hrs on full load, the automation backs the amps down from 140 down to about 50 amps in-between shows. When the lamphouse is on standby the hour meter doesnt count that time, only on full load.

We leave our douser open all day too, the zipper in the Cinemeccanica can handle 50amps ALL DAY and the lamphouse douser can handle 140amps ALL DAY.

When the proj is about to start on the last slide, the automation brings the lamp onto full current, then once the leader goes through the zipper opens on the first trailer.

I have had all sorts of problems with Xenons striking properly in the morning. Once I had to replace an Ignition unit in a Xebex Super, which i did in the last 29mins before the show, and i also had a bulb that just wouldn't strike, also fixed in the last 29mins.

If I had an automation system that was stiking my bulbs, id get rid of it, unless it could tell that the lamp wasn't struck and try again, or replace the bulb...

The 30min stiking rule seems EXTREMELY logical to me, but i guess if there's been some of you that have been letting your automation do it with no probs for years now, then so be it...
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-24-2004, 05:32 PM:
 
The CA21 can be configured to restrike or sound an alarm should the lamp fail. If you go so far as to buy the Neumade interface, you can even have it announce the problem over your radio.
 

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Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 08-24-2004, 06:51 PM:
 
Frank--I've never had an arc lamp fail to strike, but I have had a feed motor that refused to feed. Thankfully, I tried striking the arc about 20 minutes before the first show (on both machines!) and had time to swap feed assemblies (easy to do with Enarcs).

With xenons and manual booths, I do what John P. suggests, with the exception that I will strike the lamp(s) earlier if I am in an unfamiliar booth and/or for important shows.

In automated booths, I normally do whatever the automation is set up to do (usually strike lamp at motor start), except I'll strike the lamp early for super-important shows where I will be next to the machine (to open the hand douser) at show start.

Agreed with Stephen that the Kinoton method of powering the lamp with the motor switch is truly silly and impractical in a changeover house.
 

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Posted by Per Hauberg (Member # 529) on 08-24-2004, 07:29 PM:
 
Checking in good time before day's first show is fine, but otherwise, a minute to warm up and burn steady should be more more than enough. The Bulbs and the currant is expensive enough without letting the light on all day.

Locally, in my screen #1, I've always had trouble with the projector closest to the sound rack. Cinemec CX900 shoebox lamp makes too much noise by ignition, and seems to damage something in DA20 now and then. Therefore we never turn on Xenon with SRD on.

In screen two I've now been running a little over a year with my first Kinoton lamphouse and FP30D, which I was told as well by Herr Mueller of Kinoton as by Michael Schaffer here, I had to get used to after more than thirty years DP70 and partly Vic 9. One thing, I'll never get used to, and which disapponts me greatly, is that Kinoton delivers a lamphouse/projector without a manual dowser - ecspecially when the change-over dowser is unable to cover decently, resulting in showing the countdown with a bit of light - just watchable - but showing. To go against this not existing dowser, the lamp simply can't burn, if projector is not running. -That is, -if You want to make a break between preview and feature, off goes the lamp, to be ignited 20 sec's later, or if the shows are running more or less continously, still this turnoff/turnon every moment. That can not be good for the lamp. Otherwise, I certainly got used to the FP30 - and it's brillant picture quality - It will not be matched by any for another decade !

p.
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 08-24-2004, 08:11 PM:
 
Hey all you Kinoton users out there....the complaints you site are that of your installers and of those who order the equipment!!!!

Kinoton lamphouses may be ordered with manual or electric dousers and all of the ones I sell have em!

As to when the lamp strikes...again this is an installer issue. All of mine can strike or be turned off via a toggle switch and those with automations can also follow the motor, the "standard" way for Kinoton. This is not rocket science.

Kinoton America has a simple mod listed Here as KA #99-8. A competent tech and 5-minutes or so will have this "fix" complete. Note, for platter venues, the "factory" prewire suffices for most.

As to the douser it should completely block the aperture...the current douser can be adjusted as to how far it closes and to minimize bounce.

Steve
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-24-2004, 09:54 PM:
 
The Xebex system is designed to be left lit in standbye mode for long periods
Normally with vic 8's and xebex I wire the automation to leave the lamp lit on standbye and the dowser autoclose
 

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Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 08-24-2004, 10:08 PM:
 
OK... here's a question for you techs out there.

(disclaimer) I'm not interested in opinions regarding the wisdom of digging into the machinery. I am qualified to do so... it's all mine, and I accept the risk of my actions. (/disclaimer)

I have Strong switchers on all of my larger lamps (4kW and higher). Accordingly, the current on these supplies is adjusted with 10k pots.

Is there any particular reason that one couldn't insert a relay into the motor circuit... or the automation lamp contacts... that could be used to change the resistance of the control circuit (fixed resistor... another pot, whatever), so that the bulb would run at a reduced current during idle times? Any particular reason why the bulb would object? I suppose some kind of accomodation for relay failure might be in order, but otherwise, why not? During down times between shows, the bulb would still be on, but would not be blasting everything in front of it... and additional ignitions would be minimized.

(edit)... I just saw Andrew and Frank's posts... I guess I'm asking about doing something like what Andrew has... except with my switchers.
 

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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 08-24-2004, 10:10 PM:
 

quote: Andrew Jefferson

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the automation backs the amps down from 140 down to about 50 amps in-between shows.

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Wow. I was always under the impression that xenons needed to burn within a narrow margin of their specified rating. Wouldn't going way down to only 50A be detrimental to the life of a bulb rated at 140A?

And just out of curiosity how do you rig the automation to control the rectifier output amperes? I've got this picture in my mind of one of my 180A monster reactance rectifiers with the big crank wheel on top....I see the automation switching on a humungous 10hp reversible motor that's been bolded to the top of the rectifier, the crank wheel has been removed and the motor shaft has been welded to the crank shaft; switched in one direction the motor turns the rectifier shaft up, the other direction turn it in the opposite direction....am I close?
 

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Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 08-24-2004, 10:19 PM:
 
Frank... not knowing the specifics of Andrew's power supply, I can only guess. However, in the times when I've lost a leg on my 3 phase, my current has dropped way down.... I think it's higher than 50 amps, but I don't remember. I haven't had a respectable power outage since I outfitted my place with an emergency generator!

I suppose you could put in a contactor that would lift the third leg off the primary. That would knock the wind out of the output current pretty effectively on a high reactance supply. The caps on the output would probably deal with it reasonably well... at least for idle purposes. Any flicker wouldn't be seen by the audience.

Just speculating, of course. Who knows? Maybe they put a big resistor bank in series with the primary!

Oh... funny on the motorized wheel crank! That would be worth a video!
 

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Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 08-24-2004, 10:26 PM:
 
If I was going to do what you speculate, Jack, I'd wire the two pots in parallel and connect/disconnect one of them with the relay. This would be better than flipping between two different pots since who knows what the rectifier will do in the brief period of time it takes for the relay to move. Probably not much (you might get a spike or sag), but you might as well avoid it since it's just as easy, and cheaper, to do.
 

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Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 08-24-2004, 10:32 PM:
 
That's what I was looking for, Daryl. Thanks.
Plus, if you had a failure in the circuit, you could just adjust the other pot. That addresses my concern regarding any relay failure... simple.

I don't have any concerns about whether the supply can handle this. Any reason that it would cause the bulb particular grief? How about the older supplies that had this feature built in. Was there any issue as far as the bulb was concerned. If not, I'm probably going to try it... if nothing else, just to see how it goes. During breaks, the notion of dropping my 7kW bulbs down to the point they aren't trying to cut through the front of the lamphouse is pretty appealing.

I'd be interested to know if any effect on the bulb offsets wear and tear... high temperature on the douser... and electric savings.

For that matter... anyone know why an "idle circuit" didn't become more mainstream? Obviously, the idea isn't a new one.
 

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Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 08-24-2004, 11:09 PM:
 
If you select a relay that requires power to the coil to make the circuit go into standby mode, and thus usually fails leaving the circuit in full power mode, you won't have to worry (too much anyway) about making any adjustments to the pots in the event of a relay failure.

Assuming an increased resistance on the pot increases the rectifier output you'd want a relay that is normally open, otherwise you'd want a relay that is normally closed. Of course this may be a trade off of relay life for a nicer failure mode depending on your operating schedule since the relay will be powered, in this setup, the whole time you're in standby mode. Still, given the shorter life, I'd still do it this way since a failure is less likely to cause problems on your one night off a month.

Come to think of it, depending on how the rectifier output follows the pot and the size of the second pot you add, you might not even be able to achieve full output if the second pot is connected. So, I'd say, the above failure mode is the definite way to go.

Also, depending on the automation, you might not even need another relay. If you've got an "electrical" automation you might already have a spare relay. If you've got a "mechanical" automation there might already be a spare switch or relay.

I have no idea about the benefits or downsides when it comes to the lamp itself. In the little experience I have with lamps running in standby I don't remember having to order a special lamp, but I'm sure somebody else will know which lamps are happy with a standby current and which aren't, of any ups/downs and what standby current you should run at.
 

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Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 08-25-2004, 01:39 AM:
 
All good points. Unfortunately, little valid statistics to go by.

So... I'm going to give it a try. It may take a while, but I'll set up a low-current idle scenario & track whether it has any effect on lamp performance and hours. It may not be "official". However, I'm as cheap as the next guy when it comes to expenses out of my wallet. If this seems a bad idea, I'll sure let everyone know!

... hope I don't blow up a bulb... or a reflector... or a power supply... or burn down my booth... or a screen... or burn a pizza... or...........
 

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Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 08-25-2004, 02:05 AM:
 
Little? More like none! (from me anyway)

Someone else might chime in tomorrow. I know a few people are on the road right now, so it might be a bit before you get any responses.

FWIW, I think Imax and other such venues run their lamps on standby (reducing ignitions) more for arc stability reasons than economical reasons.

You wouldn't serve bacon on that pizza, would you?
 

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Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 08-25-2004, 02:35 AM:
 
Some power supplies and lamphouses in Asia have a "simmer" option in addition to adjustments to an electromagnet in the lamphouse to control the arc plasma. LP Associates in the USA will also do this on special order.
 

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Posted by Dick Vaughan (Member # 540) on 08-25-2004, 02:45 AM:
 
The IMAX GT systems put the 15kw lamps in to standby between shows and also on the unused eye during 2D shows. Smaller eg 7kW SR systems leave lamps full on but we do have dowsers built from boilerplate!
 

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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 08-25-2004, 12:22 PM:
 
I was just fancying that big motor trying to control the wheel on a reactance rectifier, but in all probability a switching supply would be more likely; don't most of them have trip pots for amperage output control? Additional resistance could easily be switched into and out of the circuit by the automation. I don't imagine the trim pots are carrying anything but a low control voltage in the regulation circuitry. This would probably be a very logical place to control the output amperage. But of course I am just guessing. (You like that big motor welded to the rectifier crank wheel, eh, Jack?!).

But my question still remains....isn't burning a 140A rated xenon at 50A very, VERY bad for the bulb? Didn't I see a warning on the xenon box once saying never to burn the bulb above or BELOW the rated amperage range? Or did I dream that? (which certainly is very possible).
 

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Posted by Bill Langfield (Member # 818) on 08-25-2004, 01:47 PM:
 
Frank,

Using IREMS?, of course they have no way going into stand-buy, unless you build your motorised crank for the tap. (Let me know how that goes, sounds like fun project - I visulise a cordless hi-torque drill with a decent power supply replacing the battery. Remove the hand crank, mount the drill in there, set the speed control on low, hook up the On/off and For/rev to some free automation relays, AND your off!!)

That idea of losing a phase (I think Jack suggested) to erm 'fake' stand-by is a freaky, interesting one.

Andrew works for the same company as me and by his description
they use exactly the same gear, and methods. (His cinema is 3 hours drive from me and Ive never been there, must ask if I can visit one day.

The full=140amps and stand-by=50amps, MIGHT be outside what Im used to.
Its more like 100-120 full, 60-70 standby. But that is not a static figure, depends on the cinema size. Most multiplexes here, say for example a 10, normally have 2x500 and 8x250 seaters.
However I don't really know how his place is set up.

Like you, I too must re-read the min operating Amps of each bulb, to ensure we are not running TOO low when in standby. But generally I've felt comfortable with around 65amps.
 

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Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 08-25-2004, 02:08 PM:
 

quote: Frank Angel

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But my question still remains....isn't burning a 140A rated xenon at 50A very, VERY bad for the bulb?

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quote:

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Current control range A 80 - 150

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So for this 4000 watt lamp, Osram recommends between 80 and 150 amperes. Below that range, the arc becomes more unstable, so the plasma may wander, or the lamp may go out and then try to restart at too low a current. I recall that if the lamp runs too cool, it may blacken sooner too.
 

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Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 08-25-2004, 05:29 PM:
 
That may be true, John... but it seems to me that the manufacturers' current range listings are done for long-term use... not intermittent periods.

This question will probably not be answered unless we get one of the lamp guys here to weigh in on whether short-term operation at low amperage is any big deal (hint, hint!).

Frank: It may seem funny, but what you suggest could probably be done. I once worked in a theatre that had auditorium lights powered by multi-stack Variac transformers. They had gear reduction drives on the top, where you might have expected a control wheel. Limit switches controlled the stop points... probably much like a masking or curtain motor. It was a very reliable and trouble-free system for its time.

To use Bill's comment... what you're thinking of would be "freaky"... but probably doable. Dunno about the high-torque drill motor, though!
 

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Posted by Andrew Jefferson (Member # 2565) on 08-25-2004, 07:17 PM:
 
Sorry for my absence and leaving you guys in the dark about my lamphouse setup.

I use the "USHIO/XEBEX KCX-160U2/4" rectifier; it has two pots on the side, one for full current, and one for stand-by current. It has a connection behind the front panel for a "Remote", with this you can turn the lamphouse power on/off, place the lamphouse in full/stand-by, and strike the lamp, there is also feedback from the lamphouse showing whether the lamp is actually on.

I have only the full/standby, and lamp feedback connected to the automation.

In the morning I strike with the lamp on full power (using toggle switches on the lamphouse piggybacked into the remote on the rectifier), after a min or two of warm up I’ll switch the toggle switches to “Auto” on the lamphouse. Then when Showtime hits the automation puts the lamphouse in full mode starts the motor, and opens the zipper. If the lamp chooses to fail, the automation alarm will sound via the “Lamphouse Feedback” connection on the rectifier remote socket.
 

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Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 08-25-2004, 09:16 PM:
 
I would say if the plasma really starts to get unstable and wander as you lower current, you've gone too low. Likewise, if you find the lamp sometimes goes out and has to reignite, you've probably gone too far.
 

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Posted by Bill Langfield (Member # 818) on 08-26-2004, 12:10 PM:
 
Whoa, ANDREW

Who hooked up this 'Lamphouse Feedback'? That sounds cool!!
Was it Barry? (from ASN?)

Are you using MultiMation III?

What about a turret left open relay, YES PLEAD GUILTY of doing that.
 

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Posted by Andrew Jefferson (Member # 2565) on 08-26-2004, 05:52 PM:
 
Sorry, No turret relay here... Anyway you should be closing it yourself after each lace-up, Alarms are for equipment failures not human failures.

I'm not sure who did the initial set-up, it might have been GUVT or ASN.

BTW. We have AMX-MMII.
 

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Posted by Bill Langfield (Member # 818) on 08-28-2004, 01:26 PM:
 
Andrew, Point taken.

Thank you.
 

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Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 08-28-2004, 04:24 PM:
 
FWIW, it appears that iWERKS sim rides shut the lamp off at the end of every session (about every four or five minutes), and then reignites it again in about the same amount of time.

Maybe that's why the screen illumination is so bad at Paramount Canada's Wonderland, with all of those ignitions. Maybe Phil can comment on why they didn't choose to use a standby mode in this setup?
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-28-2004, 08:50 PM:
 
Our SimEx ride at Ontario Place stays lit all day
The Ushio line of lamps was designed for use with standbye mode in mine and the stabalizatuion changes with the current to correct for arc wandering
 

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Posted by Phil Blake (Member # 2012) on 08-29-2004, 06:56 AM:
 
I always ignite the xenons at least 15mins before start of show.

We use manual switching of xenons on the Vic5 consols as we have found if the automation starts xenon , it drags the projector motor down and it drops out causing a failed start.
 

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