Checked and re-checked, and they all seem to be working in one direction only. The multimeter was set to 2M Ohm, which I assume means milli-ohms. Should it be set to anything different? Is there anything else I can check?
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 09-14-2004, 07:48 PM:
What I want to know is are there any buffalos in Buffalo? If not then why is it called Buffalo?
Mark
Posted by Rick Long Jr (Member # 541) on 09-14-2004, 08:50 PM:
Check and see if there is a 2 ohm 5 watt resistor in series with the timer motor. Without this resistor, some of them would actually go backwards when triggered.(Not sure if it was a different supplier issue or what- some needed it, some didn't) The cue triggers the timer, and at the end of the cycle it steps to the next line. What happens if the timer goes backward? It steps first, completely ignoring your house up pin, and then doing everything on your stop line, but in the reverse order.
Something to check anyway.
Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 09-14-2004, 08:51 PM:
I didn't see any when I was there. But then Gordon and I spent most of our free time in that bar. Somebody told me there used to be many buffalos, but they killed and ate them all until there were none left. That's probably why they had to start eating chicken wings.
Yes, that makes sense.
Dan - the capital M stands for Mega. 2 Mega Ohm is two million.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 09-17-2004, 10:31 PM:
Does the timer light come on when the foil goes by
If so look and find which cue bus it eh one that the function you want is connected to and then replace the R10 relay for that function
Posted by Rick Long (Member # 213) on 09-17-2004, 11:35 PM:
The strangest thing with this problem is its intermittency. If it were a constant mistake (such as a shorted diode or an incorrect relay) one would expect the fault to happen more than one out of twenty times.
Here is a quick way to find out which relay does what.
Inside the main automation panel, there is a circuit board of relays.
The majority of the relays are located in a rectangular configuration of 5 high by 4 wide. These relays are R-10 types.
These relays are numbered by column (vertical) groups, A B C and D and by row (horizontal) groups 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5,
The upper left relay is A-1. The lower right relay is D 5. (A relay in the second column, third relay down would be B-3.)
There are 20 functions that you can select, by placing a diode in the appropriate hole. Each of these "holes" drives a relay from A-1 (Function line 1 (usually projector lamp start) to D-5 the last function line (usually self-pulse).
So find out which "hole" raises the lights at the start of the credits. . Lets say, for example, 16.
Then work out which relay controls that function (In this example, hole 16 feeds D-1).
Try subbing D-1 (or whatever relay drives your lights up) with another relay to see if that clears the house-light problem. Check the relay, these should all be 24 Volt DC R10 types.
Good Luck.
Posted by Dan Bouvier (Member # 2655) on 09-18-2004, 12:17 AM:
Thanks for the help, guys... I'm going to a Beastie Boys concert in the morning so I'll try your ideas out when I get back on Wednesday.
I've only ever been at the projector once when the automation screwed up, and if I remember correctly the timer light DID come on. Keep in mind, though, that it's not just one function that's not working (it's not just that the house lights aren't coming up). The second program is set to bring up the house lights; the third program stops the projector, closes the changeover, raises the house and curtain lights, and sets the sound back to non-sync. But when that first cue goes through, the projector stops and that's it. No non-sync, no lights, nothing. We do have 4 or 5 spare relays sitting in a box in a back room, I'll try swapping the one that sets the house lights up and cross my fingers from there.
Thanks again!
Dan
Posted by Rick Long (Member # 213) on 09-18-2004, 05:38 PM:
Another type of peg-board automation, Cinemation Mk. IV's were installed at a cinema in Eastern Ontario, some years ago.
The electrician failed to provide protection against small metal pieces, from holes he drilled in the main cabinet, falling into the programming board.
For years after that, "sneak cues" would, now and then, cause strange things to happen to the performance.
Posted by Dan Bouvier (Member # 2655) on 09-23-2004, 02:08 PM:
...turns out all the spare relays are at my boss's other theatre.
1. Is there any way to test the existing ones, with a multimeter or something?
2. If there's a peg-hole that has no function assigned to it, can it steal its relay and use it to replace the iffy one? Or will a missing relay cause the automation to not work?
3. Does anyone have a manual for the Showman II? If they could put it up here that would be sweet.
Thanks again.
Dan
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 09-23-2004, 10:46 PM:
If the function line is unused then take the relay'
I have the manual but will not be back to the shop for a long time as this install is bogged down
Posted by Dan Bouvier (Member # 2655) on 09-24-2004, 03:13 AM:
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 09-24-2004, 08:09 PM:
And a really nice guy too! ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 12-12-2006, 10:53 PM:
It has been 809 days since the last post.