Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Help wanted on fitting new water cooling hoses

This is topic Help wanted on fitting new water cooling hoses in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Chris Byrne (Member # 1563) on 10-25-2004, 01:44 PM:

Hi All,

I want to change over the water cooling hoses in a projector, as they are getting cracked and brittle behind the gate area and I don't want to risk them rupturing.

I could not get UV rated silicone heater hose (as recommended), however I purchased a length of hose called 'PREMO-FLEX' which is red in colour and I was told it would do the job.

With the current set up of the hose, it coils over all the cables coming in and out of the projector. I am planning to re-route the hose so that it doesn't sit in the same place when done.

Has anyone had any experience with changing hoses that they could offer any advice?

If need be, I can post a picture of the current setup.

Posted by Aaron Sisemore (Member # 145) on 10-25-2004, 05:01 PM:

The old hoses may be extremely difficult to remove from the barbed nipples on the projector, so you may have to end up cutting the hoses away. After that make sure the nipples are clean without any gunk on them that may affect the seal of the new hoses.

As far as the new hoses go, it should be extremely simple. Just make sure that the ID of the hoses snugly fits the OD of the nipples on the projector, and use hose clamps to ensure a good seal. Make sure that the hoses don't get into any area where a potential ak could cause coolant to drip into any electrical apparatus, and dress the hoses neatly, of course. [Smile]

Also be sure to change the coolant in the system as well.

-Aaron

Posted by Chris Byrne (Member # 1563) on 10-28-2004, 01:04 PM:

Thanks for your help ... Just got home from fitting them.

Took me a couple of hours. Much safer now than original route with hose lying over incoming / outgoing cable. Thanks again [beer]

Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 10-28-2004, 02:12 PM:

While using some of these arrows is probably overboard

(picture borrowed from p. 1778 of the McMaster-Carr catalog), it might be worth drawing some arrows with Sharpie(tm), just to speed up and future debugging. [thumbsup]

--jhawk

Posted by Jack Ondracek (Member # 1466) on 10-28-2004, 02:47 PM:

Nice looking job, Chris.

Question... What's the device you have the tubing connected to at the base of the console?

Posted by Chris Byrne (Member # 1563) on 10-28-2004, 08:38 PM:

Hi Jack,

That's a little radiator (probably 20+ years old.) When I replaced all the hoses the amount of gunk that come out of it was substantial.

It took about half the project time to flush out the tiny rust deposits out of this itself. This was the result of using fresh water with a metal pump (corrosion, humidity, etc.) So as you can guess, I replaced with a plastic pump and also bought 60 litres of distilled water to suit.

The pump you see there cost AU$550 about three years ago and was like trying to find a needle in a haystack. I think it is a German brand - however I will post brand and model if anyone is having the same problems chasing one.

If anyone has hoses that are brittle / perished, yet don't want to go the whole hog, a good idea would be to just wrap the affected section with glass tape. That should prevent any further damage. [thumbsup]

BTW: The slatted wooden shelf to the left of the water tank was the original route of the hosing (through the hole in the underside.) The tank also sat on this shelf (with a cover over it) - yet not impossible for water seapage.

Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 10-28-2004, 08:47 PM:

Adding glycol or some antifreeze to the water should help with unwanted build up.

Posted by Stephen Jones (Member # 16) on 10-28-2004, 09:39 PM:

Good job Chris couldn't have done better myself.You are right, not using distilled water would have caused the corrosion you mentioned and using distilled water is the way to go.I have always used it and have never needed to use anti freeze (or any other additive for that matter) which I have been advised not to use it.I Have found that using Distilled water I don't have any problems with corrosion etc at all.

Cheers [beer]

Steve

Posted by Chris Byrne (Member # 1563) on 10-29-2004, 10:07 PM:

Hi Stephen,

Thanks. You haven't stumbled across any reliable suppliers for this kind of stuff (pumps, hoses, etc) down your part of the country have you?

Cheers [Wink]

Chris

Posted by Stephen Jones (Member # 16) on 10-29-2004, 11:20 PM:

Hi Chris,

I usually go to the hardware store (Bunnings) for hoses pumps etc as they have suitable pumps to do the job another place you could try for hose is Clarks rubber you should have one up there the sell pools etc.The pumps are pricey but the do the job I'm about due to replace one soon as its been going 5 years now as the bearings are about shot.For the water I go to coles as they are cheaper than the hardware store and the will get the 4 litre bottles if you buy enough of it from them.Im thinkng about trying the silicon hose when I replace mine down the track.The FP50D hose layout looks easier to work on than theFP30 after having looking at it after reading your post but they are in excellent condition so wont have to worry about it for a while.

Cheers [beer]

Steve

Posted by Chase Hanson (Member # 2779) on 10-31-2004, 03:36 AM:

While ive never dealt with water cooling in a projector, pretty much any WC setup can benefit from the addition of some Water Wetter.

It is not as "fun" as antifreeze. But it does a pretty good job of protecting against the "terminal effect" if your system is composed of dissimiliar metals and it will lower the viscosity of water which is immensely helpful in reducing the resistence (on your system) by your radiator, which can help prolong pump life.

Posted by Stephen Jones (Member # 16) on 10-31-2004, 06:04 AM:

I have never had to use any aditive in water for cooling projectors as there is no need if using distilled water,The pipes on the projectors and the pumps etc are in good condition(one pump needs replacing soon because of normal wear and tear not corrosion)
just as on the day we opened 5 yrs ago no rust or corrosion at all I doubt if i will have to replace hoses or metal for some time yet.

Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 10-31-2004, 09:38 AM:

I am making my own water circulator using a standard submersible pump and a plastic five gal tub. I need to get those nipples for the top lid of the tub. Anyone know where these can be purchased (other than a cinema supply co. which will charge me 10 times the retail price)?

Posted by Stephen Jones (Member # 16) on 11-01-2004, 01:20 AM:

G'day Frank,

You could try a plumbing supply store or the gardening section at the local hardware store.They both usually have the brass metal fittings the I require ,I find brass is better for the job such as cooling systems as I have used these for the stainless steel fightings that I have had to replace over the years as the Stainless steel types rust and corrode from using tap water as these sites have been using rather than distilled water which is only about $1.50 to $2.00 AU for a 2 litre bottle (the bigger the bottle the cheaper it works out),another place you could try is a auto spares place.

Cheers

Steve [beer]

Posted by Chris Byrne (Member # 1563) on 11-02-2004, 03:28 AM:

Hi Steve,

FYI. I got distilled water from Super Cheap. It was $3.25 per 5 little bottle, which was as cheap as anywhere else I looked.

Thanks for the info on pumps and supplies. I frequently pick up bits and pieces from both stores (Bunnings and Clarks Rubber.)

All the Best,
Chris

[ 11-02-2004, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: Chris Byrne ]