quote: Chase Hanson

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2.Is there a way to adjust the rate at which the take up variac takes up tension? We have quite a few units that take up tension so fast (when threading) that it just slams into the upper bar and completely disjoints the lower magazine, unless you physically hold the platter for about a minute or so.

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Do you have the motors disengaged from the platter when you thread? You should leave them disengaged while threading until you are almost completely done. Then you should push the free-wheeling platter by hand until the takeup elevator ("Yo-Yo") is all the way at the top and the motor on the takeup platter stops running. THEN you re-engage the motor on the takeup platter.

If this isn't your problem, then you might have some timing and speed control issues. There is a "zero speed" adjustment in the variac box at the bottom of the platter that determines how high the Yo-Yo must be before the motor(s) stop running. There are also some timing adjustments you can make to the platters to ensure they are all running at or near the same speed.

At first thought, however, it sounds to me like you're "slamming" your platters when you thread. It's a common thing to happen on Strong/Potts platters if you aren't careful.

The instruction manual tells you how to make the above adjustments. It also tells you the correct threading procedure to prevent "slamming". Check out the manual. If you don't have one you can download it from this site.

(Then print it out and put a copy in the bathroom! )

[ 11-17-2004, 01:10 PM: Message edited by: Randy Stankey ]
 

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Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 11-17-2004, 11:06 AM:
 
***** Get a manual! *****

Well, there's a big difference between the DMC/SCDC units and the microswitch/phase control ones. If the on/off switch and fuses are on the TOP of the power supply box, it's a microswitch/phase control unit with a variac inside. Those switches and fuses on the side (or back or front, whatever way you look at it) of the power supply box means DMC/SCDC with no variac.
The payout/makeup switch only means you have the AP frame, there's a model with selector switches for OFF-PAYOUT-REWIND-MAKEUP as well (only for the variac kind).
Regardless, the tension arm pullup is maybe sort-of adjustable. With the variac power supply you adjust the position of the powerstat relative to the tension dancer position - the powerstat should be just a hair back from the fully off stop when the dancer arm is at its highest point. These will usually slam up to the top stop if the platter isn't held when pulling in slack.
The DMC and SCDC models have no powerstat. The dancer should creep up slowly to about 3/4 up with these types. There's an optical sensor/drive PCB and a snail card in the power supply. These are more tricky to adjust and you must get the manual to attempt the adjustment.
The DMC motor controls are susceptible to miscalibration; you need a special cable, a computer, and a program from Strong to recalibrate the sensor/control electronics. Don't mess with it if it's a DMC and you don't have the needed recalibration kit!
The SCDC model is self calibrating.
As for the payout - the variac models can only pay out a little bit faster than the rewind deck is turning. The variac voltage drives the rewind deck motor through a low value resistor. The payout motor is fed the same voltage without the resistor - controlled by either the microswitch or the phase control "brain".
The DMC and SCDC models supply 120VAC to the payout circuit and the motor is fully controlled by the "brain... it can possibly run at full zot speed like the fastest the platter can turn with the makeup table. I've seen problems like that with screwy DMC controls.
 

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Posted by William Valdes (Member # 2690) on 11-17-2004, 11:12 AM:
 
We tend to get our take-up platter rollers bent when a careless projectionist allows that "Yo-Yo" to hit the top
 

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Posted by Chase Hanson (Member # 2779) on 11-18-2004, 04:52 AM:
 

quote: Randy Stankey

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Do you have the motors disengaged from the platter when you thread?

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quote: Dave Macaulay

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I've seen problems like that with screwy DMC controls.

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quote: Monte L Fullmer

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AND...definitely toss them microswitches to the nearest dumpster and install phase control modules.

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Monte,

Be careful with phase controls as any drifting in timing will be reflected in the feed speed. Now we all know there isn't a Strong platter in the world that can hold its timing for more than a week . There is no way a phase control module can over come timing drift. You will be running around keeping everything in time the rest of your life..... just so the phase controls can feed out nicely . Most chains in the mountain states have tossed the phase controls out and replaced them with lighter spring action micros that are available from Microswitch. The lighter action micros work so gently as to almost effect a continous feed out till you get into the last reel or two. All our customers and many others have gone this route... its also no more expensive than replacing the regular micro, your dealer just needs to know the correct micro switch to supply you with .

Mark @ CLACO
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 11-28-2004, 10:49 PM:
 
Thx again Marko, and I agree with you always - It just seems like those microswitch brains just would love to toss prints without any thought, and as you mention with the last reel or two on the platter, esp. when the switch starts to get hours and usage on it.

Since we have a situation like the points in an old car's distributor, wonder if there is a way that a condensor can be placed on one of the wire legs to "soften" up the voltage so the points inside the switch doesn't get so burnt up so quick due to arcing which gets that "peak and valley" between the points inside the switch when the points break apart and close so readilly.

Yet, have to tell you a little secret: Remember Northgate when you and I did that overhauling up there to get this theatre going before opening..and that was in 2002? No.4's platters are still running with the phase controls(never got around in changing the brains to microswitch), and this platter still runs the smoothest of all the platters there. - is my liking of phase control brains.

When I played "Gods and Generals" at the Nampa, I changed out a brain from microswitch to phase control-to payout that huge 18 reel print (print was 4inches away from the platter's edge when completely built up). For I wanted that print to feed very smooth and continually. It worked real smooth and helped that presentation very well.

As for the microswitch availibility: I found that Grainger has these microswitches -the 6X284 - the same size and style as the Strong switch, lasts just as long, just a small modification in taking out the spring that is underneath the tang to make the tang more sensitive for the arm response.

Guess you might say: I love the CHR AW3(R) platters-they way they handle film and operate all togther, and sometimes having difficulties accepting these Strong platters at times.

thx again-Monte
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 11-29-2004, 08:06 PM:
 
MOnte, The correct switch is not available from Graingers and is only available from a Hineywell switch dealer. We get them from a local distributer here in SLC. They have far less tension than even the normal Honeywell switch does.

Mark
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-01-2004, 03:07 AM:
 
Hi again Marko - is this the correct number from Honeywell: the BZ2RW84-A2? - thx Monte
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 12-01-2004, 08:10 AM:
 
I'll look at one when I get to work......

MArk
 

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Posted by Mike Babb (Member # 1379) on 12-01-2004, 08:42 AM:
 
BZ-RW8435-A2
This is the one I ordered last time, I believe it is the correct one.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 12-01-2004, 07:30 PM:
 
Mikes number is correct. Same one we stock and use. About .5oz activation tension on the bat and it doesn't come with the spring that you have to take out. The diofference between this switch and the stock Strong switches has to be seen in operation to be appreciated. I always reccomend replacing all platter micros every 14 to 18 months depending on if you're a three show a day or all day operation.

Mark
 

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Posted by Mike Babb (Member # 1379) on 12-01-2004, 10:23 PM:
 
I like this version a lot better since getting the number off Mark and others, the Grainger version is noticeably harder to trigger and I think someone also mentioned it is not rated for as much life. The interesting thing is when someone buys the Grainger version and installs them without removing the spring...very hard to trigger...
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-04-2004, 01:48 PM:
 
I did a bunch of micro changeouts this last week (all pooped out..grrrrr...), kept these old micros, went to Honeywell to see what these were, and I had about 4 different model "BZ" switches planted on these brains. Some were the 1oz OF (outside force), and others were the 2.5 OF switches-probably the the ones with the spring removed to make them 1oz OF. The ones that were listed above where the 1oz OF variety.

The ones that I bought at Grainger are the OMRON variety, and when I take the spring out, they have a OF of .98oz (by the manufacturer specs..)

I can get this Honeywell brand and type of switch at Allied here in Boise.
 

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