This is topic Brain Wraps in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Patrick Matthews (Member # 2705) on 02-09-2005, 05:30 PM:
 
My theatre, when it originally opened in July, started off using a Potts platter. We run a single screen theatre and are able to run changeovers for press screenings and trade screenings. In August our platter broke and since we had little money at the time, etc. we just decided to run changeovers until the owner got someone to fix the platter. Cut to 1 week ago and we finally got the platter working. Back in August I wasn't working the booth but I do remember the projectionist having a brain wrap and it was pretty serious and I never found out how it got fixed.

I now run the booth and have a question to you all. What are some of the main causes of brain wraps and what are some things that can be done to quickly fix the problem and keep the show running without having to cancel it?
 

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Posted by Thomas Dieter (Member # 2507) on 02-09-2005, 05:51 PM:
 
Some of the main problems of Brain Wraps are thus:

A jumped roller (cause of operator error)
Static on the film causing the film to jump a roller.
Sticky Print (cause of bad splicing tape, and more.)
Slow motor, or fast motor (cause of poorly adjusted feedout motor)

The first thing you want to find out is what direction the brain warp happened, did the platter stop moving and continue to warp that way, or did it continue to spin, and wrap forward.
Once you have got that figured out, you want to take an spin the platter in the opposite direction. If the brain warp is so that you can't see the brain, you are gonna want to cut the film, and go from there.
 

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Posted by Joshua Waaland (Member # 287) on 02-09-2005, 07:08 PM:
 
With the Potts platters there are several causes to brain wraps.

First the obvious operator error:
-Misthread through the brain rollers.
-Motor left disengaged after breaking down a film.

Next Equipment Malfunctions:
-Bad variac adjustment.
-Bad microswitch in the brain.
-Damaged film that sticks together.

Acts of Nature
-Static (from dry air)
-Dirt

Most of the time I think you will find that it is operator error. It is a good idea to check up on it occassionally during the show.
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-09-2005, 07:50 PM:
 
I use a Potts platter.

My vote for the number one cause of brain wraps & film interruptions is forgetting to re-engage the motors under the platters.

If you forget to re-engage the payout, you will get a "strangulation" brain wrap because the platter isn't giving out film.

If you forget to re-engage the takeup platter, you will get film piling up on the floor under the projector until, ultimately, the failsafe stops the projector. (Hopefully!)

If you misthread the brain, you'll probably see a situation where the payout platter spins too fast and you get a backlash of film wrapping backwards around the brain.

In any case, one thing about Potts platters is that they often take a minute or two for the problem to get bad enough to jam the film. It can lull you into a false sense of security. The projector and film seems to be running OK. You start to walk away and all hell breaks loose.

Of course, you want to always double check your film before you start the projector but, if you have Potts, it pays to get in the habit of double checking and TRIPLE checking the entire film path!
 

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Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 02-09-2005, 09:58 PM:
 
Potts suck!
Get a Strong
 

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Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 02-10-2005, 02:52 AM:
 

quote: Richard Hamilton

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Potts suck!
Get a Strong

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quote: Richard Hamilton

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Potts suck!
Get a Strong

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Hey, Potts and Strong platters are both built by an outfit called "Design and Manufacture" I was under the impression that they were about 98% identical. I own and operate a Potts, and I recently installed two Strongs at a neighboring theater. They operate the same. (At least the platters equipped with micro switch brains do)

I've only had two brain wraps on my Potts in 8 years, and both were caused by improper threading of the brain by a sloppy projectionist. If you take a look at the platter for a minute or so after starting the feature and before leaving the booth, most brain wraps can be quickly remedied. As for static causing a wrap..... Try FilmGuard!

Steve Hart
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-10-2005, 09:55 AM:
 
Steven,

I have to agree with you. Although Christies and Specos are superior in many ways, Potts/Strong platters aren't all that bad... PROVIDED you are a conscientous operator.

There are some things I would change about them but they aren't the film grinders some people make them out to be. You just have to pay attention.

But... You SHOULD be paying attention anyway! No?!

Therefore, any reasonably intelligtent operator with proper training and work ethic should have no trouble operating a Strong/Potts platter.

<humor>
Taking the above into consideration, I put forth that anybody who says Strong/Potts platters suck is really saying that THEY are a sucky operator!
</humor>
 

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Posted by Robert E. Allen (Member # 1351) on 02-10-2005, 02:31 PM:
 
We use Strong platters. While I have been back in the business for only six months I have never had a brain wrap. That's because I always double-check EVERYTHING before I start the projector. A couple of times I caught the film in a position in the brain that would have caused a brain-wrap if I had started the machine. I believe the chief cause is operator error. Threading a platter and projector speedily serves absolutely no useful purpose. If one misses a start time or has a stop-down the audience can wait a few more seconds while the machine is threaded properly.
 

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Posted by Richard May (Member # 2627) on 02-10-2005, 05:56 PM:
 
One problem is managers running the booth.
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-10-2005, 07:16 PM:
 

quote: Richard May

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One problem is managers running the booth.

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quote: Steven J Hart

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Hey, Potts and Strong platters are both built by an outfit called "Design and Manufacture" I was under the impression that they were about 98% identical.

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Design & Manufacturing, Inc. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Ballantyne Of Omaha, thus "Potts" platters ARE "Strongs" for all intents and purposes.

-Aaron
 

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Posted by Steven J Hart (Member # 2340) on 02-10-2005, 07:49 PM:
 

quote: Brad Miller

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The problem is untrained or uncaring PEOPLE running the booth. Whether they are titled as a manager or a projectionist doesn't matter.

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Brad, I agree 100%. I'm the manager of my small theater and also the chief projectionist. I think you'll find that many of the small non-chain theaters have the same situation. If the show doesn't run - or stops - its me who has to tell the patrons why they can't see the rest of the show. Thats incentive for me to try to not only put on the best presentation I can, but also to give my patrons the most reliable service. Lumping all managers into a non-caring group of penny pinchers is not fair.

Steve
 

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Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 02-10-2005, 09:08 PM:
 
Randy,
I only said that Potts platters suck!!

Rick
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-10-2005, 09:15 PM:
 

quote:

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Randy,
I only said that Potts platters suck!!

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Yet in reality, they BOTH do!
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-10-2005, 10:16 PM:
 
The Lord knows, I wouldn't want to outfit a 30-plex with all Potts platters but they just aren't THAT bad.

If I got to pick which platters to outfit a booth with it'd be a Christie or a Speco hands down. But, for a small operation that doesn't have a lot of money to spend they are a viable choice.

However, they should have sign on them: "When I grow up, I want to be a Christie."
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 02-11-2005, 03:08 AM:
 
Sad thing is that Strong platters are so much cheaper than a Christie, why a lot of circuits buy them in droves.

Plus, the Strong platters are so simple to use, easy to maintain, being that they have no electronics to worry about as does the Christie and the Speco units.

Yet, granted, tried and true, Christies walks all over Strongs in the long run, but the Christies just have to be more taken care of by experienced personnel who now how to do the electrical/mechianical alignments of these units. But when in tune, these units will run forever.

Whereas, the Strongs and with the central variac controlled action, and loaded with switches, in both brains (optional) and down in the variac base, one have to watch out for these to fail out all of a sudden. Plus those Lamb vacuum motors to drive the platters instead of using Bodine DC motors of the Christie and Speco have much to be desired.

Makes one wonder if the CFS (Charlie Film Systems) SuperPlatter copied the Strong/Potts idea? or vice versa..? They kinda look alike......

I love seeing a booth loaded with AW3's.

-Monte
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-11-2005, 11:28 AM:
 
Agreed! Also, if you need parts for your Strong/Potts platter you can usually find them at the hardware store whereas getting a part for an AW-3 means ordering it from the factory or a dealer.

Need a new drive tire? Get a vacuum sweeper belt.
Need a new switch or a screw? You can probably pick them up locally as well.

Blow a platter speed control card? You're down until the order arrives.
 

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Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 02-11-2005, 11:35 AM:
 
The Super platter is made by a relative of Bob Potts....they had a falling out and Bob went to Design Manufacturing, then an independent contract manufacturer, to produce his Alpha series. The Super platter has been "improved" slightly in the brain area when CFS started distribution.....anybody remember the Blue Diamond platter...another name for early Potts platter.
The Super platter is now made in India by the Monee company through an arrangement of Dick Niccum
 

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Posted by Patrick Matthews (Member # 2705) on 02-11-2005, 03:27 PM:
 
Ok here is a follow up to my previous post. To all the folks with Potts/Strong platters (well, I guess anyone) I got everything running ok and it appears to be running ok but when the film is going into the brain it appears to be wrapping once around the brain on the outside and then is taken up. I know this probably isn't good, but is it necessarily bad?
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-11-2005, 04:00 PM:
 
Either your system is out of adjustment or it isn't threaded correctly.

1) If the variac at the bottom of the tree isn't adjusted correctly it won't "ask" the motors to turn at the right speed. Your payout will be too slow or too fast. Your takeup will be too tight or too loose. Notice that BOTH payout and takeup speed are controlled by the same adjustment.

2) If the motor(s) that drive the platter(s) are out of adjustment they won't push the platter fast enough even though the variac is asking it to turn at the right speed. This can affect takeup or payout or both.

3) If you are threading the brain incorrectly, the payout control arm won't be pushed back far enough or hard enough to turn on the motor. The film may wrap once around the brain before going into the arm. Be sure the film goes BEHIND the single black roller at the center of the brain. Behind = The side that's closest to the main vertical post. (AKA: "Tree")

4) If you are misthreading the takeup elevator (AKA: "Yo-Yo") incorrectly, it won't be lifted up high enough or it won't fall down far enough to make the variac ask the motors to turn at the right speed. I can't think of a mental picture to describe the threading pattern so I'll just refer you to the manual. There is a good threading diagram in the manual. (RTFM! )

If you have double checked your threading pattern and found that it is correct, according to the manual, then you should go through the testing and calibration procedures listed therein to make sure the variac "zero adjustment" and motor "timing" adjustments are correct. Neither of them are difficult to do. From my memory, they require nothing more than a screwdriver, a wrench and a little patience.
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-11-2005, 04:14 PM:
 
From Randy's comments above.

1) What a moronic design.
2) Retarded!
3) Oh look, another lousy design flaw.
4) I have actually never seen anyone misthread this, but I have seen quite often the film fly off of the roller at the very top of the tree and drag across the backside thouroughly destroying the print. Hmmmm, another idiotic design flaw to add to the list? Yup!
5) A screwdriver, wrench and a little patience? You forgot all of the cursing Randy.

Randy did forget to mention that the platters are real picky little bitches about being EXACTLY level! If they are just a hair off, they will do that stupid backwards wrap thing. Get a level and practice up on your cursing. Your company should've bought an AW3. (Armed with a tachometer, an AW3 can be fully calibrated in less than 2 minutes with a screwdriver and will outperform ALL other platters by leaps and bounds.)
 

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Posted by Patrick Matthews (Member # 2705) on 02-11-2005, 05:10 PM:
 
Ok I double and triple checked my thread and it isn't wrong. Could it possibly be the microswitch in the brain? Because I ran the film from the top platter with "Brain A" and I just started the movie going from the middle platter to the top platter using "Brain B" and it seems to be paying out much better.
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-11-2005, 05:15 PM:
 
Microswitch version, eh? Put a piece of tape on your brains and number them. Then juggle them around and watch what happens. You will find many of them will cause the wrap, others won't (even if everything else is set up as good as possible). I believe Mark Gulbrandsen found a magic microswitch from Grainger that he recommends swapping them out with to help with that problem. Surely he will chime in soon.
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-11-2005, 11:58 PM:
 
Well, my platter is level. It was leveled perfectly when it was installed and it has been ever since. I forgot to mention about leveling the platter because, once done correctly, I have never had to think about it since.

When it comes to the microswitches, to me they are just another replaceable part, just like the rubber drive tire. Like I said above, you simply run out to the hardware store and get new ones. You have to replace things like tires and spark plugs in your car but you don't get bent out of shape about that. I seem to remember replacing a lot of drive tires on Christie platters over the years. Nobody seems to think that's a big deal. Why should Potts be treated any different?

With EVERY brand of platter I have worked with, there is a way to thread the brain incorrectly. If you don't thread the brain correctly, bad things will happen. Out of the platters I have used, Christie's brain is the best, hands down. Yes, you'd have to be stupid to misthread one but I HAVE seen people do it. It ain't pretty. Speco? There's a trick to threading them correctly too! If you don't get the film in there just the right way, it could appear to be running right but it will spite you later on.

I have seen people misthread the yo-yo on a Potts. Granted, it's a stupid mistake to make but there ARE some stupid people out there! Once threaded correctly, I have never seen the film just JUMP off the roller(s) at the top of the tree. Yes, if it is misthreaded or if it does jump off you might as well kiss the print goodbye. If the sliding takeup roller on a Speco falls down or is misthreaded it will scratch the hell out of the print too. Same thing goes for a Christie if it's misthreaded.

If I had my druthers I'd make some changes in the design of Potts platters. I'd like to see keepers on all of the rollers. Many of those things that Brad mentions are valid complaints and they really ought to be changed. Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury.

If I REALLY had my druthers I would have bought Christie's. Again... I didn't make the choice. Potts are a cheaper brand. And, as with all things, you get what you pay for. Quality doesn't come cheap but not everybody can afford it. Cheaper things aren't all bad. Some platters are like Cadillacs and some are like Ford Fiestas.

When you get right down to it, most of the problems with Potts platters are variations on problems with ALL kinds of platters. Every brand has some degree of problem. It's inherrent in the concept of platters in the first place. When you use platters as your method of film transport you buy into that set of problems and you had better be prepared to deal with them. It's just somehting you have to do when you use platters.

Any competent operator SHOULD be able to use Pots/Stron platters without incident once properly trained. (Assuming the equipment is all in working order.) Potts have their problems but they are not insurmountable.

I said this before too: If you are having too much trouble with your Potts platters you had better take a serious look at yourself.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 02-12-2005, 02:17 AM:
 

quote: Brad Miller

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). I believe Mark Gulbrandsen found a magic microswitch from Grainger that he recommends swapping them out with to help with that problem. Surely he will chime in soon

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quote:

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1) What a moronic design.
2) Retarded!

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from Brad. Way to not lose your temper!

Steve
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-12-2005, 11:23 AM:
 
Strictly from a polemic point of view. (i.e.: Solely for the purpose of debate.)

I don't carry a torch for Potts platters but that's the equipment I have to use and there's nothing I can do about it. If the sky opened up and it started raining money I'd be hard pressed NOT to buy a Christie platter. Right now, I'd be better off if I wished for a pony.

(Did you know that if you donate equipment to a 501 C (3) institution you can deduct its value from your tax return? There's still time to sneak in a charitable donation if you're on a Fiscal calendar! -- I want a white pony with black spots! )

You can't defend the fact that Potts/Strong platters are cheap. When you buy cheap equipment you have to expect a few idiosyncracies. But, again, I point out that other, more expensive, platters out there have idiosyncracies too. That's life when you use platters.

I have six college Work Study students working in my booth. I train several new ones, from scratch, every year. They may not be the best operators in the world but they all know how to use a Potts platter and not scratch the film. It just isn't THAT difficult. You simply have to pay attention to what you are doing and do your job right. Check, double check and tripple check your work. You won't have a problem.

If you find that to be problematic then you are, in effect, saying, "I don't know how to do my job right." On one hand, you are saying, "I'm a good projectionist. But, on the other hand, you say, "I can't make {a certain kind of} equipment work correctly." How can you, simultaneously, say that you are a GOOD operator and a BAD one? What?! Are you schizoprhenic?!

To be sure, there is some truly bad equipment out there. I hear horror stories about Eprad and CFS platters all the time. Potts are not "Top of the Line" equipment by any stretch of the imagination but, for the price you pay, they are quite adequate.

Any reasonably competent projectionist can operate them.

If you have more than a few problems operating them correctly then you must not be a competent projectionist.
 

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Posted by Matt Zeiner (Member # 1914) on 02-12-2005, 01:31 PM:
 

quote: Randy Stankey

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To be sure, there is some truly bad equipment out there. I hear horror stories about Eprad and CFS platters all the time. Potts are not "Top of the Line" equipment by any stretch of the imagination but, for the price you pay, they are quite adequate.

Any reasonably competent projectionist can operate them.

If you have more than a few problems operating them correctly then you must not be a competent projectionist.

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I hear you. I have over 100 screens with various incarnations of Potts platters and various degrees of competancy in the booths. I also have over 100 screens that use AW-3's. HANDS DOWN I spend WAY more time in the field servicing the Christie's. In fact, the Design Manufacturing digital platters have proven (at least in my case) to be completely maintenance free. I have had one PSU module go down in one unit in 5 years of continuous operation at a 20-plex I service, and with the redundant PSU design, the screen never even went down. Over the five years the theatre has been in operation, a mediocre at best projection staff has managed to learn how to use them to provide excellent presentations for their patrons, and long life to their prints. Similarly, I have a 16 with microswitch Strong platters where an equally mediocre staff has managed to do the same. Im sorry Brad, I'm with Randy - so-called "moronic design" flaws aside, it really just doesn't have to be a Christie.
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-12-2005, 03:08 PM:
 
Oh my dear poor Steven. Clearly you have issues understanding people's sense of humor when selecting verbage. God forbid you ever read a post of Joe's! Perhaps we should ban the use of sarcasm and non-politically correct worded posts so you don't get your feathers ruffled. Nah, that would be far too boring!

Still, you get what you pay for. Strong platters are an exercise in how to fuck up a design. Yes I have ran flawless shows on Strongs and even the dreaded Super platters, but that doesn't change the foolish things in their design that could be easily fixed if Strong gave a damn.

For those claiming they have more problems with AW3s than other platters, I'll do the same little reversing thing that Randy is pulling...clearly you are a bad tech and have no idea how to properly calibrate the AW3s! (See how stupid that argument is?)

And yes I despise shitty equipment. Get used to it.
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 02-12-2005, 04:13 PM:
 
Actually...I've come across more problems with Christie's too. It has nothing to do with the tech, unless you are talking about calibration problems.

For instance...I had a blown motor control card in an AW3 this week...not a tech issue. I've had AW-3s go down because the work lamp shorted out and there is no fuse (at least on this generation) on those lines...took the transformer out, melted some wires and took the platter down....not a tech issue.

It seems like just about every batch of drive tire in the last 10-years has had some sort of defect to it...too hard, too soft...develops flat spots...not a tech issue (no problems with the Wolk Drive tires thus far and I'd recommend them to anyone with AW3s).

LED module failures...not a tech issue but some are good, some are bad...this was not as long a duration as the drive tires though...then again, you all know how I feel about using visible LEDs for presenting film (or platters for that matter)

The MUT...my pesonal favorite due to its reel orientation and the manner in which film is made up and broken down...but...Christie goes through WAY more controllers than any other brand I've dealt with....not a tech issue.

Based on units we have in service in quantity...the Strong SCDC is the most reliable (zero service calls in years), then SPECO and then Christie.

I too despise the payout totally dependent on take up method of speed control (i.e. Microswitch or phase control)...everything being calibrated perfoectly AND that everyone uses all decks equivalently or there will be speed problems.

In terms of shear film "handling" Kinoton "E" series has em all beat. The payout is near perfect, the tension on the supply and take up is precisely controlled. Their film path is a bit awkward (and changing, at the moment). As to reliability, I don't have enough to pass judgement one way or the other.

Steve
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-12-2005, 04:17 PM:
 

quote: Brad Miller

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For those claiming they have more problems with AW3s than other platters, I'll do the same little reversing thing that Randy is pulling...clearly you are a bad tech and have no idea how to properly calibrate the AW3s! (See how stupid that argument is?)

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quote:

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Oh my dear poor Steven. Clearly you have issues understanding people's sense of humor when selecting verbage. God forbid you ever read a post of Joe's! Perhaps we should ban the use of sarcasm and non-politically correct worded posts so you don't get your feathers ruffled. Nah, that would be far too boring!

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Brad, I fully realise you were just stirring the pot with your previous reply to Randy. Just thought credit was due to Randy for being willing to spend a lot of time creating a thoughtful response to your sarcasm.

It may be hard for you to beleive, but some of us up here in the Great White North DO have a sense of humor..... Just consider the fact that we choose to live in an area where the cost of heating is about ten times the cost of A/C

Steve
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-12-2005, 11:32 PM:
 
It takes a lot more than Brad's debating style to get me bent out of shape. If I said any more about that it'd affect the outcome of the discussion. More on that later if it is necessary.

****

Quality control issues are a whole different kettle of fish from design/operational issues. One who ends up with a defective batch of equipment will have a poor outlook on the product than one who ends up with a well-made batch. There's nothing you can do about that other than try to hold the manufacturer accountable.

The issue was that people were saying Potts platters are so bad as to be not fit for use. Several design faults were pointed out. I stipulated to most of them but I also pointed out other brands of platters which have similar faults. Further, I proposed that those who say a certain brand of equipment is bad before they have taken time to be sure that they are doing everything they way they should be are, themselves, as bad as they claim their equipment to be. At one point, you'll notice I even used ersatz tags... <humor> </humor>... to offset a potentially inflammatory statement.

Now we turn to quality control. It's unfortunate that a piece of equipment as well-designed as the Christie platter is should have QC issues the way it does. With all its flaws, the Potts (microswitch) platter has the advantage of a simpler, less complex design which doesn't depend on electronic circuit boards. Simpler design gives you, the manufacturer, the ability to have better QC. (I said ABILITY. Whether you follow through is a different subject.)

Potts platters are simpler in design, easier to build, easier to maintain quality control and, ultimately, if something does go wrong, easier to repair than virtually any brand out there.

Sometimes "cheap" has advantages.
 

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Posted by Chris Hipp (Member # 1788) on 02-13-2005, 12:13 AM:
 
I ran a 30 screen for 4-5 years with all strong DMC platters and had very few problems.

The only time that I had a platter go down completely was after a power outage that fried the take-up control board.

I had a few brains die but I had plenty of extras.

My only major complaint with them is the fins under the deck, the decks are too flimsy and they do not wind tight enough.

But, this is a thread about brain wraps, not platter preferences.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 02-13-2005, 02:19 AM:
 

quote: Brad Miller

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being EXACTLY level! If they are just a hair off, they will do that stupid backwards wrap thing. Get a level.....

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Exactly what I had to do at some theatres with plywood/composite floors. Since with this floor type, nothing is true level (even the machinery). One has to level Strongs, or "hello trouble with my microswitch brains".

One notices that the arms that the decks are mounted on are hindged on a central pivot. One can actually place a 1 inch diameter flat washer inbetween the back of the arm and the tower. This little shim trick can help get those decks as vertical level as possible. Lateral level can be obtained by shimming one or both of the front legs.

Funny why Strong (Custom Design and Manufacturing) doesn't put levelers on those two legs, as does Chrisite. Shoot, even LP-270's had levelers.

There are holes in the feet of the Strongs waiting for some kind of leveling devices....where are they?

Yep, outside of those sensor modules in the AW3(r)'s getting cranky and love to start shorting out causing "platter creep", get out your "platter tach" and tune these babies up and they'll run forever.

Another trick to cure "motor puck flat spots" for the CHR, was to wedge the motor away from the deck that isn't being used, until you get the ones that wouldn't go flat on you. Those rubber wedge style door stops makes great motor wedges..
-Monte
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-13-2005, 02:20 AM:
 
Actually, there ARE leveling feet on the Strongs. Lift one leg up and you will see them.
 

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Posted by Jim Ziegler (Member # 86) on 02-13-2005, 05:27 AM:
 
Soon enough we will all have DLPs and won't have to worry about such things... (just kidding.. drop the gun Brad)

Seriously, though, Patrick, you should look into getting a SPECO because they are a very stable platter and if you ever have an issue, SPECO is located right across the state line in downtown Kansas City, KS.
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-13-2005, 05:39 AM:
 
Haha, want to know the sad truth of the matter Jim? I would rather watch a DLP presentation than easily 95% of the 35mm presentations out there right now.
 

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Posted by Jim Ziegler (Member # 86) on 02-13-2005, 02:07 PM:
 
I hear ya there. The last movie I saw in a theatre that wasn't mine had, easily, 40 black lines start to finish over the entire width of the image... If I wasn't doing a competition check at the time I woudl have demanded a refund and left..
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 02-13-2005, 05:32 PM:
 

quote: Brad Miller

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Lift one leg up and you will see them.

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Whoops - sorry about that, Brad. I meant with the older Alpha Platters. I knew of the newer ones. - thx Monte
 

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Posted by Kevin Raisler (Member # 1761) on 02-14-2005, 01:32 AM:
 
I use Potts platters on 9 screens - Some of them old some new.
Personally I've found that if I change micro switches at intervals of 2 to 3 years I never have machine related brain wraps.
 

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