Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Question about Strong X-90 lamphouse blower

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Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 03-03-2005, 11:10 PM:

I have Strong X-90.The blower for the lamphouse is going. Its is a Dayton Model 9C956 blower which they don't make anymore. I am having trouble finding a replacement. Grainger had to send a request into their tech people to see what I could use instead.

So I waa hoping someone might know the model # for a new Dayton I could use or any other blower fo that matter.

Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 03-04-2005, 12:27 AM:

If the motor is going bad and it's a 115 volt one try motor # 3M777.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 03-04-2005, 03:52 AM:

The 3M777's about $45.00 at Grainger. Yet, good luck in getting that squirrel cage fan off, since this has to come off first before the housing can come off. They are buggers to get off at times.

Yet, there is a trick to revive these motors and that is to unclip the back of the motor off and reoil the felt pad that surrounds the bronze bushing, and also add oil to that bushing also. Also, one can take the squirrel fan casing off the front and then one can slide out the motor's rotor and then reoil the front pad and the bronze bushing also.

If the rotor doesn't come out very well or even is stuck, spray the front shaft to the bushing with WD-40. Let the WD-40 soak down into the bushing to slide out the shaft more easily. Then reassemble the motor ends and you actually have a new motor all over again.

I've done this trick to at least a half-dozen of these bulb end blower motors in the X-90 consoles on emergency calls when the bulb fails to strike.

(also, a side tip to present to all as well:)

If any of your theatres have the Cretor's PR32, or PR48 President Poppers, the Cornditioner's stove blower's motor is exactly this same kind of motor and can be taken apart and reoiled the same way..and please keep the air input screen in front of these blowers clear of the grease and dust, for this raises havoc with these motors. Also the big cabinet nacho chip warmers also have this basic same kind of blower motor.

-Monte

[ 03-04-2005, 05:10 AM: Message edited by: Monte L Fullmer ]

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-04-2005, 07:34 AM:

Blower motors will rarely fail if you oil them once or twice a year. This part of maintainance is probablay the most neglected by just about everyone. Most have easily accessable oil holes. Use 20 to 30 weight non-detergent motor oil. Synthetic is best because it will not evaporate noe get gummy. LaVezzi oil works pretty good for this and is available in small 6 oz. bottles.

Mark @ CLACO

Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 03-04-2005, 10:46 AM:

Yes, I beleive this is a case of neglecting to oil the blowers.But now it will be added to my maintence list for our 7 X-90's.

If Grainger cant find me an exact replacement i'm going to try the motor replacement using Monte's tips(Ken thanks again to always having the timely answer to any Strong/Grainger parts related question)

Monte we actualy have a Cretor's PR32, so thanks for that added tip.

Posted by Jim Ziegler (Member # 86) on 03-04-2005, 02:37 PM:

The last time I had one blow and called Granger, they told me that the part number indicated that it was a special item only manufactured for one client - in this case Strong. I had no porblem getting one from Strong. To get by until I got it, I had a spare blower for the popcorn popper laying around and Macguyvered that in and it worked just fine. OF course, now I have a spare on had too, so I don't have to worry about it..

Posted by Richard May (Member # 2627) on 03-04-2005, 07:43 PM:

Anyone ever notice that the oil hole on the X-90 consoles blowers are on the bottom. That sucks!!!

Posted by Rick Long Jr (Member # 541) on 03-04-2005, 08:19 PM:

You can reverse the motor so the oil holes are up, IF you can get the squirrel cage off!

Posted by Richard May (Member # 2627) on 03-04-2005, 08:30 PM:

I know. Just thought I'd mention the stupid design. [Smile]

Posted by Alexander Smith (Member # 1769) on 03-06-2005, 10:25 AM:

This has actually been mentioned before on F-T, although
I don't seem to be able to find the thread right now.

On my own modest web-pages I cover the prodecure to
re-orient the blower motor here:

http://homepages.enterprise.net/alexsmith/projection/Tips_StrongMod.html

The most critical bit is having a Torx T20 long-reach
driver to remove the impellor, and having to drill
another hole in the blower housing for the earth strap.
It's really straight forward otherwise.

Alex.

Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 03-06-2005, 12:06 PM:

It looks to me like currently made Grainger # 1C982 Blower Assembly should work as a complete replacement.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 03-06-2005, 04:18 PM:

quote: Alexander Smith
Torx T20 long-reach
driver to remove the impellor...

...course, we know that Torx and Allen are closely related in a form, so where I don't have that long bladed TORX, I've managed to pop that lockscrew sith an Allen wrench with very little problems. But, if tha lockscrew is too tight for the allen, I do have some Torx blades, the short verson, placed that blade in the socket and popped them loose using pliers on that Torx blade.

..little help there.

-Monte

Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 03-08-2005, 01:40 PM:

The Grainger # 1C982 Blower Assembly has rpm's of 1570 and the
blower already in the X-90 and the replacement 3M777 have rpm's around 3000.

Now since I am primary concerned with the amount of airflow over the bulb will the lower rpm's mean less airflow?

I cant find the airflow rating on the one already in so i don't know what it is supposed to be.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 03-08-2005, 11:59 PM:

quote: Stephen Frazza
and the replacement 3M777 have rpm's around 3000

done many of the 3M777 changeouts without any problem of airflow. Forget about the one with the lower RPM, just stick with the 3M777 motor.
Remember, the airflow is to do two things: 1- the keep the safety interlock switch's "sailfin" up in the cathode exhaust hole and 2-to aid in cooling and keeping the end seals within a certain temperature range (that's what that white 'goop' is between the quartz and the metal.

Maximum temperature for the 2k bulbs ends in a X-90 which is in Celcius, is 250 degrees C) This, plus the stack fan's exhaust will keep things cool enough for proper end seal temperature limits.

You won't have any problems.

-Monte

Posted by Stephen Frazza (Member # 2320) on 03-14-2005, 03:16 AM:

I just changed out one with the motor # 3M777.It was no problem at all.I didn't need a Torx wrench either.The impellor came off pretty easy with just an allen key.

1 question about the new motor though;
It didn't seem to have any holes for oil nor did it say to add oil every 6 months like the old one did.So am I right in assuming it doesn't need to be oiled?