Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Moving small prints

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Posted by James Faber (Member # 2796) on 03-10-2005, 02:53 PM:

I was just wondering the best way to move a small print. only about 40 minutes long. However, I have a small time frame, and don't want to have to break it down and build it back up again. I fear my clamps will not be able to close over the film since it is not that large. Should i just try to break it down and build it back up, or is there a good way to move it?

Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 03-10-2005, 03:33 PM:

If you don't want to spool it off to a 6,000 foot reel you should think about using a "donut".

Cut a circle of Masonite or thin plywood (edges sanded smooth) that's the same size as your platter. Cut a hole in the center that's big enough for the brain to go through. Drill some small holes in the correct position for the pins of the center ring to go through. Put that onto the takeup platter when showing the movie for the last showing before the move. (Adjust the film height if necessary.) When it's time to move, two guys simply pick up the plywood donut with the print on it. Because of the small holes, the center ring is held in place and the print stays positioned. Carry it to the new location and thread up as usual. When the show's over the empty donut will be left behind. Pick it up and put it away for the next use.

If you're careful you could put a print on a donut into the back of your car and drive it across town to another theater and it'll be OK. (Just cover it with plastic or something to keep it clean and dry.

However, if the print is only 40 minutes long, the safest way to move it is to reel it onto a 6,000 footer. If you have the MUT all ready to go at show's end it'll only take you a short time.

Posted by James R. Hammonds, Jr (Member # 673) on 03-10-2005, 03:48 PM:

EDIT: Randy finished his post before I did and explained it better than I did.

Posted by Peter Mork (Member # 1336) on 03-10-2005, 04:35 PM:

If your platter winds snugly enough, you should just be able to tape down the tail and lift the thing off with no clamps. You'll know when you start lifting it whether it'll hold or not - if not, there's the method above, or the old cookie sheet.

Posted by Jim Ziegler (Member # 86) on 03-10-2005, 08:58 PM:

If you have some soft foam laying around in your booth you can put it between the edge ofthe print and the back of the clamp.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 03-11-2005, 04:20 AM:

Yeah, make you a "pizza board" (if your good with woodworking).

Get a sheet of 1/4" thick plywood, cut the thing down to 36x32 inches. Take a length of 2x4, cut it to the length of the 32 inches, then cut a circular cutout, with the circle going 2 inches into the width of the 2x4 in the middle to accept the curvature of the film wind. Then drywall screw this 2x4 at the 32 inch end of the plywood, and you have a "pizza board" print mover.

Beat's the hell out of using the clamps, for with the clamps, they love to cut the crap out of the surfaces of the aluminum deck surfaces. Whereas the boards won't do any scratching and gouging of the platter decks. And the print doesn't want to "flop" all over you when the clamps let go unexpectedly when the print is on the board.

-Monte

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 03-11-2005, 05:23 AM:

If you make the boards out of wood or MASONITE, be sure to finish the surfaces so they don't splinter or cause dusting. Prefinished laminate paneling (e.g., FORMICA) can provide a smooth surface material.

Posted by Brandon Willis (Member # 2345) on 03-11-2005, 08:46 AM:

I have a small list of things I refuse to do when working the booth, and moving a built-up print, no matter how big or tight it is, without someone else helping me is #1 on that list.

Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 03-11-2005, 09:04 AM:

If you have actual reel arms with spindles (as opposed to the "stick" things that just have rollers), why not just run the film off 6000' reels? You will likely need to get a Roundthane takeup belt and move some rollers out of the way, but that seems like the easiest method of doing what you want.

Another possibility would be to rewind the print from the platter onto a 6000' reel after the first show, then feed the print off the makeup table, through the projector, and take it up onto the platter in another house for the second show. It's easier done than said, but vertical makeup tables (such as the Christie model) can be used to feed the projector if positioned strategically. Be sure that roller alignment is maintained to avoid damaging the film.

I agree, though, that the cookie sheet method is the best, and moving the print without clamps/cookie sheet would probably work fine for something that short, assuming your platters take up tightly.

Posted by Mark J. Marshall (Member # 1409) on 03-11-2005, 09:48 AM:

40 minutes? As in two reels?

Out of curiosity, what print is that?

Posted by James Faber (Member # 2796) on 03-12-2005, 03:30 AM:

It was, "The Truth About Beef Jerky". We were having a short film festival, and we weren't sure which auiditruim this film was going to be in, so I built it up and screen it on the most likely one, but it turned out I was wrong. It was the only film that was actually on film, all the rest were done with an LCD.

P.S. I ended up having a co-worker and myself just pick it and take it to the next screen without any clamps. It was only about 15 ft, so I wasn't too worried about it. Thanks for your help, guys.