Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Bearings for Simplex 35

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Posted by Ian Bailey (Member # 1752) on 07-01-2005, 08:17 AM:

I need to replace the bearings in a Simplex 35 model 1050 projector head.I would like to have the bearings on hand before the job is started.Would anyone be able to supply me with the "bearing numbers" so i can get them from my local bearing supplier.
Is the bearing on the end of the shutter shaft the only one that needs to have a sealed bearing?
THX
Ian

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-02-2005, 02:27 AM:

Hi Ian - as for the bearing code number for the rebuild, I can't help you on that.

But the end bearing for the shutter shaft needs to be unsealed to stay lubricated with the oil spray.

Actually, all of the bearings on that vertical shaft needs to be the unsealed variety so they can be contunually lubricated with the oil mist/spray (except the lower bearing in the vertical shaft-the lower seal can stay in place, but the top seal needs to be removed for the lubrication..)

thx-Monte

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-02-2005, 09:24 AM:

Actually all the bearings except the back shutter bearing should not have any seals. If you can't get unsealed bearings, some distributers don't stock them, then just carefully pry the seals off with a small screwdriver. I may have a cross refrence list in my service van and will look later. For starters the main drive shaft take 6201's. Also, when you replace that lower shaft bearing do not over-tighten the clamp part of the casting that retains it in place. This will distort the bearing and possibly crack the casting itself..... This is VERY easy to crack!

Pot metal they are [Roll Eyes]

!

Mark

Posted by Ian Bailey (Member # 1752) on 07-03-2005, 07:42 AM:

Sorry Monte i meant the back shutter bearing that Mark mentioned.Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the info Mark,I'll try and be easy on it!
Mark don't worry about the bearing numbers as I've ordered a full set from Ed Walk.If the bearings are sealed is it advisable to remove any grease lubricant from the bearing before installing it?
Thx
Ian

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-03-2005, 10:36 AM:

quote: Ian Bailey
If the bearings are sealed is it advisable to remove any grease lubricant from the bearing before installing it?

No, You may see some grease globs on the back window though. These will enevtually disappear through use and oil changes and won't hurt a thing. You may also want to consider a main drive shaft seal kit while you're doing the overhaul. This allows you to increase the amount of oil in the machine X3.

BTW: On the main drive shaft bearings just remove the inner shield. No need to pull both of them off.

Mark

Posted by Aaron Sisemore (Member # 145) on 07-03-2005, 02:01 PM:

Only problem is that if the machine is older (pre-1990, square-tooth belts), the oil seal upgrade gets mighty expensive, as the only pulleys available from Ballantyne for the job are of the metric (round tooth belt) variety. Thus one would not only have to upgrade the projector pulley, but all other pulleys in the main drive (soundhead, etc).

I don't believe this kit is even available for gear-driven machines...

-Aaron

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-03-2005, 10:09 PM:

quote: Aaron Sisemore
I don't believe this kit is even available for gear-driven machines...

Indeed it is available for Simplex and RCA gear drives from Strong, I've installed a bunch of them over the last few years. The kit cones with the new gear which has a finely ground O.D. where the seal lip rides. You're right on the square tooth thingy though.... may also involve a new sync motor.... better yet a vari-speed Baldor drive.... Its ALOT less expensive for the latter.

Mark

Posted by Randy Bowden (Member # 587) on 07-07-2005, 04:51 PM:

The part number for the square tooth seal kit is G-9805. List price off of the current 2005 price list is 111.20

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-08-2005, 06:29 PM:

Yes Randy...

I just don't promote the use of them as I would rather at that point at least get the projector drive belt and pulleys converted over to round tooth. The square tooth stuff just doesn't hold up as well and makes for more belt crap generated than the round tooth stuff does.....

Mark

Posted by Randy Bowden (Member # 587) on 07-11-2005, 05:44 PM:

Mark,

I definitely agree with you, the round tooth stuff is way better. I'm curious though, if you upgrade to the round tooth set up, does that mean you have to upgrade to an 1800rpm sync motor as well? or will it work with the 1725 induction style motor?