This is topic Exhaust Fan Wiring in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Barry Floyd (Member # 385) on 08-16-2005, 03:06 PM:
I just bought a new Dayton Exhaust fan/blower for my new projection booth and I'm having a little trouble hooking up the wiring.
I pulled the plate off the back of the motor and moved the spade lugs to the right positions inside the motor housing as indicated on the motor plate. The label on the outside of the motor just shows what configuration they need to be in order to run the motor clock-wise or counter-clockwise, and shows two lines + ground coming into the motor. All is wired up correctly as far as I can tell. When I applied power to the pigtail leads, it ran almost 30 seconds before it started smoking. It ain't rocket science, but I sure don't want to burn out a $200.00 fan motor by trial and error. It's a Grainger "Dayton" brand fan and motor.
Anybody got a clue as how to hook up one of these things?
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-16-2005, 03:34 PM:
Threre should Be two terminals in ther for push on spade lugs or two nuts that you would use some crmp connectors under. On large motors I've never seen one with pig tails. Call Graingers as they have a good tech assistance hot line.....
Mark
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 08-19-2005, 05:07 PM:
Barry; I suspect you have a very small blower and so Mark's comments don't seem to apply. The CORRECT blower; his remarks are dead on. Call me Monday and I will give you the correct Grainger number.
(Prob. will help bulb life also, especially in Kneisleys.)
Louis
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-20-2005, 10:16 AM:
There was another thread just on this subject a while back but couldn't find it so here are the correct blowers to use assuming that you can mount them indoors...... I hate those roof mounted belt drive "Mushroom" blowers...... The belts only break on the hottest summer day of the year(or during blizzard cinditions in the winter) when you have a sold out house!
The Grainger 7C037 up to 1.6KW
" " 7C038 up to 3KW
" " 7C647 up to 7KW
Just use the search engine at the grainger web site to find em.
Hope this helps!
Mark
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 08-20-2005, 10:32 AM:
Mark: I remember removing one of those mushroom blowers at 10 degrees on a 45% roof on ice. (We tied extension ladders to a rope thrown over the theatre and secured to my car.) The blower numbers you listed are perfect. Not only are they inside where they belong but alsothey are easily repaired in an emergency with almost any old motor....Louis
Posted by Barry Floyd (Member # 385) on 08-22-2005, 02:08 PM:
Took a trip up in the attic over the weekend and pulled the model number off the motor that's already up there for screen 1. Model number is exactly the same except for the last letter.
The existing motor has only 2 wires inside, 1 red, 1 black, and two bolts to mount the incoming power leads to.
I guess I'll make a trip back to Nashville and swap out the new motor for the correct part number.
Louis... I'm ready for that AP3 platter. I'll send you a photo of my existing MUT connections.
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 10-27-2007, 03:22 PM:
It has been 796 days since the last post.
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 10-27-2007, 03:22 PM:
OK.......now that Grainger has outsourced my favorite motor to China, what do I use?? 3 of 7 have failed since April. Louis
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 10-27-2007, 10:15 PM:
I have had several fail but not in that short of time period. You can purchase just the blower housing and parts and then outsource a BB motor like I do. I think its a GE H-700 but without looking it up at the office I'm not 100% sure, am sitting in the middle of the desert right now. I believe there is only one motor available any more that is BB. We had miserable luck with the latest batch of Grainer pump motors... there are no oil holes any longer. We have since gone to another manufacurers magnetic drive pump. The "make it cheap in China" thing is certainly backfiring on many manufacturers these days ![[thumbsup]](graemlins/thumbsup.gif)
.
Mark
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 10-27-2007, 10:50 PM:
Grainger is always my last choice for blowers since most are sleeve bearing; even with the oil holes, who remembers to do this, twice a year typical, oiling PM (or staff to do the chore). There are lamphouse manufacturers who mount these to make oiling a chore or have gravity thrust on the motor shaft.
I prefer EBM Papst product, they cost more with the majority BB with a flywheel effect motor that lasts forever.
The worst exhaust situation I had was a drive in theater with an inline attic type exhaust fan. The carbon soot would choke the motor 3 - 4 times a year....the owner refused to convert to a squirrel cage set up ![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 10-28-2007, 09:39 AM:
Thanks, Mark.
Richard: I had several like that. My only consolation was that as a dealer, I made PROFIT on the replacement reflectors. My choice, however, was to have a good long life on the reflector with a proper blower. This was not to be since the customer "knew better." Louis
Posted by Bill Enos (Member # 440) on 10-28-2007, 08:39 PM:
Anybody tried the Elicent line of inline centrifugal fans? We installed one on the exhaust of each of our Kneisley lamps, they solved the excess heat problems, move around 700 cfm, compact, and fairly quiet, all ball bearing, no pricier than the Grainger stuff listed above. In use for 2 1/2 years no issues.
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 10-28-2007, 11:34 PM:
The Italian Elicent is fine. The American (Sarasota, Florida) Fantech are equal or better (EBM Papst BB flywheel rotor motor). We have many of these in operation.
Posted by Stephen Furley (Member # 1277) on 10-29-2007, 02:15 AM: