This is topic Screens of 80 foot width... in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 04-19-2006, 11:01 PM:
Hello everyone (I'm sort of back).
Now, before you get on my back about "screen envy" or "you don't need a screen that big", just think of these questions as hypothetical.
How is an 80' screen possible?
We know multiplexes use the more sideways rectangle design. We know they like short throws and focal lengths.
What kind of throw would you be looking at, and would 600 seats sound reasonable? What xenon wattage would be acceptable and what equipment would be best for the most heat reduction/brightest image, etc.
Posted by Bobby Henderson (Member # 840) on 04-20-2006, 12:11 AM:
quote: Andrew McCrea
How is an 80' screen possible?
Build a big enough structure and it is possible. Such a screen size is getting into IMAX territory, but it is possible to build -at least from a structural standpoint.
quote: Andrew McCrea
What kind of throw would you be looking at, and would 600 seats sound reasonable?
I couldn't tell you the numbers in terms of distance amount and angle from screen. But I have seen some IMAX theaters project what seemed like a very short throw only over maybe 20 rows of seats to a very oversized screen. 35mm projection is different, naturally. 600 seats is do-able. For a 80' wide screen you could triple that seat count.
quote: Andrew McCrea
What xenon wattage would be acceptable and what equipment would be best for the most heat reduction/brightest image, etc.
This is the real "nut cutting" point.
Opinions vary on how much real light ouput is capable from a 35mm lamphouse. Some say as little as 4000 watts. Others may push the total up to 6K or 7K. At either level, you're under budget for a 80' wide screen. You need something on the order of a 10,000 watt lamp to hit 16 foot lamberts at center and 12 foot lamberts at the edge on a 80' wide screen. 70mm projection is the only commercial projection format which can manage that.
Posted by Thomas Hauerslev (Member # 566) on 04-20-2006, 01:03 AM:
The worlds largest screen in 1996 - 40 meters (131 feet)
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 04-20-2006, 06:00 AM:
80 ft screens do not tolerate fools easily. There is an old letter from Strong showing that lumens above 4000 watts does not increase (with that reflector) unless you go to 70mm.
A curved, gain screen is mandatory. Super 80 lamp/JJ projector/Schneider lens, new Hurley Superglo and a "3/4" radius curve on the screen. 16 fl/flat 22 fl/scope 28 fl/70mm Theatre was 950 rocking (big) seats, Cinerama design; angles were PERFECT. Louis
Posted by Steve Scott (Member # 630) on 04-20-2006, 10:40 AM:
In Minneapolis there are four 80 ft. (give or take) monsters. Carmike has two of them in their 15-plexes on the north & south sides of the metro, Marcus has their Ultrascreen on the northeast side of St. Paul, and Mullers just finished their "monster screen" at my old home Lakeville.
The Carmike machines run 4.5 or 5K bulbs (I think) with basic Christie machines. The results are shaky, scratched & for years the digital sound wouldn't kick over. Sadly, these were the only THX houses too.
I haven't seen Lakeville's new monster yet. I'd heard installers were trying to talk up a JJ/cinefocus setup on a 4.5K bulb, but Muller ended up going with an SA brought down from the White Bear Township theatre & some German 6K bulb. A QSC tri-amp crossover was also supposed to be installed behind the screen. The cinefocus setup also went by the wayside. I've heard good things, but I thought they'd drop the 'monster screen' billing from their ads. It's a circus in the suburbs.
Marcus has a good setup with a Kinoton machine, not sure of the bulb. Some coworkers of mine saw Serenity there & only complained about the fader being set too low for such a setup. They are THX triamped.
Most of these auditoria have a square design, rather than being long & narrow. I don't like these. It gives an IMAX, right up there effect, unless you're toward the back of the house, which just doesn't sit right with me for 35mm.
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 04-20-2006, 12:52 PM:
To give some idea of the challenge of lighting an 80-foot wide screen properly, with typical 35mm projection efficiencies, a matte white (gain=1) screen would need close to a 15,000 watt lamp to light a 80 X 33.5 foot screen --- of course, if there were such a lamphouse, the 0.825 X 0.690 inch frame of 35mm film would suffer severe heat damage.
In practice, a 6K or 7K lamp with an efficient optical system and very efficient heat filter, a water cooled gate, high efficiency lens, and properly curved/tilted high gain screen may barely get you to the low end of the tolerance allowed by standard SMPTE 196M.
This is really a job for 70mm film!!!
Posted by Scott Jentsch (Member # 1681) on 04-20-2006, 04:57 PM:
Instead of trying for a single 80' screen, I wish theaters would install more screens that were in the 50'-55' range.
There are far too many 26-footers, which are just too small to make the kind of impact going to the movies should provide. Unless that 26-footer is going to be in a nicely-appointed screening room type of environment, it's too small!
If your theater is considering installing a monster screen, talk them out of it and tell them to take the money they would spend and upgrade all of their auditoriums.
Having one huge one also makes the 26-footers in the other rooms look really tiny...
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 04-20-2006, 07:22 PM:
Typical "warehouse" and shopping center building typically have 30 - 31 foot spans between roof support pads = 26 foot screen with an exit door
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 04-20-2006, 09:37 PM:
quote: Scott Jentsch
If your theater is considering installing a monster screen, talk them out of it and tell them to take the money they would spend and upgrade all of their auditoriums.
This is just personal interest, and what I asked people not to say.
I want to know how any theatre could do a 35mm screen in a width of 80'. Kind of with the short throw, etc. that's common in a multiplex.
So, what I've gathered:
-around 6 or 7kw.
-very efficient optical system (what's this?).
-very efficient heat filter.
-water and air cooled gate.
-high efficiency lens (Isco RED Ultra-Star HD PLUS?).
-high gain screen (what kind of gain?).
-screen properly curved and tilted.
Is this a job for Kinoton? I've heard really good things about the steadiness of their projectors and the efficiency/output of their lamphouses.
Then, I've also heard Christie mentioned as well, and someone even said something about it in this post.
Posted by Matthew Bailey (Member # 601) on 04-20-2006, 10:19 PM:
A white laser type lamphouse would be ideal for an 80 foot scrren for 35mm but one of the limitations would be image grain. Lasers would produce little or no heat unlike xenon or carbon arcs.
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 04-20-2006, 10:34 PM:
What's a laser type lamphouse?
Posted by Bobby Henderson (Member # 840) on 04-20-2006, 11:10 PM:
Laser Lamphouse???
Is that like a new version of that mirror covered ball they used to put in discos?
The big Cine Capris auditorium at Harkins Bricktown 16 in Oklahoma City puts out about as bright an image I've seen 35mm throw onto a giant sized screen. That screen measures 70' across and about 30' in height. A Kinoton projector is used in that booth (probably with a 7000 watt lamp, liquid cooled gate, custom reflector, etc.). I'm sure Harkins has tried hard to get as bright an image onto that screen as possible with 35mm gear. Yet it is just a tad dim for my liking. 5 perf 70mm would do a much better job.
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 04-20-2006, 11:50 PM:
Do they actually make prints that are printed a tad lighter for very large screens, or is this just an industry myth?
I'm glad I'm not the only one who doesn't know what that is.
Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 04-21-2006, 12:50 AM:
There's a company called Technilite or something similar who claim to have developed a proprietary bulb/reflector system that increases light output by 1/3 more. It is being installed primarily in light-starved Drive-ins where an 80 foot screen is nothing out of the ordinary. Of course they don't get near the 16fl goal either; in fact, the SMPTE gave up that goal and only aims for 12ftl. Nor do DIs have the advantage of high gain screens (they paint corrigated steel or plywood with white paint -- gain of 1.0 at best).
So seeminly if DIs can get viewable pictures on those mamouth screens with whatever new technology this Technilite uses, it is conceivable that an indoor with the advantages it has of controllable ambient light, high gain screen properly curved and tilted, an 80 footer should be do-able. But then again, at what cost in image degradation due to such extreme magnification, especially if you a pushing seats up right up to the screen at the same distances that those shoebox theatres do, in other words, way WAY to close. Theatre designers seem to put those first rows at the same insanely close distance with total disregard to the screen size, matter if it is a 25ft screen or a 60ft screen -- the first rows are almost never at the SMPTE recommended distance, which is supposed to be determined by the screen size, not how close they can get the first row and still let people pass across it.
Knocking down the screen size in this hypothetical new build to 65 or 70 feet might move it enough away from the everything-is-super-critical-and-right-on-the-edge-of-scorching-the-film, and into the realm of reasonable. Wouldn't it be better to have a slightly smaller screen with a noticably superior image than a monster screen with a mediocre image?
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 04-21-2006, 08:56 AM:
For screening rooms, standard SMPTE 196M specifies the preferred viewing distance is between 2 and 4 times the height of the image. So for a 20 X 48 foot screen, the preferred viewing distance is between 40 and 80 feet from the screen, along the centerline of the theatre. Of course, most theatres have additional seats closer than this distance, and farther than this distance.
quote: Andrew McCrea
Do they actually make prints that are printed a tad lighter for very large screens, or is this just an industry myth?
Yes, in some cases, "Drive-In Prints" have been made for drive-ins or theatres with huge screens, with the print balance a few printer points lighter in density for theatres that are known to fall well below the SMPTE aim of 16 footlamberts. In actuality, you are compromising the image quality of the print --- a light print will have washed out highlights and more "milky" shadows.
Fortunately, it is not done frequently, as "dual inventories" of different density prints is hard to manage.
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 04-21-2006, 09:41 AM:
Maybe we need "a light amplifying crystal." Louis
Posted by Brian Guckian (Member # 1678) on 04-21-2006, 06:47 PM:
80ft for 35mm is a no-no as it really exceeds the design capacity of the format.
As has been pointed out, illuminating that size screen is extremely problematic and you have excessive heat energy problems, but you also have tremendous magnification of grain, jump and weave.
60ft on 'Scope is a good maximum for 35mm. Even then, you need high-wattage lamps with water cooling, a gain screen, preferably an electronic intermittent and top-of-the-range lenses and port glass too!
We're lucky to have a cinema here in Dublin (Cineworld) with a Kinoton FP30E and all of these additional features. Tremendous presentation quality, but it is at the limit and at this size and up 70mm "is your only man", as they say here!
quote: Richard Fowler
Typical "warehouse" and shopping center building typically have 30 - 31 foot spans between roof support pads = 26 foot screen with an exit door
Just on that point, I think this is a good argument as to why we should go back to stand alone cinemas. One of the downsides of tying them in to shopping developments has been the impact on design.
Posted by Ron Curran (Member # 3631) on 04-21-2006, 11:05 PM:
“Never mind the quality, feel the width.”
Like it or not, monster screens are a sales gimmick. There is a section of the market that seeks out the biggest screens, just as there is a market for films on miniscule mobile phone screens.
Some of those monster screens are constant width!
You can fool some of the people all of the time.
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 04-22-2006, 02:02 PM:
Yes, its more of a sales gimmick.
So, say you're going with a Kinoton common booth:
-FP30E Projector
-Universal Lampenhouse (7kw- highly efficient optical system?)
-ST200E Platter
And you use a Kinoton Air/Water cooler. Would you put antifreeze coolant in the circulated path?
I'd imagine it would require extra ventilation. Can you get a stronger blower on the lamphouse, and what about an auxillary blower?
Then, you throw it on to a high gain (2.0) perforated screen, that is curved. It would then be tilted so that the top is closer to th audience then the bottom?
Posted by John Vincent, Jr. (Member # 1791) on 04-22-2006, 07:43 PM:
"Yes, in some cases, "Drive-In Prints" have been made for drive-ins or theatres with huge screens..."
Actually I see more DI prints come through every year. They call them IMAX prints, why, I don't know.
Even though our screen is 100ft, from the majority of spots in the DI field the screen image takes up less space in your vision than an average 30' screen does in an indoor. Therefore, the finer details are not as important in DI's.
As a side note it is too bad 70mm went by the wayside, I would love to slap Century JJ heads on our Ashcraft Carbon Arc projectors and see what image I get.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-23-2006, 12:36 PM:
The reason they are reffered to as IMAX prints is that they are intended for 35mm presentations in IMAX theatres where getting enough light can be a challenge
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-23-2006, 02:06 PM:
Which is why many Imax 35mm's have had the Technilight conversions done to them. And I have to say that after seeing a 6 screen D.I. converted to the Technilight system it really does work... and without having to buy new lenses. Of course new lenses will also help out a little more. The Redwood Drive In in Salt Lake City on all 6 screens now has light levels well with in SMPTE specs for indoor screens!
quote: Louis Bornwasser
Maybe we need "a light amplifying crystal." Louis
I think those were made bu the Krell People... but alas they now only make fine audio gear
.
Mark
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-23-2006, 02:49 PM:
which is no big deal as the kinoton or the ernamann lamphouses all do that right out of the box
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-23-2006, 02:53 PM:
quote: Gordon McLeod
which is no big deal as the kinoton or the Ernamann lamphouses all do that right out of the box
And I forgot to mention that his conversion is about 1/5th the cost of a Kinoton or Ernemann lamphouse, and about 1/3 the cost of a 7kw SLH.
Actually the kinoton and ernemann won't outperform it... Talk to Paul Rayton at the Egyptian Theatre about that, they replaced the Kinotons with Christie SLH. Talk to James Bond at Full Aperature in Chicago, he runs the Technilight kit installed IN his Kinoton lamphouses, and also ask Bob Destolphi at Ultraflat as well. While YOU might not like Robert his system does indeed work and I look forword to it showing up on more screens around this area in the near future!
Mark
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 04-23-2006, 10:43 PM:
Do you get more light out of a metal reflector, or a glass reflector?
I know there's a choice for most lamphouses. Which is the way to go and why is that particular one preferred?
And thanks for all of your participation!
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 04-24-2006, 04:33 PM:
Ok, so I searched around and found that glass mirrors are preferred.
I'm guessing the optical system is the lenses...
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 04-25-2006, 11:15 AM:
With a dichroic coating on glass/pyrex reflector, the IR goes through to a heat sink located behind the mirror. With a dichroic coating on a metal mirror, the metal itself is the heatsink. Unless the metal is kept cool by sufficient air flow, the metal mirror heats up, reducing the efficiency of its IR reduction.
You can further reduce the IR by using BOTH a dichroic mirror, and an additional dichroic heat filter that reflects any remaining IR to a heat sink.
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