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Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 05-11-2006, 09:34 PM:
So, maybe its obvious that I'm (attempting) writing a business plan for a small town.
I want to at first put stereo sound in, to cut back opening such a small theatre. As part of the "Future Services" section, I want to put things like, digital sound, nachos/hot dogs, and eventually a third screen.
With a CP45 processor (chance to upgrade later), do you just need that running off the XLs soundhead, with two amps running the left and right channel behind the screen?
Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 05-11-2006, 10:47 PM:
I would go with a CP65 (or 55 if you cant find a used 65) and 4 2-Channel amplifiers Left Stage, Center Stage, Right Stage, Right Surround, Left Surround, and Sub. Even if you dont have sub, I find it easiest to wire in the amp and stage runs so that you can just drop the sub in later (you will need it for digital). Also, If you use a 55 that isnt modified for split surrounds I would still wire left and right surrounds on seperate amp channels and parallel the outputs from the 55 again, to make it easier to upgrade later. You can then (if you have a 65) drop in a DTS, DA20. If you wanted too you could add in a SDDS system (I dont know why you would want to...) as it hangs on the end of the processor and not have to modify the 55 (not the best option) With a 55 you can add the DTS or DA20 with a few modifications/upgrades. Also, dont forget about adding a DMA8 if you plan to do video/multimedia presentations.
Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-13-2006, 12:19 AM:
For "stereo" you need 3 screen channels minimum, a sub-bass and stereo surrounds are standard in cinemas as well.
A CP45 is a good basic processor. The SR decoder is "true Dolby SR" and sounds much better than most competitors' SR emulation. It's complete, compact, and has basic EQ and screen channel 2-way electronic crossovers built in.
You connect the stereo cells on the soundheads to the CP45 inputs and connect amps and speakers to the CP45 outputs. You also need some simple control logic and wiring to do sound changeovers. You don't need much anything else.
Posted by Bobby Henderson (Member # 840) on 05-13-2006, 12:28 AM:
As spoiled as most movie viewers are to 5.1 surround sound, I would try really hard to get 5.1 playback in the chain as quickly as possible.
I don't know if you're putting together a 1st run theater or a bargain/2nd run house or approaching a different niche. IMHO, DTS usually works fine for playback if you're a first run house and get the discs regularly. Unfortunately, after 1st run many of the CDs tend to disappear. You ask for "CDs" and the guy on the other end of the phone line is likely to say "CDs nuts!"
If the discs would manage to stay with the print 100% of the time (or if the Hollywood studios would pull their heads out of their backsides and allow authorized theaters to download and burn DTS CD-ROM images to disc) then DTS would be a really great solution for 2nd run because of its great reliability on playback. But since the studios don't want to do anything that makes any bit of sense you're pretty much stuck with buying a Dolby Digital system and hoping the print is in good enough shape to keep the error rate on playback above an acceptable level to prevent dropouts to analog.
Posted by Matt Fields (Member # 3211) on 05-13-2006, 12:39 AM:
My 2 cents...reguardless of your processor, bi-amp your stage speakers. - Matt
Posted by Carl Martin (Member # 1146) on 05-13-2006, 04:26 AM:
quote: Dave Macaulay
A CP45 is a good basic processor. The SR decoder is "true Dolby SR" and sounds much better than most competitors' SR emulation.
are the quotes supposed to indicate that it is in fact not true dolby sr? for this would be the cat 222 "sr"/a card that nobody really likes, right?
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 05-13-2006, 08:15 AM:
Yup, the Cat 222 SR/A is not true SR but a dual "S" (consumer grade) and mistracks horribly. The best analog emulator to the Cat. 280 is the Panastereo CM353. The best digital emulator is the CP650 by far. In fact, all of the digital emulations I've heard of the SR system really do suck.
If you want a good basic stereo system to start, the CSP1200 or CP650SR are my processors of choice. If you are planning on Dolby Digital later, the CP650SR makes the most sense...if you are planning on DTS Digital, then the CSP1200 is the better choice.
Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-15-2006, 09:56 AM:
Yes. The 222 is not equal to the cat280s but it sounds better than other emulators I've experienced. Sony isn't an option now (except for masochists, I guess) but the 3000 emulation was about the worst. I haven't come across an XD10P yet but the SR emulation could only be improved from the nasty 6AD.
The problems with getting DTS disks on second run - basically it's a continuing hassle, yell enough and you get them for a while then they start going missing again - mean SRD is somehwat better. SRD data is more susceptible to damage than the DTS time code (nearly indestructible) but I haven't seen a lot of unplayable prints.
If you're buying used equipment, a CP45 and DA20 (if you can find one) with a 70x/BACP or basement reader makes sense. New, the cost of a CP45 plus the DA20 is comparable to a CP650D which has better SR, is more flexible, and offers SMPTE/EBU digital inputs as an option. The CP650SR (no digital cards) is more than a CP45 but you get more, and the digital cards are less than a DA20.
The Panastereo CSP1200 is a great unit. The SR is excellent with the Panastereo cards, the Smart 280 emulators are lots less excellent, or you can use real CAT280 cards if you have them. For SRD the cost gets up there with a CP650D if you add a DA20 though, and the 1200 doesn't have EX capability as far as I know (if you care about EX).
Posted by Steve Scott (Member # 630) on 05-15-2006, 12:25 PM:
The 222 just sounds too messy in the higher dynamics. If you're gonna stay serious about the possibility of digital the CP65 will be a good investment. Nice power supply & easy hookup with a DA-20. Ours' drives a full 3 channel set of Klipsch Lascala behind the screen off QSC USA-900 amps & the analog sounds better than some of the digital systems in the new multiplexes. Ultra Stereo made a JS model that could do stereo front w/ surrounds, but I've never heard it installed. Front-surround with the right speakers & proper EQ will fool plenty everyday-folks into thinking you've got digital, if they even care. Just try to get a good sounding setup that doesn't swallow any huge dynamic gaps.
Posted by Matt Fields (Member # 3211) on 05-15-2006, 12:42 PM:
Here's what I did at my small town theatre and I think it sounds okay:
1. Bought a used CP 55.
2. Bought BACP sound reader.
3. Mod #1 to CP 55: Replaced Cat 221 with Cat. 441 for split surrounds.
4. Mod #2 to CP 55: Added SRA 5 with Cat 280t cards and modified diodes to make 03 setting SR. This can found in the DA 20 manual here on film-tech.
5. Added DTS 6.
This was relatively inexpensive to do because I got good deals on the DTS and the SR cards. I wanted 6 track digital sound with a good SR backup at a low cost. You can buy all this stuff and have the mods made for way less then a CP650. Be patient and shop around for good deals.
Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 05-15-2006, 04:04 PM:
Andrew,
quote:
If I had it to do over, I'd have saved-up a little longer and started with the top system, but that's just because I am kind of a sound nut... at the time I had to balance my economic situation with my huge desire to get us into the 20th century, soundwise.
Mike Blakesley
This is a quite common emotion when buying anything. Most times when you make that compromise at the beginning, you're stuck with it for a long, long time.
quote:
Buy the better tool!
Uncle Don
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 05-15-2006, 07:23 PM:
Surround EX on the Pana is easy...use the Pana SP23...in fact, if you don't have CP650, use the Pana SP23...it is the best one out there...it even has meters on the front for calibration and is offered with 1/3rd octave EQ. So even for just 5.1 audio, the SP23 offers 1/3-octave EQ.
As emulators go, the Pana CM353 is definately the best...some claim superior to the Cat 280.
I agree that the Sony SR emulation is horrid as is DTS' 6AD. Im not a fan of the JSD-80/XD-10P's SR emulation though it is better than the 6AD's and Sony's. The only digital SR that I've liked is the CP650s...it is suprising very good.
Posted by Steve Scott (Member # 630) on 05-16-2006, 12:50 PM:
I agree with Steve on the CP650, it does sound richer on all fronts compared to earlier digital processors. We're on a 6-AD in our big house now, I wish Reading would have never installed it. If all goes well, it might migrate up to our smallest auditorium one day & SRD would replace it. As far as I know, we have the only SA-10 setup with DTS in town, unless Regal installed one at some point, even if nobody gets to use it frequently.
In case you run into them, the older Smart stereo units, which only measure a fraction of the rack space of other processors, do well for small auditoriums. I'd rather have an Ultra Stereo or CP-50/55 for the EQ capabilities, but our front-surround Smart is a basic, decent unit, even on one amp. They appear to be the only original sound equipment, so they've lasted.
Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 05-17-2006, 02:52 PM:
If you're going to do analog then you should do it right. You can get really good-sounding results. For analog, I would go with a CP-650SR or a CP-65.
And here's where I return to my role as insensitive prick...
My fear is that if your budget is driving you to compromise in the rack, then you'll probably compromise in the room, too. And, you know what? Those compromises tend to be permanent. And I'm not just talking about the loudspeakers. What is your plan as far as isolation and reverberation, for instance?
Dollars to donuts: no moveable masking..?
Posted by Phil Hill (Member # 371) on 05-17-2006, 03:22 PM:
Manny! Glad to see you back here! ...AND you're still not insensitive!
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 05-17-2006, 03:51 PM:
Going back to your original question: Yes the CP-45 is plenty good enough, even with the 222sra card. I also would hope you buy good speakers and most certainly bi-amp. Later you could add subs & digital when the budget allows. Louis
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 05-17-2006, 07:36 PM:
If on a budget I would go for a used USL JSX with the 1/3 octave eq as it can accept a dts or srd adpater
also I don't know any second run theatres in canada that currently have issues getting disks on time
Posted by David Ingalsbe (Member # 2433) on 05-18-2006, 04:17 AM:
Well this is a crazy thought I know but a cp500sr would be another way to start. they have been hooking up to everything that we can though at it and the prologic decoder is as good as the dma8. Downside is every option requires an add on board.
Posted by Paul Gordon (Member # 3320) on 05-18-2006, 07:06 AM:
Our theatre (second run/art) has trouble getting DTS disks. Lots of times the main projectionist has to run around and find a theatre with the disks and copy them. Or when we complain to the distributor about it (like Alliance Atlantis) they get pissed off at us for asking about the disks. Smaller distributors are even worse, I think sometimes they just don't buy the rights to DTS, the prints may have the code but they don't come with the disks.
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 09-06-2006, 05:35 PM:
Thanks for all the feedback.
So, just out of curiousity (because I don't really understand lenses, although I'm getting better, and not too much about sound systems besides the basics), is a stereo system a left channel behind the screen and a right channel?
So, as far as my understanding works:
Soundhead to processor
processor to left and right amps
left and right amps to left and right screen systems (respectfully).
Now, this is just a work in progress (you know how I am), but I've been working on a business plan, layout, equipment, where to finance, yada yada yada. The rooms would be wired for expansion to digital.
Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 09-06-2006, 06:40 PM:
You need to add a center channel with amps. And yet another amp for the subwoofer channel. Don't go without a sub. (Two is better.)
Posted by Caleb Johnstone-Cowan (Member # 3710) on 09-06-2006, 08:32 PM:
I would invest now in decent sound. Fact is a lot of your potential customers could have 5.1 sound in their home theatres and after coming to watch a film in stereo never come back.
Posted by Cameron Glendinning (Member # 3516) on 09-06-2006, 08:41 PM:
Dolby stereo is really just stereo but played back through 4 channels, left, centre, right and surrounds, in the real world you must sit aproximatly in the middle of the two speakers (stereo)to get a true sound stage, from that position a phantom center and surround is created. If you move away from the center listening position the effect is lost.
In a cinema this translates to a very small number of seats that would get acceptable sound. the further you sit from the middle the more unballanced the sound becomes, ultimately creating the situation that if you sit on the left of the auditorium, the dialogue will apear to be coming from the left of screen!
Dolby bought and adapted the Sansui home quadraphonic system for cinema, so that quality stereo sound could be enjoyed in the majority of the seats in a cinema.
Now Quality of sound is most dependant on the speaker system! and how they are installed to interact with the unique room acoustics. Most electronics/ amps / modern processors have almost no recordable distortion. The speakers though are the proverbial tin can on a string.
High quality sound can be achieved through a simple 2 way passive speaker system. If you create a quiet place for the speakers to operate from by lining the back stage with fiberglass or polyester will also create a dramatic improvement to dialogue intelligibility / natural sound of the cinema. Angling the Horn to minimize echo / getting that right is also a key to great sound. Quality surround speakers that simply sound good especially in the midrange! these speakers point directly into the ears of the audience and color the sound. the number of cinemas with crap sounding surrounds still surprises me.
Bi amping / 3 & 4 way systems / genuine SR Cards / can then add to this. but are to some degree subtle compared to the basics.
Dolby with cat280 cards and Panastereo are to me the finest sounding analoge processers.
My relivent experience to this is that my company Cinepro has custom built several complete cinema speaker systems and have modified many more in Sydney, Australia. Companies who have purchased my products include, Hayden, Dendy, Hoyts, Valhalla, Chauvel, United, Palace and John Wilsons GALAXY traveling cinema.
Also Wings on your speakers can help control the air and help the formation of a perfect bass wave and deepen the bass response, think 1"mdf timber wings that are crossbraced with 2x4 that are 4 ft wide, this will dramatically increase your sub bass response from your conventinal speaker system
beware of non solid surfaces or materials in the cinema, thin materials can shake / absorb the bass and even create rattles.
Left and right only configeration is extremly rare in cinemas, cut down systems usually are centre only with surround, I do not recomend this though!
[ 09-06-2006, 11:18 PM: Message edited by: Cameron Glendinning ]
Posted by Michael Brown (Member # 890) on 09-09-2006, 10:30 PM:
quote: Andrew McCrea
So, as far as my understanding works:
Soundhead to processor
processor to left and right amps
left and right amps to left and right screen systems (respectfully).
If you really really just want a left channel and a right channel, then you don't need a processor, you just need to connect the soundhead to the amps. (somehow) there is no processing needed to get a left and right signal from 25mm film, it is recorded right on the film that way.
However, trust me and what the others have said - You really don't want to do it like that.
In the year 2006, you need to install Dolby SR, with a nice basic Dolby processor as the others have mentioned above. That will give you left, center & right screen channels and a mono surround channel, and an all over better sound quality because you have the dolby processing.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 09-10-2006, 06:24 AM:
Cameron said "Dolby stereo is really just stereo but played back through 4 channels, left, centre, right and surrounds, in the real world you must sit aproximatly in the middle of the two speakers (stereo)to get a true sound stage, from that position a phantom center and surround is created. If you move away from the center listening position the effect is lost"
Not true Dolby stereo optical is a 4 channel encoded matrix system. It is not a two channel with a improved stereo image
Posted by Cameron Glendinning (Member # 3516) on 09-10-2006, 08:03 AM:
Ok Gordon, yes there are 4 channels derived from a stereo source.
On a regular stereo amp it is also possible to create a surround channel simply hook up a speaker from the amp pos of the right and the negitive from the speaker to the pos of the left and presto a surround channel 85% as acurite as a Dolby one (no delay)
Early cheap cinema processers like eprad combined l + r for the centre
Now why if I am wrong? how can you play a regular CD mixed only for stereo through a prologic decoder and get a centre and surround channel even though the recording was not mixed for it?
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 09-10-2006, 08:22 AM:
actually a cd played back through a prologic decoder doesn't "decode" it properly
and the L-R channel is not actually the surround channel persay but the source of the surround control
As for Eprad they did use the L+R as the centre channel as did the early dolby units
I would recomend that you read the wilcox patent for the 4:2:4 matrix as used by Dolby that is the most current patent on the encoding process that follows on after the patents of schriber and tate
the original concept for center channel was a 3db gain riding (cat 110 for the cp50 and the pentoptical module for the cp100) enhancement of the original phantom center channel described back in the 50's in a SMPTE journal artical on a 3 channel optical system
The surround channel was originaly as you mentioned a adaptation of the Sansui QS system and was a sum of the Lb and Rb channels
this was the cat 116
To increase the channel seperation they quickly adopted the tate set of chips that were adapted from the schriber SQ matrix that CBS had used (I think if memory serves it was the New Orleans Matrix was the mix parameters that were used
There are many other decoders that work all are based on the core of sum and difference but even in the sweet spot of a room the logic gain riding is still needed
Posted by Cameron Glendinning (Member # 3516) on 09-10-2006, 09:40 PM:
Gordon is totally correct of course!!! I was trying to simlify it a little too much to put it in context of this tread so that a cinema would not have only a left and right speaker backstage. When you play a regular cd through a prologic the stereo effect is sort of crushed to centre ect.
amp output
Surround positive> + L - - R + <surround neg
my original post is too confusing, try above sometime for a cheap surround channel, yes you do wire up the left and right channel off the same amp.
Please only at home, the effect isnt for the big screen
[ 09-12-2006, 04:15 AM: Message edited by: Cameron Glendinning ]
Posted by David Buckley (Member # 2600) on 09-13-2006, 01:04 AM:
I've got a similar situation to the OP.
We are an analog stereo house, that is real stereo not "cinema stereo", just one pair of speakers behind the screen, one stereo amp, a pair of ASR-40s (we run changeovers), and a mixer the readers are both plugged into. The audio is switched using the power supplies for the LED readers.
At a leisurly pace (ie several years) we'd like to upgrade this system to something more standard, L/C/R + surround(s) + sub, but wont be able to do this in one go, but I'd figure a good place to start with would be installing a processor. If we got more speakers and/or amps then we'd have nothing to drive them with, whereas with a processor we'd at least get noise reduction as an opening gambit.
What we be a sensible processor to go for? Its got to be available, affordable, and happy to generate just stereo so we dont lose the center and surround audio, and work with changeovers, ie two sync inputs and switching betwixt same. Ideally if it can then go L/C/R only as a step to surround(s) and sub that would be excellent. Old tech, ie repairable would be nice too
Posted by Paul Gordon (Member # 3320) on 09-13-2006, 07:36 AM:
You have to have more then a left & right system now a days....
Buy yourself a used CP55 or 65 with split surrounds and get yourself setup for a good 5.1 analog system. A CP55 will run you around ($600.00) then buy a SRA5 w/ two CAT 280T cards ($500.00) you can find cheap CAT 280's on ebay and change them to 280T's. Put in some new red light readers ($800.00) and your off and running.
Sound is in fact more important then picture!! people will accept an "ok" picture but not bad sound.
Posted by Bruce McGee (Member # 131) on 09-13-2006, 10:30 AM:
How about having a KINTEK system fall in your lap for free? Have one hooked up as my current stereo system. rattles the windows easy.
Would hook it up to my Holmes 8, but it dont run no more.
Posted by Charles Greenlee (Member # 3856) on 09-15-2006, 11:05 AM:
Ack, Kintek. We still have the reacks for them. Heck, we still have the kintek amps, and monitors. The tech pulled our kintex processors a couple of years ago, mainly because ours were Mono-surround, and upgraded to CP55's and CP65's, and Smart Mod2B's for the 2 houses remaining mono-surr. He said he's even seen the old Kinetk's catch fire, literally. Worse, he said that it had happened here, even showed me the singed area in the sound rack. Scary.
Posted by Martin Brooks (Member # 1269) on 09-27-2006, 08:28 PM:
I'm going to disagree with the other posters here. Unless you're in a situation where there is no other theater around for at least 30 miles and you feel that consumers will attend your theater regardless of the quality of presentation just because they want to go out and there are few other entertainment options available locally, I think that you need to install digital sound now, not just Dolby analog.
Some will protest and say that a properly presented Dolby-SR analog print can sound as good or better than a digital print, but on average, a digital print is going to sound brighter, cleaner and have far more dynamic range.
People have had CD quality sound in their homes for over 20 years. The U.S. is converting to HDTV at a steady pace and all of those HD channels (and DVD formats) broadcast in 5.1 digital.
IMHO for any theater to survive, you have to provide a better experience in the theater than people get in the home. Dolby analog has been around for 30 years. Why would you install 30-year-old technology now?
You need to look at your proposed business from a consumer value proposition perspective. You need to list all the reasons why a consumer would attend your theater. What are you providing that they can't get elsewhere, including the home theater experience?
Also, I don't know how much you've studied about the economics of running a movie theater, but generally, from a financial perspective, movie theaters are food concessions that happen to show movies. So I would not forgo hot dogs at launch - you need to sell as much food as you can. If you can't afford a hot dog broiler, boil the things like New York street vendors do or if local building regulations permit it, buy a cheap home oven, buy franks in a blanket from some supplier and bake 'em. People love those and I've never seen movie theaters provide it.
Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 543) on 09-27-2006, 09:57 PM:
"Starting off with Stereo"
Andrew Im jealous youve got one up on me
I should start a sister thread "Starting off with Mono"
I have a Devry stuck in mono land. My goal is to convert this to stereo one of these days. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.
Thanks!!
Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 09-27-2006, 10:12 PM:
quote: Martin Brooks
there is no other theater around for at least 30 miles
We're in that situation but I still would never install non-digital sound. If we had the space to add a second screen, we would, and it would have digital sound too. Our sound system has its limitations (mostly in the speakers, right Mark?) but I've had many teenage customers go off to college in every big city I can think of and they always come home and tell me our sound is better than the theatres where they went. (Personally, I give the credit to our wood floor, but digital's bass range makes that better too.)
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 09-27-2006, 10:41 PM:
Mike,
Your speakers performed alot better than I expected them to after they were biamped. New speakers would help somewhat but your sound there is darn good as it is... the wood floor defnately has something to do with it! I would lean more to doing something with both a baffle wall and the balcony surrounds at thr next stage. With the addition of a baffle wall the conductors on the express freight passing by would be hearing the Dolby Train Trailer come through very well!
Mark
Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 09-28-2006, 12:16 AM:
In around 1998 a guy who owns a theatre a couple hundred miles from here called me and asked me "if that stereo sound is all it's cracked up to be."
I told him the same thing as mentioned above, about how people have better sound in their homes and cars, etc. and that he'd better not only install stereo, but digital sound too if he wanted to stay in the movie business. He did install DTS not long after that conversation, and he's still in business today. (I like to think I saved his bacon!)
Posted by Steve Scott (Member # 630) on 09-28-2006, 11:24 AM:
The last time I went to an all-digital theater around the Minneapolis metro & saw a presentation with working digital sound (no reversions, no blown speakers) was the Grudge at Crown's Block E-15, in 2004. They benefit greatly from being the only local multiplex with Kinoton heads, in that respect.
Working with only USL JS-220's & an Altec loudspeaker in the analog houses at Lakeville, the result was a modestly wide dynamic range from center-surround. Those Altec's had the ability to wash the entire screen with sound, even from a single screen channel.
Posted by Charles Greenlee (Member # 3856) on 09-28-2006, 07:22 PM:
Sound is created in an alnalog wave, and your ears detect it as an analog wave. So it'd make sense that analog sould be superior, given perfect media and sound handling equipment, and that the media did not wear. Since this isn't pssible, digital provides for easier control, true copying (100th generation copy sounds just as good as the master), and error correction. "Hear it for the first time, everytime." Sound familiar? Film wears when you do 5 shows a day, 7 days a week, and runs that can last for months, no matter how well you try to take care of it. Digital doesn't care, to a point, about dirty film and dirty soundhead optics. And because of limitations of the analog sountrack's realestate of the film, dynamic range can suffer.
I'd definatly say go digital. DTS, or SR-D. I prefer DTS, personally, but there are those that are die hard Dolby Digital fans. If you have premium quality analog eqipment, and the track on film is recorded in extremely good quality, and you stay on top of your equipment, sure analog is great, and sometimes superior. But practically digital, hands down, and to boot has descrete channels. Analog has them matrixed and the emmersion doesn't "feel" as deep., though I'm sure one of the guys on here could help you fix. If you go didgital, don't neglect the analog, since not all films have digital tracks, and if your digital goes out, that analog back-up will sure save your bacon.
Posted by Brian Guckian (Member # 1678) on 09-29-2006, 09:09 PM:
I'd agree with the "go digital now" sentiments...though anlogue can sound very good if done right, DVD has been around for some time now and things have moved on generally. You could have gotten away with it a few years back, but not now IMHO.
It's always interesting too that the compromises are always targeted at the projection and sound equipment in these projects. But aren't these costs relatively small in the context of the overall building costs? I mean does it mean that much to save say, $10,000 if the whole kaboodle costs say, $1,000,000?
Posted by Demetris Thoupis (Member # 833) on 09-30-2006, 12:30 PM:
It is so sad that theater owners want to invest an extreme amount of money on the appearance of their theaters and don't give a damn about the heart of the theater. I am not saying Andrew is doing that but the go Digital now issue is a must. Don't even give it another thought. It is sad that people with a decent home cinema system have true 5.1 Digital sound which in most cases sounds much better even at the best equalised analogue cinema. Two things for my opinion. Bi-Amp and Digital. If cost is a problem, buy a B-stock DA-20 or DTS6D if you can find any. Do not spare expenses on the projection booth, the heart of the theater, and your presentation. You could chop a platter system and install a Tower to save some cash, put some descent 2 way screen speakers e.t.c. Good combination might be the 2 Way screen array JBL speakers (considering you will go bi-amp) with 3310's surrounds which is quite an inexpensive way to go. Still you will need the least 5 amps to drive the three screen speakers, your surrounds and the subwoofers. If possible, install 2 subwoofers. Good bass always makes a booming impression. Image quality is the next main thing. Whatever lamp your technician suggests to install to provide a good image, go for it. Do not try to cut down the cost on the projection lamp as that will not give you a bright shining image. From that on some tiny touches give a very good impression on the presentation and the "film done right issue". I always loved the way in one of our cinemas down here, where we installed a black thick curtain, and the film starts with the logo of the theater printed on 35mm for 15 seconds and appears beautifully on the screen which hides behind the curtain. Screen curtain gives a cosiness (don't know if I spelled it right) inside a theater. Frame always right, splice correctly and Long may you survive!
D
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-30-2006, 02:09 PM:
Probably the best single piece of info I read in this thread...
quote: Martin Brooks
IMHO for any theater to survive, you have to provide a better experience in the theater than people get in the home.
Andrew, if you really want your theater to stand a chance in hell of surviving, either do it right the first time (preferred) or at least do it right in sections.
Let's pretend for a minute you started off with a Kintek processor and paired it with some Klipsch speakers. You now have achieved a shitty sound system...but at what price? At this point what you have bought isn't worth much of anything AND for you to upgrade properly later will mean that you won't recoup your money on this dumpster party so that is money down the drain.
If you just cannot afford to do it right in the first place, start with half of the items solid and the other half junk. For example, get yourself a CP65 and some good speakers, a quality lamphouse and projector with good lenses, but play cheapass on the amplifiers, booth monitor, platter and maybe start with a freebie used screen. The idea here is that only half of these items is money down the drain, because when you start upgrading to do things properly, you won't have to throw away that CP65 or your speakers or lamphouse, etc. Make sense?
With that being said, IMHO you are committing financial suicide by opening a theater without GOOD quality digital sound and top notch projection (which means no Coke bottle lenses or old lamphouse that puts out a dim, yellow image). The fact of the matter is that people can get a better show at home with privacy and probably much more comfortable seating. (If you are being cheap on the projection, you are probably getting uncomfortable chairs.) So why should people pay you top dollar to sit in your auditorium for 2 hours for a lackluster presentation? Think about that when you look at your numbers and realize the only time you put butts in the seat are for "event" movies that people simply cannot wait the 2 months to watch on DVD.
Posted by Cameron Glendinning (Member # 3516) on 10-01-2006, 09:11 PM:
"You never get a second chance to make a great first impression"
In my corporate video days, you would be surprised how much money people pay to tell their staff that.!!!!
Word of mouth advertising is far more effective than paid, so if you can find a twist on the usual cinema experience that people will talk about, it means bums on seats.
IE I went to the new Odeon cinema last week to see Superman. There was a jazz band playing in the foyer/ super comfortable seats / free sandwiches / great sound. I really enjoyed it.
instead of
I saw superman Superman last week, I really enjoyed it.
As one very famous cinema pioneer once said " Dress for success, and the money/ success will follow" Thats why there were so many cinemas called the Roxy!
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 12-18-2006, 03:43 PM:
There's so much I have to learn about sound systems, like these terms:
split surrounds
Bi-Amplified
Tri-Amplified
2-way systems
crossovers
(SR) emulation
If anyone is interested in helping me figure out what the best set-up is for thw 130 and 70 seat auditoriums with digital sound, could you please drop me an e-mail or even state what a good systems would be on these forums?
I don't understand the specs of each speaker, etc. to understand what the best selection would be for each room, or what those terms mean up above to aid in my selection.
Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 12-18-2006, 06:25 PM:
Between junk and starting out with decent in the first place, for just a two or three screen theatre, we're only talking a small percentage difference in price. Installation is going to be the same, regardless (except you're going to have to pay that money twice; once for the initial install, and then again for the upgrade(s)). So, how much are you really saving?
I would suggest you'd save more money in your wise choice of real estate, or in tax breaks you can work up with the locality, for bringing them a theatre.
Just MHO...
Posted by Adam Martin (Member # 641) on 12-18-2006, 06:47 PM:
Over-simplified, but here goes:
split surrounds - Optical surround sound was mono with the same signal going to all surround speakers. Digital systems are capable of splitting the surround speakers into groups (left and right) or (left, right and rear).
Bi-Amplified / Tri-Amplified - How the signal is amplified and sent to the stage speakers from the processor. Amplified = the whole signal is sent to the speaker where it goes through a crossover (see below) and is split to low, [mid] and high range. Bi-Amplified and Tri-Amplified use a crossover before the amplifier to separate (either low and high [Bi-Amplified] or low, mid and high [Tri-Amplified]) the signals before they get amplified and sent to the stage speakers.
2-way systems - A two-way speaker has a woofer and tweeter mounted together in one assembly rather than individual speakers for low and high-frequencies.
crossovers - a device that takes the audio signal and splits it up into multiple signals so that the low-frequency goes to the woofer, the mid-frequency goes to the mid-range and the high-frequency goes to the horn (et al). Sometimes this is built into the speaker electronics itself.
(SR) emulation Dolby owns the rights to the process of A-type and SR-type noise reduction. Non-Dolby systems must emulate (do the same thing in their own different way) the noise reduction process in order to properly reproduce the encoded audio tracks.
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 12-18-2006, 10:37 PM:
Thanks Adam!
Posted by Cameron Glendinning (Member # 3516) on 12-19-2006, 02:19 AM:
More information please
What shape is the cinemas? Parrallel walls? Will there be curtains on the wall? Stadium style or flat floor? Big soft seats or older style?
Answer those questions and I'll let you know about what speakers would be ideal. In my opinion one size does not fit all.
PS Later Dolby processers also have SR emulation and analogue sound is not as good as the earlier models were.
Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 12-19-2006, 10:51 AM:
Technically whatever Dolby® does to get Dolby® SR® is Dolby® SR®, not an "emulation". The original Dolby® analog cards are considered the best sounding, but there are several implementations using digital signal processors.
The CP45 has pretty poor digital SR®, the CP500 is quite a bit better, and the CP650 is quite good IMO.
If you want to hear what a really bad emulation sounds like, try a DTS 6AD.
Considering the price for an analog SR® card it's understandable that the DSP version is used nowadays, particularly as fallback for digital sound.
Posted by Sam D. Chavez (Member # 1841) on 12-19-2006, 10:56 AM:
The CP45 is not digital in any way. It is the last of the analog processors from Dolby. If memory serves, it uses a 222/SR "Lite" card which is analog.
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 12-19-2006, 11:40 AM:
So, how are amplifiers chosen regarding speaker sizes?
Here's the equipment I've narrowed down so far for these two rooms:
Cinema 1
45' long and 38' wide
130 seats (older style model, sloped)
35' screen maxed in scope
43' Throw
Cinema 2
37' long and 28' wide
70 seats (older style model, sloped)
25' screen maxed in scope
35' Throw
QSC's ISA Amplifiers
JBL 4675C screen channel speakers
JBL 4645C subwoofers
JBL 8330A surround speakers
(Above links are Adobe PDF files for specifications)
Which of the amps would you select for each speaker/speaker set?
What about speakers for the rooms? 6 surround on each side wall in both houses? Bi-Amp in larger house?
Thanks for the help!
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 12-19-2006, 12:17 PM:
Speakers have a characteristic called "sensitivity," which is measured in dB/watt at one metre. Given the dimensions of the room, the efficiency of the speaker, any sound absorbing characteristics of the room, and the desired maximum SPL, you can calculate the necessary amplifier power.
In general, newer speakers are less efficient than older ones. With an Altec A-4, you only need about 25-50 watts of power to fill a 2000-seat theatre with sound. You will need considerably more power to reach an equivalent SPL with modern JBLs.
The right way to do this is to hire an acoustical consultant when designing the room and then hire a competent service company to design and install the sound system, assuming that you actually want to build or renovate a theatre, as opposed to just being interested in the process.
As a side note, I will point out that I think that your rooms are too small (too few seats) and that your screens are too big for those room sizes. Your "cinema 2" reminds me of a screening room where I have worked. For the record, that room was about 30' deep and the screen was about 14' wide for scope and the proportions seemed reasonable (see photos of "GCC screening room"). That place doesn't exist any more, but they had the small EV stage speakers (and sub), biamped with QSC 1400 amps, and some type of EV surround speakers. This was probably serious overkill for that room.
Also, why are your throw distances less than the length of the room? Does the booth stick out over the last row of seats, or is there some other reason for this?
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 12-19-2006, 12:52 PM:
The room sizes include space behind the screens, plus the throw includes 1' away from the port.
From the back wall to the screen in #1 would be about 42'.
This is just interest for the process. Some people said the room sizes were quite good. The screens are maxed in scope, as well. The flat screen in #1 ends up being about 27'.
Posted by Cameron Glendinning (Member # 3516) on 12-19-2006, 04:50 PM:
Ok, I would not recomend the 6575c, as the horn has a high and wide coverage pattern and unless you have very good acoustics (THX style, thick curtains and acoustic treatment on the side/ back walls) the advantage to the midrange sound quality that a large horn makes will be lost to early reflections that make inteligibility difficult.
The 90 x 40 smaller horn would probably work better and be easier to aim, to avoid the bounce from the back and side walls.
aim to place speakers on stands 2/3 the hight of screen and aim the hi frequency horn down through the screen into the middle of your seating area, so that the seats and audience break up / absorb the sound, before it bounces of the flat auditorium walls. Remember to angle the left and right speakers horns inwards.
QSC is simply a very high quality amplifier, as for size, you have small rooms, so 200w would be fine
the jbl 2677 from their small cinema rangeweb page
please note that the whole box needs to be angled as it has a fixed horn. Also that the THX model features a 90 x 90 horn ( correction 100 x 100 )and is probably not suitable.
In small rooms there is no need to bi amp unless you prefere the sound that way(try before you buy) to me the difference is not huge.
The next model up 4760d would be ideal.
I suggest 8 surround speakers per auditorium, 2 on the back walls 3 per side walls starting 1/3 back from stage.
Your cinemas are small so you dont need big for quality
[ 12-20-2006, 12:39 AM: Message edited by: Cameron Glendinning ]
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 12-19-2006, 09:07 PM:
Sorry...the Cat 222SR/A IS SR emulation...not SR...for it has NO SR IN IT. It has a cascaded "S" (consumer) circuit in it. It does not track like SR so it can only be classified as emulation...just like all of the rest of the real SR products Dolby made (Cat 300, 350 and Cat 280).
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 12-20-2006, 11:23 PM:
I was looking at this JBL document and they suggest picking an amplifier with twice the wattage output for a surround speaker than the speaker's power... so a 100W surround speaker channel would get a 200W amp, as far as I understood.
It says that the sub should get an amp that is rated as close to the sub as possible.
It doesn't say anything about the screen channels.
I thought if you overdid the amplifier, it would blow the speaker?
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-21-2006, 10:05 AM:
Andrew said"I thought if you overdid the amplifier, it would blow the speaker? "
actually the reverse situation damages more speakers by being driven into clipping
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 12-21-2006, 10:12 AM:
So if a speaker's average power capability was 300w, then an amplifier of 300w or a little bit more would be the choice?
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-21-2006, 01:48 PM:
You choose your amplifiers based on the power you require as based on the speakers sensitivity to get the desired SPL in the theatre and then a bit of headroom
Posted by Andrew McCrea (Member # 674) on 12-21-2006, 02:08 PM:
quote: Scott Norwood
Speakers have a characteristic called "sensitivity," which is measured in dB/watt at one metre. Given the dimensions of the room, the efficiency of the speaker, any sound absorbing characteristics of the room, and the desired maximum SPL, you can calculate the necessary amplifier power.
So, how do I use this formula?
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-21-2006, 07:01 PM:
At that point I would recomend hireing a consultant to do the proper design for the room taking all considerations into effect
Posted by Cameron Glendinning (Member # 3516) on 12-21-2006, 07:05 PM:
Ummm the 185 w base model would be fine for stage and surround channels, the sub should be the next size up (but in your cinemas this is probably not neccesary), with 4 x 100w surround speakers per surround amp which equals 400w, I kinda think an 800w amp is overkill.
Cinemas speakers are much more effecient than home speakers
99 db at one metre with one watt, compared to average 85 db per watt @1meter@1watt, so dont be surprised if your amps never go anyware near there potential, more likely will peak in the 10's of watts while the cinema shakes.
As for the theory Steve Guttag would be able to explain it far better than me.
[ 12-22-2006, 04:35 AM: Message edited by: Cameron Glendinning ]
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-21-2006, 07:37 PM:
The formula for calculating power to reach a desired SPL is available in several places and is simple enough
The issue will evolve more in room aborsption and placement and that is where a good designer/engineer is worth their cost
nothing is free and too often people asume that this "homework" that some of us take the time to do is of little value and easily replaceable
investing in acoustic simulation software like ease or lara or acousti-cad is not a small item and its return must be found in system design and follow up sales
I am sure that steve and others here like myself have made that investment and it does have a need of return
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