This is topic Resurfacing the inspection bench? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Christopher Meredith (Member # 3767) on 06-03-2006, 09:19 AM:
 
We have two Kelmar RTV-8500 inspection ebnches to which someone has apparently taken a hole saw. The surfaces of both tables are riddled with nickel and quarter size holes and it is not only unprofessional, it is dangerous as they have begun to fill with objects such as screws, bolts, and other film-scratching accoutrements.

Anyway, I am trying to think of a way to resurface these tables. I had considered the possibility of trying to order entirely new surfaces for these tables, but something tells me this would likely not incur a substantial difference in cost than purchasing a whole new table. So I was thinking that there might be a way to overlay something which would in essence cover over the old surface. But of course it would have to be white, would have to lay flat, and would have to be able to take some light abuse and heavy cleaning.

Do any of you have experience doing something like this or have any ideas for what I might be able to do? Thanks!
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 06-03-2006, 09:31 AM:
 
Jusk laminate a finished piece of MDF to the top and remount the devices
 

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Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 06-03-2006, 09:50 AM:
 
Do as Gordon says, then fire your maintenance guy for using the tables as work benches.
 

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Posted by Joshua Waaland (Member # 287) on 06-03-2006, 09:51 AM:
 
I have the same problem with my rewind bench. I already spent over $100 to replace all of the bearings in it but still need to replace the bench top itself because it is curved badly in the middle. I called Kelmar and got pricing and just as I had suspected, the price was ridiculous. I would make my own except that I don't know where to get a piece of MDF that thick. Maybe glueing two pieces together would work. I am also interested to hear what others have done.
 

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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 06-03-2006, 11:12 AM:
 
WTF....has some kind of brain-eating bacterium invade the spinal cords and migrate into the brainpan of certain booth operators? I too discovered a Kelmar rewind table with holes drilled right through the tabletop. The infection also seems to cause the splice jockies to make cuts with their razor blades directy onto the formica top, making it look similar to what one of the frames at the reel joints look like -- hundreds of scratches all over it.

Obviously these poor afflicted victims of this brain disease need to be immediately removed from the booth and for the protection of the rest of us, their heads should be shaved and a big red letter "A" tatooed on their foreheads and "hole" on the back of their skulls.
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 06-03-2006, 12:23 PM:
 
At least here Home Depot sells 3/4" MDF with a white laminate top I would use PL400 and laminate it to the top of the existing top
 

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Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 06-03-2006, 12:44 PM:
 

quote: Joshua Waaland

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I already spent over $100 to replace all of the bearings

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For bearings??? Did they give you any lube with that?
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 06-03-2006, 01:18 PM:
 


Been there. Done that. Bought the T-Shirt. Thank you. Please Drive through.

Maybe I should have used a larger piece of material and I should have cut out a hole for the light but I was PISSED OFF!

Kids had been sitting on the bench. It was physically cracked, almost in two. I couldn't get approval to replace it from "Home Office" and I didn't have any allowance for materials to do it right.

I scrounged one of the door panels off one of the old bulk candy displays that Cinemark used to use. It was abandoned in the store room. I just cut it to size and screwed it in place.

Had I had the temperment and resources to do it the way it should have been done, I would have taken the rewind units off and use a piece of wood the same size as the table top. I would have drilled holes for the rewinds and reinstalled them.

The light didn't work anyway. The kids broke it. The fluorescent lamp was busted off in its socket.

No way am I going to spend time fixing things up nice when people don't appreciate what they have!
 

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Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 06-03-2006, 03:41 PM:
 
The Neumade bench could've probably handled those 'tards sitting on it just fine.
 

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Posted by John Wilson (Member # 269) on 06-03-2006, 09:49 PM:
 
Or just get a piece of glass cut to cover it. It's easy to clean and if you've got something important in a memo or whatever to let everyone know, put it under the glass so they'll undoubtedly see it.

Always worked for me.
 

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Posted by Joshua Waaland (Member # 287) on 06-03-2006, 10:41 PM:
 

quote: Richard Hamilton

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For bearings??? Did they give you any lube with that?

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I bought Timken bearings (made here in Canton) which are slightly more expensive. There are quite a few bearings in those rewind heads. I didn't go the cheap route on rebuilding these heads.
 

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Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 06-05-2006, 03:19 PM:
 
Try any reputable dealer for that table top (we are Hadden Theatre Supply; Louisville, KY) I would be surprised if the table top was really excessively priced by the time you get a discount.

BYW: I really like the GLASS or plexi idea. One of our major customers has used glass for 20 years. Louis
 

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Posted by Brad Allen (Member # 470) on 06-05-2006, 03:31 PM:
 
And Kelmar should be shot for putting such a flimsy top on them to begin with. I have seen one as well that had several dozen holes busted in it.

They charge enough for the tables, a sheet of MDF wouldn't kill them.
 

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Posted by Christopher Meredith (Member # 3767) on 07-10-2006, 06:43 PM:
 
Okay, well I finally did it. I figure I'd report back here to show you the results.

I bought a large sheet of white formica from Lowe's. It was big enough to do both tabletops and have a lot left over. I actually bought a sheet with some chips out of a corner so they gave it to me at a discount.

All in all, it cost less than $60 for the materials (formica sheet, contact cement) and the tools (utility knife, respirator, long ruler, all-purpose paint brush).

I wish I had gotten before pictures, but here are the afters, from my crappy camera. I think it came out ok. I have a few more pics. If I get permission, I'll put up more:



 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 07-10-2006, 11:37 PM:
 
Yeah! That's more like the job I should have done on the one I had to fix!

Nice work!
 

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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 07-11-2006, 03:59 AM:
 
Anyone know if the Kelmar table that has a controller box with an inspection light built into it is nothing more than the same box as is used in the non-illuminated model only they wired in a for a compact flourescent lamp and added a white plastic window on top of it? In other words, if I take my table apart (to repair the holes drilled into it) I might as well, if possible, stick a light in the controller box and convert my inspection light-less model to one with a light. Right now I am using a separate light box for film inspection, but even though it uses tube flourescent bulbs and is farily compact (it is really a slide inspection light box), it does take up precious room on the table, plus it's clumsy. One built in like the ready-made lighted Kelmars would really rock. Is there enuf room in the controller box to stick one of those compact flourescents in it?
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 07-11-2006, 11:11 AM:
 
Not 100% certain but I think they use two different boxes. The one with the light looks bigger.

I think the inspection light is in the wrong place on those tables.

I know it's in the middle of the table for space and access considerations but all it does is glare the user in the face.

I think it should be located farther back on the table or slightly off to one side. Yes, the user would have to move the film over to the light or change his position so he can inspect while film is moving but where the light is right now, it ruins the user's vision.

If the light is on and you are inspecting film, everything's okay. But if you are only watching film go by, the thing glares in your face and F's up your vision. Then, when you look somewhere else to do another task, it takes time for your vision to clear again.

The simple-sounding solution would be to turn the light on and off as it's needed but, in the process of building and inspecting a long movie, you could end up turning it on and off a dozen times or more.

Moving it back on the table would make it so a user sitting in normal position wouldn't be forced to look down, into the light while working but would allow him to shift his position and/or view so he can use it without destroying his vision.

Therefore, Frank might be at a slight advantage. He can cut a hole in the table where HE wants it to be and install a light where HE wants it to go instead of settling for the location that Kelmar assigns. (Simply because it's cheaper and easier to build that way.)
 

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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 07-11-2006, 09:12 PM:
 
Randy, good point. Maybe I am actually better off with my little slide light box -- I keep in toward the back of the table as you suggest and only pull it forward when I need it. Perhaps I should leave well enough along. In fact, maybe I could get the best of both worlds if I mount it on draw runners BENEATH the table, right next to the control box, then I could pull it out and light the film from below as it is rewinding. Hmmm....have to think about this some more.
 

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Posted by Phil Hill (Member # 371) on 07-11-2006, 11:28 PM:
 
I always thought it dumb to put the light box in a "light well" in the surface of the table.

With the backside of the bench against a wall, I much prefer the light source to emit from a light box attached vertically on the the table and against the wall so as not to directly shine in one's eyes or take up valuable table space...but easily available to view the film when necessary.
 

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Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 07-12-2006, 09:23 AM:
 
Y'know, with all the electroluminescent devices and all the LEDs available today, it a shame that nobody has come up with a small, flat light panel, maybe only 1/2 inch thick that can be placed on the table top and slid out of the way when not needed.
 

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Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 07-12-2006, 10:19 AM:
 

quote: Randy Stankey

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Y'know, with all the electroluminescent devices and all the LEDs available today, it a shame that nobody has come up with a small, flat light panel, maybe only 1/2 inch thick that can be placed on the table top and slid out of the way when not needed.

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