Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Basic Century intermittent pad shoe question

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Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 07-17-2006, 10:49 PM:

This is a very basic question, but one which confuses me nontheless, and it doesn't help that the parts and parts numbers in the manual appear to be confused: on the 35mm pad show assembly, what secures the knob with the stop pin on the shaft, so that the knob doesn't spin on the shaft and the pad shoe clicks open and closed? It looks like a tapered pin. Do you simply push that out with a precision tool? Do some of them also have a screw instead?

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-17-2006, 10:56 PM:

..takes an allen wrench to pull the setscrew out..which holds that assembly in the main boss. - Monte

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 07-17-2006, 11:00 PM:

What? I wasn't talking about the whole assembly, just the knob on the very end of the shaft which closes over the two balls which ride on the springs.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-17-2006, 11:05 PM:

oh..sorry on that .. maybe Mark can walk you through on that one then... - Monte

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-18-2006, 07:37 AM:

Michael,

I've seen em made two ways. One is that the knurled knob at the end is machined one piece with the shaft that its on. If you losen that set screw and pull the assy. from the intermittent there is a small taper pin through the part on the back that is not knurled. Tapping that pin out with a small punch frees the whole thing up. Don't loose the springs and detent balls as I'm not sure thay are available as seperate parts. Also, you may have to press it apart on a small arbor press as the taper pin hole is reamed in situ and they can be difficult to get apart.

The second version which I've seen on older machines is basically three seperate pieces with the same pin through the back piece and a pin also through the front knurled piece. Sometimes those springs actually break in the detent and I also normally take em apart for powder coating. You will need sme way to squeezr the thing back together to get the taper pin back in... a vice usually works for this. Normally in the field that whole thing is just replaced as a complete assy. There is an exploded view of it on page 15 of the MSC/SA manual (rev. 98) here in the F-T manuals section.

Mark

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-18-2006, 08:25 AM:

Newer ones from Strong used a "hollow" ball bearing which eventually shears in half...bad news. Have repaired 6 of these recently, using REAL ball bearings. (Bad one looks like "shot." )Louis

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 07-18-2006, 05:55 PM:

quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Also, you may have to press it apart on a small arbor press as the taper pin hole is reamed in situ and they can be difficult to get apart.

Thanks for the info. The ones I came across are of the latter type, where you can take the knob off from the operating side end of the shaft/stud. I don't quite understand the quoted text though.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-18-2006, 06:15 PM:

"Reamed in Situ".... Just some old British Steam Engine slang for... they put the fuckin thing together in the proper position... sometimes in a jig... and then they drill and ream the hole for the taper pin.
Hopefully you can understand what that means..... [Wink]

.

Mark

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 07-18-2006, 09:37 PM:

Oh yes, thanks, I had a litle trouble understanding what you meant because I had pitured what you said about the press wrong in my mind. I thought you meant somehow spread and widen the hole which doesn't make sense, but you meant getting the two pieces apart, yes, that makes much more sense.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-18-2006, 09:58 PM:

Yes! Multiple parts that have had holes reamed through them can be a pain and may not just just slide apart... sometimes they will and sometimes they won't. A good example of won't slide apart is the older Simplex intermittents that have two taper pins through the sprcket and star shaft... You almost always need a small puller to get them apart.

Well, If you have one made by Strong it will no doubt simply fall apart as Loius has indicated [Eek!]

.

Mark