Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Simplex PR1050 intermittent shoe alignment

This is topic Simplex PR1050 intermittent shoe alignment - Part 2 in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 08-05-2006, 01:50 PM:

I am trying to adjust the position of the intermittent sprocket so that it is shifted a bit towards the outboard to eliminate a shoe alignment problem. The problem I have is that the sprocket seems to be bound to the shaft. I have removed the screw and nut. So, what technique can I use to move a stubborn sprocket back and forth on the shaft without damaging the intermittent movement?

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-05-2006, 10:52 PM:

A small gear puller will work. Be sure to align the outer edge of the intermittent sprocket to the outer edge of the lower feed sprocket. Just use a precision straight edge to do this, or old straight gate runner edge. When the two are the in the same plane then tighten down the intermittent sprocket. If things still don't align then something else is amuck.... perhaps a dropped gate or bent shoe mounting tang. If this is on a PR-1060 have fun [Roll Eyes]

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The best cure for a PR-1060 is a new Kelmar trap assy!

Mark

Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 08-08-2006, 05:14 PM:

The gear puller can help me pull the gear towards the outboard side; however, what if I need to move the sprocket towards the inboard side?

Posted by Randy Bowden (Member # 587) on 08-08-2006, 05:47 PM:

Eric,

I recommend pulling the Sprocket off completely in order to clean it up so that it can slip fit. What I like to do is take a punch and wrap a piece of 1200 grid sand paper around it, then proceed to polish out the bore of the sprocket until it will slip fit again. Also, keep in mind that the upper framing cam retaining clip could also be in need of replacement, causing the intermittent to gradually fall back into the gear comparment.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 08-09-2006, 01:17 AM:

quote: Eric Robinson
what if I need to move the sprocket towards the inboard side?

being that if the sprocket is plenty snug on the shaft and you've pulled it out too far and the sprocket needs to go back in - I would take a dowel stick and a small rubber mallet to tap the sprocket in to match the outer shoe of the gate on closing.. One tap, then close the gate, if still not enough then repeat the process until the outer edge of the sprocket is flush with the outer edge of the shoe. then tighten down the locknut and screw. (leave the stripper off until everything is all aligned up..then replace the stripper blade. AND don't be stupid, for Ive seen idiots try to take off the sprocket with such force since they have forgotten to take off the stripper first...)

Then, for added measure, I'd take a dentist's mirror and take a look at the teeth/shoe alignment when running film - to see how the teeth are in relation to where the inner and outer shoes are - by looking in the mirror so I can see the reflection of this area. Then, if minute adjustments are needed ....

-Monte

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-09-2006, 08:25 AM:

Monte, Thats a totally WRONG approach! First off you never ever tap on any part of an intermittent at all, always use an arbor press and very carefully at that. Its also easier to bend the intermittent retaining spring clips than one may think... and second, all the projectors sprockets have to be in the same exact operating plane. You never move the sprocket to the shoe! If the intermittent sprocket has to be in some other plane to work properly there is a serious problem with the gate or intermittent sprocket shoe.

Randy,
There are two intermittent retainer clips so even if one breaks off the second one will still hold it in place although the framing tends to become very loose to work with only one ood one.

Randy is correct that removing the sprocket completely and cleaning it up is the correct way to go. If the bore and shaft are just simply cleaned up you will usually end up with a slip fit.... if not then clean the bore with some 1200 grit. Spray Carb Cleaner on a rag works great to clean up these parts. Coat the star shaft with a tiny bit of LaVezzi oil before placing the sprocket back on the shaft and aligning it properly as I described above.

Mark

Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 08-09-2006, 11:28 AM:

It sounds to me like I should remove the intermittent assembly from the machine if the sprocket is bound tightly enough to warrant the use of a gear puller.

By removing the intermittent assembly I will be eliminating the chance of busting or bending the upper framing cam intermittent retaining clips.

Interesting fact stated by Randy above that the retaining clips can become worn out and allow horizontal drift of the intermittent assembly.

I'm glad I asked before getting impatient and using the old vicegrip and hammer approach.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-09-2006, 11:49 AM:

It shouldn't really be absolutely necessary to remove the intermittent for the machine. With the gear puller you are going to be pulling the sprocket towards you off the shaft completely. The old type of retainers do wear out eventually fomr excessive use of the framer. Always replace them with the later style spring slip tyoe of retainer.

Hopefully no one here would use the hammer and vice grip approach... you're dealing with tolerances on the order of those ina typical Rolex Watch... I don't think you'd use a hammer on a watch [Eek!]

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As a last resort you would have to dismantle the movement itself and press the star shaft out of the sprocket on an arbor press.

Mark

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 08-10-2006, 04:41 AM:

Whoops..sorry on that Mark. - some things that I picked up from backalley, home spun technicians...plus, the ton of things that I picked up on my own - the hard way.

-Monte