Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Christie 4K Lamphouse problems

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Posted by Joseph Pandolfi (Member # 223) on 08-28-2006, 09:54 PM:

We have new Christie lamphouses as part of a new theatre that we opened six months ago. Since we opened we are having problems with one in particular which I am open for suggestions. Since opening the autostrike never kicks in, so if the bulb fails to light on the first strike the "lamp out" alarm would go off unless you are there to manually strike the bulb. About two months ago the ammeter only registered volts and no amps when operating. A week later the lamp hourmeter (digital) stopped working and displayed 3.2 hours (It was at 1200 at the time.) Last week we replaced the bulb due to age. On Saturday night on the second evening show the new bulb had to be changed again because air got in and turned black after 28 hours. The bulb was running at 120 amps (on the replaced meter) at the time when I noticed that the screen was almost dark. When the bulb was removed I noticed blue burn marks on the positive side of the igniter wire of the bulb. I also noticed that the reflector was peeling in the back. We are running at the third bulb at the same amperage. My concern is a bad ignitor or power supply.

Posted by Mike Olpin (Member # 1115) on 08-28-2006, 11:57 PM:

At only six months, the whole lamphouse should still be under warranty. Have you tried calling your tech or equiptment suplier?

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 08-29-2006, 12:14 AM:

Pardon my n00bage.
Sounds like there might be some excessive heat in there.
As for the cause could it be a faulty power supply or loose connection from the rectifier to the lamp house maybe?
What's the voltage like?

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 08-29-2006, 12:17 AM:

Agree - check with supplier for warranty issues, esp. with the igniter (prob is the IG13M igniter being for a 4k ..) - just don't do anything with the lamphouse (is it a SLH, or the SLC model)

With bulb failure like that, check exhaust factors inside and outside.

good luck -monte

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-29-2006, 01:08 AM:

normally (at least up here) the dealer must ensure that the manufactures requirements as well as legal requirement s have been met at the time of installation
as such if it is miss behaving during the warranty period the dealer should be required to deal with it if the operational requirement have been met by the end user

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 08-29-2006, 04:43 AM:

The autostrike thing is probably just the relay inside the igniter or a too high setting of the adjustable resistor.
But apart from that, you really have some problems which should be looked at and taken care of under warranty. You probably don't have PS or igniter problems (apart from the autostrike problem). Everything else points to excessive heat and too little exhaust (which are directly related anyway).
You can open the igniter after you have waited for a while with all the breakers off and checked that the DC voltage has bled off the + and - connections (otherwise, very ouch) and simply pull out the relay and replace it with one from a known working similar console. Close the igniter and lamphouse door before you power up again and check if the autostrike now occurs.

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 08-29-2006, 05:08 AM:

Start with determining the "no load" voltage. That is the voltage with the rectifier ON, but with no ignition. 80 or more usually means that the rectifier is OK.

Defective parts are warranty items. Louis

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 08-29-2006, 11:41 AM:

It is unlikely that this is a problem area since the lamp apparently comes on without problems when the ignition switch is hit. But you are right - it is good routine practice to start checking with the no load voltage. It could after all be a combination of things - slightly low voltage plus a too high resistor setting, for instance.
In this case, since the autostrike apparently never occurs, it may not be necessary, but I usually take the relay out when I check the no load voltage because if it happens to trigger, the multimeter will be immediately transported to a better place.

Posted by Joseph Pandolfi (Member # 223) on 08-29-2006, 09:04 PM:

Our technician tells us Christie is using remanufactured reflectors in the assemblies which may explains the peeling. As far as warranty we are well aware of it and taking steps to work with them on it. As far as voltage it is normal. I will let you know at the end of the week as far as air circulation, but I remember that this lamphouse runs cooler than the other ones I work with here after the show ends.

Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 08-29-2006, 09:20 PM:

Remember that the reflective coating is also supposed to absorb some of the IR heat energy. When it comes off, not only do you have less light, but also more IR heat energy in the lamphouse, especially towards the front. This may not always be very obvious in the form of general heating up. Maybe the reflector is simply badly coated and part of the causes of the problems rather than the victim.

Did you check the relay? You can also check for line voltage between 5 (line) and 9 (neutral) on the terminal strip of the igniter. That voltage feeds the relay. If it isn't there for some reason, no autoignition can occur even when the igniter is OK. If you close the manual strike contact, the neutral closes on 8, but you don't have to check that since you already know that works. Since both modes use the same line voltage, it is definitely there on 5, but maybe the neutral connection on 9 is missing or lose, who knows?
It could also be that the diode which senses the ignition voltage is gone or the time delay for the realy is busted. That is the small plugin part that looks like a light bulb. There is a zigzaggy filament inside which sometimes gets smoked.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 08-29-2006, 10:04 PM:

(Kinda interesting on why would Christie use remanufactured mirrors when you think that they wouldn't want to ruin their reputation by stooping low to do such a procedure in a new lamphouse. I think that the tech if doing a good bluff job by pointing fingers on the obvious, but not himself for incorrect installs - but you didn't hear that from me).

When I see a mirror starting to flake thinking the mirror is probably getting too hot, bulb sitting to far back in the mirror, not enough cooling..et.al..

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 09-01-2006, 07:59 AM:

quote: Joseph Pandolfi
as part of a new theatre that we opened six months ago.

Joseph, that wouldn't be the Cine Delux, across from the Shick plant on 95, would it? (What is that, exit 39B?)

Posted by Joseph Pandolfi (Member # 223) on 09-20-2006, 05:59 PM:

Sorry for the late reply - Yes.... Exit 39B Just a stones throw (literally) from the Milford Four-plex I closed in 2004.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-21-2006, 12:22 AM:

I haven't had a chance to read through this in great detail, but after skimming I wanted to point out that although Mike referred to a relay in the ignitor, there are two. Swap the black one.