This is topic RCA 9050 - late SH1000 lat guide roller retrofit in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Sean R. Custer (Member # 3531) on 02-11-2007, 02:48 PM:
Curious to find out if anyone has met with success in retrofitting the Sh-1000 parts that are still available to RCA 9050s.
The point of this being:
that old 9050 metal roller long-since replaced with the early Sh-1000 felt roller (Sh-2043) which is seemingly unobtainable. This is the shouldered style.
I'd like to fit Sh-2050 felt roller (unshouldered) in the 9050, and am hoping to avoid having to swap the whole ass'y flange-flange w/ late model sh-1000 parts. Looks like at the very least i need a shaft & to fabricate some spacers; wondering what else.
thanks in advance for any thoughts
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 02-11-2007, 03:39 PM:
Bearings are the same. Shaft diameter is the same. I have had no problem with all parts from Wolk. Louis
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 02-11-2007, 04:13 PM:
Felt rollers are eons out of production unless you happen to have a N.O.S. part laying around. The only ones available are the rubber style...
Wolk has all the parts for both Simplex and RCA lateral guide roller assys. and remember the best roller is no roller at all. You can actually do without any roller in there but start up time is just longer... not really a problem though.
Mark
Posted by Sean R. Custer (Member # 3531) on 02-11-2007, 06:31 PM:
Thanks for the response,
Didn't think I could do the '5-star roller remove trick' since these don't have the variable tension roller. We're pretty much strictly stereo so I'm loathe to experiment; but if that's not the case...
I think we go thru LaVezzi; didn't know Wolk was still around. Used to have Brekerts so I'm sure we've done Wolk before.
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 12-19-2010, 08:55 PM:
It has been 1407 days since the last post.
Posted by Victor Liorentas (Member # 5272) on 12-19-2010, 08:55 PM:
Sorry to resurrect this thread but...
Mark,are you saying i could remove the dirt embedding rubber roller on my SH1000s and run fine without putting in the metal rollers which Joe Redifier explains in the tips section of the forum?
Posted by Victor Liorentas (Member # 5272) on 12-21-2010, 12:17 AM:
The thing is i am getting an a&b chain performed and would like to remove the rubber roller before this if it's feasible to do so!
The question was directed to Mark Gulbrandsen because of his comment above but if anyone else has knowledge of this...
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 12-21-2010, 07:59 AM:
My understanding is that this could only work on the 5 star. The 9030 and sh-1000 use the same style of arm, but the rest is different. I assume that will not work on them.
Louis
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 12-21-2010, 11:40 AM:
It absolutely works on the 5 Star, as I've converted lots of them (I think I was the first). As far as the SH1000 type, I've only been told it won't work (I believe it was Gordon). I've never actually tried it.
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 12-21-2010, 12:53 PM:
I don't think it would work very well on the SH1000 because there is no tension applied to the film. The friction (dirt embedding) roller is what keeps the film steady by the scanner in that soundhead. You can get away with removing it on the 5-Star because the tension roller below keeps everything in check and sounding good.
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 12-21-2010, 01:59 PM:
However, even on a 5-star, it slows the ramp up speed for changeovers to the point of flutter at changeover.
If the drum on the Simplex was flat across so that at the guide roller could apply pressure to the edges of the film to the drum, this mod would work better.
-Steve
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 12-21-2010, 03:45 PM:
With the roller in place it takes a few seconds for the 5-star to settle. With the mod there is little to no bowing of the film between the drum and the tensioner no matter how you position the it (so long as it has some tension). Both completely settle just fine within 5 seconds.
Posted by Victor Liorentas (Member # 5272) on 12-21-2010, 03:54 PM:
I wish it would work on the SH1000 ![[Frown]](frown.gif)
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 12-21-2010, 08:52 PM:
It doesn't bow because it is slipping, not because it is up to speed.
-Steve
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 12-22-2010, 12:13 AM:
Joe, thread one up on your next shift with the tension roller in the halfway position. Upon starting the projector it will bulge at the sound drum. Once you see the bulge start to retract you have hit speed.
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 12-22-2010, 05:37 AM:
It does not bulge.
Posted by Victor Liorentas (Member # 5272) on 12-22-2010, 03:46 PM:
Is there a sure fire cleaning method for the dirt embedding roller anyone can recommend?
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-22-2010, 06:24 PM:
buy a new one
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 12-22-2010, 06:25 PM:
Replace it with a new G-1985...oops you said RCA-9030...wrong part. I believe Wolk still has new pinch rollers. That is a "sure-fire" method of having it clean. ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
It is easier to keep the roller clean with daily cleaning rather than waiting for it to accumulate and embed.
Be careful about using ANY solvents around it as liquids are likely to wick into the bearings or onto the shaft and cause them to fail.
-Steve
Edited to note the mistake in part number (Simplex versus RCA).
Posted by Ian Parfrey (Member # 5122) on 12-22-2010, 07:11 PM:
...or remove the roller as per the instructions in the tips section and get the centre section undercut leaving two thin "tyres" onn either side of the roller.
Posted by Victor Liorentas (Member # 5272) on 12-22-2010, 08:49 PM:
Hi Ian
Have you done what you described before?
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 12-22-2010, 09:02 PM:
steve he has SH1000 not RCA
Posted by Ian Parfrey (Member # 5122) on 12-22-2010, 11:19 PM:
Victor.
I have, many years ago, on an RCA Photophone soundhead- model number I can't recollect but most likely the 1050. The tricky part is to make sure the turning tool used to undercut the roller is VERY sharp and to take small cuts. Also make sure there is a 2mm or 5/16" tyre left at either end of the roller. If turning is not your forte, then perhaps taking the part to a shop to do may be an option.
The advantages I found were