This is topic Film Gate Colling Systems in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008550
Posted by Paul Stevens (Member # 4016) on 03-05-2007, 04:05 PM:
I have a bunch of these blue tank submerged pump systems that have been turned off for various reasons. Most because the pumps have failed or the collant has become a biohazard. Before I attempt to resurrect any of these things, I need to know what I am in for. Best and least expensive solutions.
Thanks
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-05-2007, 06:58 PM:
Sounds like an Ex-Cineplex booth to me. They most likely contain antifreeze 50% distilled and 50% Prestone similar to a car. Empty the tanks into approved containers and dispose of the old anitfreeze at a local oil change place or similar. Clean out the tanks and test the pumps... probably Silent Giants... replace the bad ones and re-fil the tanks with 50% distilled water and 50% Prestone. I don't reccomend using any of the cheaper antifreeze solutions because I've had bad experiences with them growing the green slime.
Hope this helps...
Mark
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 03-06-2007, 05:59 AM:
You can also run straigt distilled water and dump it down the drain with confidence. However, without the antifreeze the system can grow bateria so you will need to change out the water more often...say every 6-12 months but other than that, I've had no problem with straight distilled.
Another, better than just antifreeze, is Tyfocor which is an Ethelyne-glycol type solution...just 1 part in 5 (tyfocor and distilled water) is sufficient to keep bateria down to zilch and the system seems to almost never discolor (it is a clear solution). The trick is finding it in the states.
Posted by Marc Hansen (Member # 705) on 03-06-2007, 10:10 AM:
Mark/Steve-
Have you ever talked to someone supplying machining coolants? I use some coolants that last a very long time with no bacterial growth. They also have additives to prevent growth availible seperatly. With hazmat such a big issue in my industry a lot of these coolants are designed to be totaly legit to dump. Also keeping your coolant clean helps alot. The little buggers love to eat oil.
Marc
Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 03-06-2007, 10:34 AM:
You can use "water wetter" from Redline Chemicals. It is just an additive that inhibits bacteria/fungus/mould/gunge growth without any antifreeze properties. In Canada, Canadian Tire has it. Obviously if your booth gets below freezing you do want antifreeze, but it was really used in these circulators to stop the gunge growing and possibly help avoid corrosion - not for antifreeze duty. Pure distilled water works fine if you keep an eye on it and change it every year or so. Don't use tap water, depending on the hardness you will soon get the tiny gate tubes blocked with lime or something.
Some antifreeze attacks the paint on the submersible pumps turning it into nasty gluey goop, Prestone seems OK but I would only use 20% or so.
With a lamp over 3KW I would want the cooling system working.
Try to get magnetic drive pumps for replacements, the direct drive ones don't last as long in my experience.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-06-2007, 04:54 PM:
Never had any problems with a 50/50 mix of Prestone and Distilled Water. Just an occasional (1 or 2 a year) Silent Giant pump failure out of about a hundred or so water cooled booths. For what ever reason bacteria won't grow in Prestone, that mix also affords the best heat transfer.
Mark
Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 03-07-2007, 07:45 AM:
I didn't think the Little Giant pumps were that great; several of them have failed on me and many of those leaked (they are full of oil.) The blue tanks from Strong had the Little Giant pumps, which I didn't like, but the tank could be pretty well sealed up so there was no evaporation. OTOH, the metal tanks had a pump setup where the motor was outside (on top) and only the impeller was submerged. But the down side was the tank could not be sealed, causing evaporation. Although, I admit that the blue Strong tanks with the LG pumps are probably the best price value.
Mark had a picture of a great-looking circulation pump set up you could buy from his company, but I can't find in now...
Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 03-07-2007, 03:30 PM:
Dave, we use that Redline Water Wetter stuff -- yellowish color and have had great luck with it. According to the manufacturer it helps improves heat transfer, which is a plus. And we have keeps it without any need to change for over a year....no gunk nothing that seems like it would impare the water flow.
Mark, do you have a model for the Silent Giant pumps and a supplier that carries these? I Googled for submersible pumps and I got a slew of them, most of which had specs that I wasn't sure about. Seems like the ones that are similar to the size of that match what we have in the blue tanks all had "lift" numbers that seemed really low, like 1.5 feet....2.5 feet? I mean, the pump should be able to lift the water up to at least 4ft to the projector head, no? Pumps that had a lift number that high were much bigger than what are used in the blue tanks. Or maybe I am just not understanding what that parameter means exactly, although "lift" seems pretty self-explanitory.
I am putting together two home-brew coolers and need to buy two good pumps.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 03-07-2007, 03:44 PM:
It isn't silent giant but little giant pumps
The best cooler is the kinoton
the old ashcraft and arcals were good
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 05-20-2015, 02:44 PM:
It has been 2995 days since the last post.
Posted by Mario Neto (Member # 8702) on 05-20-2015, 02:44 PM:
hello
I'm from Brazil and give support to a network of cinemas
we con difficulty getting coolant to the projectors
would have some formula to produce home this liquid?
thank you
Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-20-2015, 07:25 PM:
I guess you guys have no use for automobile antifreeze?
But it should be available. Use 50/50 mix with plain or distilled water of glycol concentrated car antifreeze, or just straight "premixed" car antifreeze.
Freezing will not be a problem of course - nor temps over 100C, but the glycol helps eliminate algae and bacteria growth that forms slimy sludge which clogs and blocks the cooling hoses and pipes. Using plain water you have to change it regularly. Even using (wasting?) straight tap water running through the projector and then straight down the drain can cause mineral deposit buildups inside the cooling pipes/jackets and clog the system.
Posted by Stephan Shelley (Member # 8587) on 05-20-2015, 08:18 PM:
One could use the jeffcool that Christie uses in their digital projectors as well.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 05-20-2015, 10:03 PM:
Yea, but which Jeffcool? There are a whole bunch of them.
http://www.huntsman.com/performance_products/a/Products/Glycols/JEFFCOOL_R%20coolants
Posted by Stephan Shelley (Member # 8587) on 05-20-2015, 10:22 PM:
JEFFCOOL E105 which is what Christie uses.
Posted by Chris Markiewicz (Member # 1415) on 05-21-2015, 10:23 AM:
Frank, the Little Giant model 1-A pumps we used in the drive-ins were from Grainger, part #1P939. They were good for about 2-3 years in service. We used 1 part regular Prestone to 3 parts water in the blue busckets, had minimal mold problems.