quote: Steve Guttag

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Odd...#4 is normally a finer cut than #2 if going by the Swiss cut patterns.

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That's right. It even says that on the website. I was just momentarily confused.

Also,

230-314-2 4" #2
230-314-2/0 4" #00
230-336-4 6" #4

from the same website.

Has anyone experimented with something like a Dremel tool to shorten the time for basic, rough cutting? Although the #00 file above is already quite hungry, it will also tear out pieces off lesh from your arm if you aren't careful (I normally wear a glove on the left hand anyway though, because of the heat).
 

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Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 03-20-2007, 10:24 PM:
 
I have used a dremel with a portable mill vise Hand holding not good....a nibbler for hand held is better.... remember a face mask.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-21-2007, 09:24 AM:
 
LaVezzi makes one that is easy to get and inexpensive. It is a precision made file and cuts the best square corners I've seen done and it last a very long time. I think its part# AF-12 or something like that... They have just the one style so its good for casual filing or touching up a sloppy job. If you file alot then a complete set as above is best.

Mark
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 03-21-2007, 10:36 AM:
 
LaVezzi's is a #2 cut and is a bit short for my liking. It is thinner than standard pillar files though so that would helf a bit in the corners.

They also have a half-round file which can be useful for corners as well as for shaping for a curved screen.

Personally, I have a rather full set as well as precision set that has things like a 3-corner square which is great for corners.
 

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Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 03-21-2007, 10:59 AM:
 
Gee Whiz, Brad

How many threads are there going tobe about cutting aperature plates, all discussing the same thing?

Once again, look for Grobet files, available through any decent lapidary supply. You need files that are "safe" meaning that one or more surfaces are without cutting teeth. The file should also be non-tapered and have square (non-radius) corners.

Brass and other non-ferrous metals like aluminum can do an excellent job of clogging files. One of the oldest tool-makers tricks is to have some good-ole chalk-board chalk in your tool box. After every other stroke or so, the file should be reloaded with chalk. This will prevent file damage and all the chips can be easily removed with a light tap on a table-top and swipe with a file card.

Two of the best ways to ruin a file: files are meant to cut on the push-stroke, not on the pull-stroke. Also, storing files together w/o a protective sleeve (letting them bang against each other).

Finally, when cutting aperatures, make sure you deburr the damn things. I was personally injured by a moron-tech who did not deburr. Basically, a burr was present and looked like a piece of lint on the screen, a major distraction for the audience. Luckily, I cought it during the trailers, so I stopped the presentation to clean. Turned out is was a burr upon which I cut myself (like a bad paper cut) and started bleeding all over the place.

K
 

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Posted by Richard May (Member # 2627) on 03-21-2007, 12:36 PM:
 
Sorry Will but when I did a search for this specific topic that I asked about, nothing relevant came up. If you think I missed something, then maybe you can point it out for me.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-21-2007, 05:35 PM:
 
Richard... Pay no attention to the irrlevant hissing going on above you! There have been discussions in the past on filing and such but they may have been part of other threads. Sometimes they are difficult to find at best.

Mark
 

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Posted by Michael Schaffer (Member # 1204) on 03-21-2007, 08:34 PM:
 

quote: Will Kutler

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Once again, look for Grobet files

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