This is topic LED reader advice needed. in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 543) on 04-02-2007, 12:37 PM:
I have a stereo Christie 35 I want to upgrade with a red light source for the new sound strip.
I see RSEM offers a few direct replacement options. I've called several times but no one ever answers so I'm turning to you guys for advice.
I see two models that will improve my sound.
This one but I do not think it has a red light source?
http://www.rsem.com/equipment-details.asp?partnum=AT-1297
Or this one:
http://www.rsem.com/equipment-details.asp?partnum=RSTR-2000KB
These are not cheap so I want to buy right first time around. I do not see red LED mentioned for the first listed product but it looks to offer the best specs but if it does not have a red light source then it may not do me any good and you may recommend the second option. Thanks for your help!!
Robert Throop from this forum will perform the install and alignment.
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 04-02-2007, 12:49 PM:
Both are red light reader systems. The first one is made by Kelmar and the second is made by Bay Area Cinema Products.
Despite your claim, they are both "cheap" in cost considering the production volume versus what you are getting. Nobody is really getting rich there.
You also need not use RS Engineering if they are not giving you the service you want...you can go to a local dealer, you know...odds are you could buy either one from them too.
Both will work well though many find the BACP to be the superior performance of the two.
Steve
Posted by Demetris Thoupis (Member # 833) on 04-02-2007, 01:56 PM:
Go for the BACP one. You can find more info on this site . Contact Sam and he will be more than willing to help you.
Posted by Alan Gouger (Member # 543) on 04-02-2007, 01:57 PM:
Hi Steve
This is for my private screening room. I do not have a local dealer per say. I've never shopped via one. Mostly bought everything through forum members/ Internet so far. I just want to make sure I buy the right thing.
Thanks for the reply.
Demetris
Thanks for the link!!
Edit: Just ordered from Sam. Very helpful. Thanks everyone.
Posted by Alban Birch (Member # 4121) on 04-02-2007, 02:46 PM:
We have Kelmars on our XLs and they sound freekin' awesome. I can't tell anything about the BACP.
You may want to look into Lasers. Just replace the Exciter and Lens by the Laser, move your Cell (which you keep) 2mm away from the Film and of course realign everything.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-02-2007, 04:46 PM:
quote: Steve Guttag
Nobody is really getting rich there.
Donno, Sam bought a new BMW a few months back! I'll also second the BACP reader though, its a tough act to beat... Sam's BMW is also tough to beat unless you have a Frearri. He claims he rarely gets it over 15 MPH in the traffic out there though...
quote: Alban Birch
Just replace the Exciter and Lens by the Laser, move your Cell
Any chance you have to get rid the cell is a positive chance! Many of the downside problems with stereo SVA lie in the cell itself, poor cross talk and higher harmonic distortion levels are a couple.
Mark
Posted by Sam D. Chavez (Member # 1841) on 04-02-2007, 05:41 PM:
It's a mere Audi A4 although it is the 3.2 direct injection 6 speed model. No GPS though.
Posted by Phil Hill (Member # 371) on 04-02-2007, 05:43 PM:
Sam, get a TomTom...
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 04-02-2007, 05:45 PM:
I dunno Mark...you've put in a bunch of those BACP readers and are still driving around your beat up truck with an Arbor press banging into everything!
Sam didn't get the Beamer from the red reader money...there is no way he would have taken environmentally friendly money from the red reader to go out and get a Earth warming internal combustion engine
(unless it is a hybrid...which would make sense for those 15MPH trips). I say it was the THX D1138 that bought the BMW.
Steve
Posted by Sam D. Chavez (Member # 1841) on 04-02-2007, 05:48 PM:
Huh?
I was just indirectly pointing out Mark's common and likeable tendency toward exaggeration.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-02-2007, 06:44 PM:
quote:
I dunno Mark...you've put in a bunch of those BACP readers and are still driving around your beat up truck with an Arbor press banging into everything!
Naw, its not my beat up truck.... Its a CLACO Truck... 263,000 miles but it still runs great so why get rid of it... comfortable like an old pair of jeans. This one failed permanently at 485,000 miles... it was Earl's service van and he was hoping to get to 500K... inside it was very organized though! John Eickoff used to drive it when he worked for CLACO a long time ago... those that know John wonder how he ever fit in there...

Now my KIA Sportage may be a sad excuse for an old vehicle but it doesn't spend time on the highway in traffic... the advantage here is that it leaves full size trucks behind on those old mining roads that are too narrow for full sizers to get through... its never let me down either and hey... if it rolls off a cliff oh well.....
.
Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 04-02-2007, 10:24 PM:
WEll, 485K on a Toyota isn't too bad to sneeze at - and prob on the original motor...
Even Mark's work van with 265K miles on it isn't bad either - just barely broke in (and I bet they run Mobil 1 in the crankcase..).
Road miles doesn't hurt any vehicle, but it's the town/stop and go stuff that kills vehicles..
But, a question on the BACP units (wonderful units by the way): being that a wal-wart powers the unit intead of the power supply with adjustable trimpot to shoot up the LED voltage that the CE units uses, how do you increase the LED intensity when it's time to turn things up?
Posted by Sam D. Chavez (Member # 1841) on 04-02-2007, 11:59 PM:
We are the only reader maker that does not offer LED current adjustment.
The Wall wart is just the basic power supply. The DC to DC convertor board comprises one side of the electronics board.
We came out with a super efficient lens that allowed lower LED operating current than the other makers so we decided on non adjustable LED current.
The tendency of a lot of techs (none here right?) is to floor the controls to make Dolby level and leave town with an LED running at 500 mAmps. We do have gain jumpers on the removable electronics board that give 6dB more gain to allow for LED aging.
In our experience the LED will make Dolby level for about 3 years and cutting links gives another 2. As they say, "Your mileage may vary".
Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 04-04-2007, 02:50 AM:
I've been using the BACP's on our Christies for right at 4 years now with no problems. The only thing I did was to set up a relay to cut the power off to the LED power supply (a 9v plug-in transformer) so I wouldn't be using up the life of the LED too quickly. I also did this with my Dolby CAT.701 readers.
Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 04-04-2007, 08:49 AM:
Small suggestion: Power anyone's LED system from an outlet wired across the drive motor. No parts needed and its is only on with the motor.
On mono systems that switch the "exciter" I get the AC from the motor lead and loop through the exciter contacts so that the LED goes hot at the appropriate time. Again, no parts. Louis
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 04-04-2007, 09:00 AM:
There are pros and cons to doing as Louis states. Most of these systems do not wake up in a quiet fashion...as such if the sound system is live and looking at that soundhead when you power it up, you will get a a combination of sounds from the power supply waking up as well as the LED coming on instantly. This is particularly true of mono system that don't switch to a non-sync while the film is not running.
Some supplies, like CE's LS40 have a soft start for the LED and a set of contacts that can be used to just ramp up the LED or ramp it down. A little known fact is you can have CE configure those contacts for either N.O. or N.C. operation (short to turn it off, short to turn it on). We have successfully retroed an old changeover system that used exciterlamp changeovers and it worked perfectly (Family Drive-In).
Now if you have a modern cinema processor and are switching it to non-sync or some other non-film format, then just switching the supply is no problem and is indeed recommended.
Steve
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