Please share. Have an idea of my own, but haven't tried it yet. It is quite anoying since the vertical and focus controls interact with that single pin holding the anode mount.
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 04-26-2010, 01:07 AM:
It has been 1075 days since the last post.
Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 04-26-2010, 01:07 AM:
Well, I finally got around to cutting the original 6" exhaust to an 8" opening using a jigsaw to do the cutting.
The back of the opening was kept in place while shifting the opening towards the front of the console and keeping it centered left and right.
I picked up the 8" collars (removed the adhesive foam seal that would have been exposed to the lamp) from Home Depot and ordered the 8"x8' semi-rigid aluminum flex ducting from Ace Hardware Outlet. Total cost of materials was about $150 and roughly 1.5hrs labor/console. I taped up plastic to the underside of the opening to catch the shavings/scraps and covered the projector head as well.
Pulling an average 850cfm now and the top of the console is considerably cooler to the touch. I have 4 of these consoles still in use with one now pulling just over 900cfm, but it has only about a 3ft run from the roof to the top of the projector.
Here are some pics of the first console I modified.


Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 04-27-2010, 09:37 PM:
Forgot to mention that I also boosted the internal air flow as well by stacking 2 of the fans together. It was a bit tricky to do, but worth it.
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 04-28-2010, 05:53 PM:
Stacking muffin fans works....we used to replace it with a small plenum box with a squirrel cage fan with much greater CFM....no more bulb or reflector peeling problems. Our $2.50 fix on the focus shaft was a shaft collar and leaf pressure springs....
Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 04-28-2010, 11:04 PM:
Hey Richard,
You wouldn't happen to be able to get pics of that focus fix?