Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Surviving the CFS Super Platter

This is topic Surviving the CFS Super Platter in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008680

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 04-30-2007, 02:05 PM:

I've decided to build this thread out of the skeleton of other threads on the subject and to help all those poor souls running CFS stupor platters...All 3 of us [Wink]

I hope this will be well received and give some help and a good laugh where needed.

Enjoy!

Timing:
All that is really required to 'time' a Blue Super Platter or a NSP-3 is to make sure that the microswitch operates with a minimum of payout arm throw, and that the rubber on the rollers is firmly gripping the platter decks without excessive tension or slippage.
Timing CFS super platters

Drive wheel belt:
Kirby vacuum belt p/n: 301291 (with criss-cross tread).
Note: Clean the plastic rollers thoroughly. Remove all rubber particles, grease, oil, etc. Install new belts tread-side in on both rollers.

Centerfeed microswitch:
Grainger 6X284 or official switch from Lighting Images Technology.
On Grainger switch remove 1 ounce tension spring.
Casing is separate from actual microswitch.

Platter motors:
CFS platter motors came from Lamb Electric (division of Ametek), the OEM supplier of the motors.
The motors are not available at retail (the Grainger part number 2M262 motor DOES NOT work for CFS or early Potts platters as the shaft lengths are different.)
Contact Dick Niccum at Lighting Images Technologies.

Routine maintenance:
Coming soon!

Posted by James Westbrook (Member # 3690) on 04-30-2007, 02:14 PM:

This reminds me of why Cinemark took out the Super Platters in Plainview and replaced them with older Specos ("Drive-Ins") that were taken from the 2 closed former Mann theatres in Amarillo and Lubbock... [Razz]

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 04-30-2007, 02:16 PM:

(not familar with the CFS units - but wonder if the 2M262 can be used and order the large half-inch motor sleeve from STRONG...)

Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 04-30-2007, 02:45 PM:

Good thread. Here's what I have found in my own experiences with this beast:

The timing process is described in the manual. This will get you in the ballpark, but I've always had to make adjustments by feel when running a film.

Deck capacity is supposedly 210 minutes' worth of film. I've never tested this.

Do not leave the motors in the "breakdown" position except when actually breaking down film. Leaving them in this position will wear out the little rubber "spring" things that hold the motors against the decks.

I've never had any luck in breaking down from the top or bottom deck. I strongly recommend only using the middle deck for makup and breakdown.

The platter motors and the MUT can operate at scary speeds. I don't run more than 50% or so when making up or breaking down (this is roughly equivalent to full speed on a Christie).

Peter Mork probably has some more ideas, since he has (had?) one or two of these at his theatre.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-30-2007, 03:51 PM:

Along with this thread one titled "Surviving the Neurotic Platter" would also be a good idea.... [Roll Eyes]

.

Mark

Posted by Ken Lackner (Member # 1002) on 04-30-2007, 07:40 PM:

Mark, I think that's something you and I can and should work on! [Wink]

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-30-2007, 09:35 PM:

This is much better suited as an instructional video by Joe Redifer. Are there any strong guys who want to volunteer to be in it? The video will of course require the use of sledgehammers as well as carrying the parts of the example Super platter onto the roof so that it may be thrown into the dumpster from a nice distance.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-30-2007, 09:44 PM:

I will volunteer my new cutting torch so you can obliterate the column. Or simply place it in front of a fast moving train.

MArk

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 05-01-2007, 02:20 AM:

Actually, I could take some videos with my snazzy new digicam [Wink]

As far as make-up/breakdown goes for the top and bottom decks you need the roller-bar for the mut and the horizontal feed roller that mounts to the table-top on it.

My recommendations for that idler roller bracket are to put 2 quarter inch bolts through it with washers on the top and bottom.

With the deck selection rollers once you find the "sweet spot" for their height lock them down as tight as they go.

Any play in the brackets will send the film flying right off them at MUT speeds.

Also the rollers on the top and bottom of the column have keeper rollers on them. These should be moved to the rear of the rollers where they will be as close to the apex of the curve as possible thus preventing their contact with the film while it is running.
Keepers are simply for threading convenience!

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 05-02-2007, 12:07 AM:

Remember, this is ultimately just a Potts that is poorly made. All parts are available (in some form) from Potts. The upgrades will elevate it almost to a Potts, especially the feed outs. Louis

Posted by Scott D. Neff (Member # 185) on 05-02-2007, 10:59 AM:

I thought I was the only person in the world that ever tried to build or break from the top or bottom of a Super Platter, and even when I did it was just for novelty. I was also the guy that liked to use the old AW-1 build up tables instead of the Super Platter's just because they didn't go lightning speed, that and we had a pile of them.

Posted by Dominic Espinosa (Member # 2122) on 05-02-2007, 08:26 PM:

Well, Scott. I'm a novelty kinda guy myself. I have a tendency to try and make something work the way it should or the way I think it should just so I can say it does...
The Stupid platter is no exception.
For example. If I ever get around to it I'll be posting my version of the breakdown clutch featured in the tips section.