This is topic Is there an adaptor for small shaft reel spindles? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 07-16-2007, 12:04 PM:
 
We have Kelmar arms with small shaft spindles which we need for 2000ft reels. On occasion we do use 6000ft reels. I know that the large shaft for 6000ft reels are more robust and would be the better choice IF we were using LP reels exclusively, but I can't give up the flexibility of being able to use 2000ft reels.

To that end, is there an off-the-shelf shaft adaptor that can just slip over the smaller shaft spindle so it can accomodate the larger shaft reels? Or should I just order 6000ft reels with the standard small shaft and be done with it? I have a few large shaft 6000ft reels and it would me nice if I could use them as well.
 

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Posted by James Westbrook (Member # 3690) on 07-16-2007, 12:27 PM:
 
Frank,
I remember that Potts had an adaptor for their build-up tables that simply slipped on the smaller spindle. This allowed theatres to put the big spindle reels on the tables and the smaller spindle for tear down. These may be too long for the Kelmar arms, though, not allowing the reel to be secured on the arm. (I forget what the end piece on the operator end of the shaft is called, but if isn't closed the reel may come off.)
 

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Posted by Michael Moore (Member # 3867) on 07-16-2007, 12:35 PM:
 
If you have access to a metal lathe they are very easy to make, or just get a local machinist to make you some, I'm sure they would not cost that much. Some times tech schools will do the work for free for practice, I know i did when i took classes people would come in all the time needing stuff made from gears, to shaft reduces, and boring out holes, you name it. And it was free for them and experience for us.

Mike
 

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Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-16-2007, 12:55 PM:
 
Somewhere here I have a similar adapter made by Neumade to convert 35mm rewinds to 70mm. This slips over the 5/16" reel and attaches with a set screw. Might be OK for occasional use. Louis
 

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Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 07-16-2007, 01:37 PM:
 
I tried one of our 1/2" adapters in a Kelmar; the key is not long enough to engage the slot on the inside of our adapter, but there is a set screw on the bottom that can be screwed against the Kelmar shaft.


 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 07-16-2007, 01:47 PM:
 
OMG...just stop with "I don't know" advice.

On a MUT...one is normally dealing with a dog pin so a mere 5/16" to 1/2" sleeve will do you...however it won't work for a keyed 5/16" to a 1/2" that uses a dog pin to drive the reel.

Those adapters that will provide the necessary change in the shaft will throw off the lateral alignment too. Again, not an issue so much on a MUT or rewind since if both reels are kicked out the same amount...all works. However, with a reel reference to the projector...the projector sets the lateral position. Resetting the reel arms to deal with the adapters would be courting disaster and one might find there isn't enough range anyway.

What you should do if you want to use 1/2" holes for 6K reels (a really good idea, in my opinion) is to convert the arms over. You will want the 35/70 version of the spindles sans the 70mm shaft. They are two piece such that the spindle portion detatches with three cap screws but leaves the part in the bearings/clutches behind. It might be a tad expensive to convert them over but it will be cheaper than new reels and ultimately be a better system. This presumes you have 7000 series reel arms...if they are 8000 series, I don't think the parts exist. I would talk to Tom at Kelmar and he can probably tell you of any of the parts you will need and any possible pitfalls.

[ 07-16-2007, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: Steve Guttag ]
 

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Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 07-16-2007, 02:00 PM:
 
We have a "reversible" spindle that pulls out of the MUT -- large on one end, small on the other and tightens with a setscrew. (Christie AW3). I'm not sure if it was off the shelf or custom made, Mark G. might know -- we got it from Claco, but before he worked there. I like it, it takes about 10 seconds to change.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-16-2007, 02:49 PM:
 
Intersting that Mike had to order a reversable spindle for his CHR MK35 MUT, for that is usally is a standard.

..and you can use 13k reels on those MK-35 MUTS

STRONG sells those 1/2" sleeves for use on a 5/16" spindles on their MUTS. I have boo-koo plenty of then in our inventory - which works great also on a KELMAR spindle ...

Chek your supplier on ordering, either those sleeves or an actual 1/2" Kelmar spindle-which there are two kinds - one with a set small-pin dog key that fits in the holes of the reel next to the center hole, or one that has an adjustable large dog key for different spacing of hubs's finger holes.
 

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Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 07-16-2007, 02:59 PM:
 
Oops .. I thought Frank meant rewind tables...
 

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Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 07-16-2007, 04:22 PM:
 
By the way, those Neumade adapters are great, but they are also a great way to shear off your 5/16" keys. (In terms of spacing, Steve, presumably you could use a spacer for the 1/2" shafts...)

Indeed, the Kelmar changeable reel arms are quite nice. Though honestly it's a shame nobody's made something a bit faster to convert. I've been so spoiled by our Bauer U4s that convert from 16mm to 35mm in 8 seconds (4 seconds to slide the Selekton II on place, 4 seconds to change the lens and aperture); when I saw what it took to convert a JJ from 35 to 70, it seemed like eons by comparison...

--jhawk
 

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Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 07-16-2007, 04:52 PM:
 
Knowing the shyster that we bought that equipment from, he probably took it out of the package and hoped to sell it to us later. (He's been out of business for about 20 years now, and is dead also, so no worries anymore!)
 

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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 07-16-2007, 06:10 PM:
 
Thanks guys, but seems like any of the adaptors that can work will wind up with the same problem that Steve points out -- offsetting the film feed line into or out of the projector. It would require the arm to be repositioned.

When I am no longer married to this venue, from then on it will always require a free-lance projectionist to be called in to run the shows during the summer. I can't leave the booth with that kind of an issue that is going to spook a pickup operator. I've got to make it as simple and as least error-prone as possible. Asking a new-be to deal with spindle adaptors and arm repositioning every time we use 6000ft reels is asking for trouble. And quite frankly, I don't want to have other projectionists cursing my name every time they work that booth.

We'll go with the existing 5/16th shafts so that 2000ft & 6000ft reels can be used without any arm modification being needed and without projectionists cursing. They can sell the two existing 6000ft reels on ebay. Or exchange then with someone who wants to get rid of a couple of 5/16th shaft 6000fters.

Thanks again guys.
-
And thanks for the pic John -- and yes indeed, that adaptor would create an offset that would require a lot more reposition of the arm than the elongated adjustment slots on the Kelmar are would allow. The adaptor could be machined down more -- by the looks of it, probably more than half the body would have to go in order to make the arms work. Too impractical.
 

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Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-16-2007, 08:48 PM:
 
What you really need is to convert the Kelmar reel arms to the same set up that a Christie mut has. That way you can reverse the shaft without losing the alignment reference. Good thinking, Steve! Louis
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 07-16-2007, 09:50 PM:
 
Frank...do you have 8000 series arms or 7000 series?

If you have 7000 series arms then you can probably install the 35/70 parts (same casting you currently have). If you are familiar with the Norelco, Century or Kinoton changable spindles...it is the same idea. All one need do is remove the spindle and change it with the size desired, once modified. The part that goes through the bearings and aligns with the projector stays put...just the spindle portion changes. You may have to offset the arm ONCE 17.5mm to get things to line up (and I think Kelmar has the offset plates). The spindle portions are held on by three allen screws...once this system is so modified, it is brain dead simple.

Kelmar 35/70 Arms

As to easiest spindles to change in history...easy...Kinoton DP-75...has all others beat by a long shot...time to change spindle....1-second...maybe...way cool.

Current Kinotons are reasonably fast...loosen three screws and like a bayonet rotate and remove...rotate the new spindle on and snug up the three screws.

Again...all of you with the MUT advice...that was not the question. Do you all respond just to see your responses? It just confuses the issue as one has to sift through accurate but irrelevent information. Aren't these forums supposed to be moderated?

Steve
 

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Posted by Michael Moore (Member # 3867) on 07-16-2007, 11:20 PM:
 
Simple question Steve, I never mentioned MUT just for him to make the parts himself. Was what I said irrelevant or useless.
 

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Posted by Chris Slycord (Member # 4239) on 07-17-2007, 12:33 AM:
 

quote: Michael Moore

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Simple question Steve, I never mentioned MUT just for him to make the parts himself. Was what I said irrelevant or useless.

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quote: Frank Angel

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To that end, is there an off-the-shelf shaft adaptor

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quote: Michael Moore

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come on Steve what is there to understand?

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And there it is...you don't understand what is being asked for. What Frank wants is an easy way to switch between 5/16" and 1/2" spindles to accommodate the different reels. He has also indicated (not on the first post but later on) that he doesn't want it to be a project to make the switch back and forth...something simple.

It is one thing to remove or loosen three screws and change the spindle, it is another to disassemble the shaft assembly and retension or align the whole thing. That is what needs to be understood.

My beef is with not answering the question...not with the information stated...in the right situation, it would be useful. In this case, it just confuses the issue because it doesn't answer the question at all.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-17-2007, 01:11 PM:
 
Course, I have to apologize as well with shooting my info in since I'm one of those who can't read too well and only read what I wanted to read.

I saw the word "Kelmar" and my mind immediately shot to the rewind table - not to those arms on a projector - after I reread Frank's request of an adapter.

My apologies to Frank and others on this one. Please teach me to read better in the future.
 

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Posted by Michael Moore (Member # 3867) on 07-17-2007, 01:35 PM:
 
Oh might Steve!
I bow my head in reverence and praise the all mighty, all knowing Steve; for he chastises us all and tells us how we are all dumb. Oh great and wonderful Steve how I am so ashamed of my inability to understand, please forgive me! I am so sorry frank for not understanding your needs and question; hence relaying such awful, wrong, uninformative, and distracting solutions to your problem. My feeble mind can not grasp these questions… I shall never post again, We must all never post again for the all powerful knowing Steve will answer all, for he is the end of the Universe the Alpha and Omega, the all inquisitive, I beg for your forgiveness, all knowing and powerful God Guttag!!!


 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 07-17-2007, 01:53 PM:
 
A bit over the top, don't you think?
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-17-2007, 01:57 PM:
 

quote: Steve Guttag

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A bit over the top, don't you think?

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Not at all....
 

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Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 07-19-2007, 12:04 PM:
 
Seems like a properly reverent reply. I can't agree that nobody but Steve should post answers, though. And expecting us to exactly understand the question and post only exactly appropriate replies is asking too much.
However, usually someone who read and understood the question says the answer was wrong - and hopefully why. Then we should re-read the original post and think for a while about whether we or the other person was right before cranking off a new post telling the other guy what a jerk he is. That usually just identifies us as closed minded egocentric idiots.
There's no easy fix for the reel arm spindle. Some projectors, generally 35/70mm ones - have easily removable spindles with all the various drive sizes and keying arrangements available. I don't know of a non-OEM reel arm with this feature but there may be some. Kelmar may be able to make arms with rewind-style spindles that use the snap-in adapters.
You can get 6,000 foot reels with 5/16 shafts. Sooner or later the reel will fall off; full 6,000 foot reels are just too much weight for the shaft size, so it breaks at the flange due to work hardening.
 

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Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 07-19-2007, 03:01 PM:
 
Hi, Frank; Would something like this work for a cheap fix?


 

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Posted by Michael Moore (Member # 3867) on 07-19-2007, 04:39 PM:
 
I felt I needed to praise the God Guttag.

However I remember back when I asked a question about what projector was worth getting, the Simplex Apogee, or the Century MSC.
The first few posts addressed the question I asked, then out of the blue the topic was changed to Kinoton’s rule and everything sucks, and what is everyone’s favorite projector and people were all over the place. And Steve was in the thick of it. I never once complained about keeping on track or posting correct info or just not replying if you did not know. People stared posting about all kinds of stuff till Brad asked the final question to bring it all back on track, “I just want to know what projector he is going to go with?”
I respect Steve I think he is very knowledgeable about all of this stuff, I like his advice. I however like to make things, and I see opportunities like this one to kind of invent a way around the issue and make my own stuff that’s all, it is advice in a different way, that’s all.

Mike
 

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Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 07-19-2007, 05:17 PM:
 
OK, I admit my guilt here with regard to the "MUT" related solution. I didn't see this thread until it was a few posts in, and I misread the original question. I was thinking he WAS asking about a MUT spindle adaptor. I didn't even realize how I'd gone off the track until reviewing the thread just now.

Apologies for the inconvenience to all concerned.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-19-2007, 05:42 PM:
 

quote:

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The first few posts addressed the question I asked, then out of the blue the topic was changed to Kinoton’s rule and everything sucks

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quote: Mark Gulbrandsen

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His gear wouldn't hold up worth a hoot.

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Yea, those kids would take his 20 plus year old CIRO splicer which has prob worked like a champ all these years, and in one week from working with it - have the blades bent and the phenolic handle busted off from it being slung off the platter deck due to fixing one of their out-of-frame splices that they created.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-19-2007, 09:28 PM:
 
No Monte,

I wasn't just referring to the splicers.... everything.
 

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Posted by Michael Moore (Member # 3867) on 07-19-2007, 11:03 PM:
 
Monte

Louis once explained it like this to me once. "Most booths today are ran like McDonalds, the Kids treat the projectors like french fry fryers, hit a button walk away and don't return till something breaks, then walk away again!" From what I have heard Kenotons are fine machines but delicate, and need to treated with respect, and by a projectionist who know how to use them, not the kids the fill up most booths. Believe me I know what you are talk about Mark.
Like I said Steve has some of the best advice I have seen. And I can't nock the Kenoton projectors because I have never seen one or used one.

Mike
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-20-2007, 03:51 AM:
 
Oh, I know where you're coming from, Mike - trust me .. I've ran an Kinoton FP-23 and they are worth their name in gold.

(not to drift off-topic here where this should be almost placed in the "you suck bad film handler's" topic...but have to chime in to what was said previous..)

It's the new infectious syndrome in the work force called - "McJob" - I have to deal with those 'burger flippers' as well.

What makes it REAL BAD is when the mgrs themselves can't have any control over the theatre that they are assigned to since they're just 'puppet mgrs' - a form of operation that the owner wants of his business with a heavy dose of micromanaging mixed in the mire...and still expects a form of booth rules to be followed.

And do you think those "burger flippers" are going to listen knowing that the individual mgr of each theatre has no control over them, thus they can get away with murder without punishment outside of a simple write-up that can be repeatedly over and over again till that said mgr is blue in the face wanting to quit and be gone outta that theatre??

Hey Mark...I was just doing a funny with the splicer thing of Steve's whereas I know exactly were you're coming from as well. As Brad once said "pay peanuts and you get monkeys". AND I've actually seen such destruction happen in such a short time with equipment that endured the operations of time and been taken care of in that past.

thx all - Monte
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 07-20-2007, 06:55 AM:
 
Now see...this is a topic who has drifed off topic...it happens.

My complaint with what started this current discussion remains...a question was posted and rather than read the question, people just started flushing their minds of what they knew or what they thought they knew. Some of the information might have been relevent had it been a discussion of MUTs or even rewind tables...but completely worthless for reel arms.

My complaint Michael was not of your alternative ideas on how to do things...including the FrankenMUT™ in the other thread but that what you provided also did not provide any solution to the problem primarily because you didn't understand what was being asked (specific to a reel arm) including that the solution needed to be such that McProjectionists could change the spindle quick and that everything would remain in alignment. You didn't understand the question/problem yet offered what you knew rather than what would be helpful.

John...how would one use that sleeve to drive the reel (think take up)? However, it could be a two-punch solution...ues the sleeve that John just showed....drill and tap the disc for the Kelmar spindle to accept a removable dog pin. Obtain a sholder screw and then slide the sleeve on, screw the sholder screw in and whola...that would work. I suspect that it would eventually fail though as the stress on the sholder screw would damage the threads/material. It would have to be a small screw to work with the 1/4" drive hole (forget about the finger holes as the Kelmar disc is not that large). Then again change the disc to a larger one so you could use the finger holes...just like a MUT would do. Now that could work as an alternate to off-the-shelf (not what Frank asked for but an alternate solution).

As to Kinoton and McProjectionists....where did this delicate thing come about? They are NOT that delicate. Do they used Delrin (some say plastic) parts on the gate? Sure...they bounce better when dropped than metal gates too. Who hasn't had to contend with a Century trap or Simplex gate that has been dropped?

For everyone's information...nobody has a lock on bottom feeder projectionists...they are everywhere. My high end installations don't tend to use that type of projectionist however (screening rooms and such). I have PK60s running with run of the mill projectionists and so far (years later) ... not one complaint. They are about as zero maintenance as I've seen. I cant say the same for the other projectors we deal with for similar time frames. Certainly a good a respectful projectionist is key for any piece of equipment. Oddly enought...I'd give Cinemeccanica the nod in terms of dealing with McProjectionists well. I just don't like the machine and the end result picture/sound.

As for splicers...when did I get tagged as a CIR splicer advocate? (to the point that Gord is ). I'm not as down on CIR as many are and I've seen the booth-monkey use both and often the CIR will stand up every bit as well or as poorly as the Neumade. If your booth will only be filled with that level of projectionists...we've had decent luck with the Strong splicer actually...they are not completely bullet-proof but so far zero broken handles! What people can do to tape cutters STILL amazes me.

Reel-projectionists use a Meyer-Hancock splicer anyway (not Y2K compliant as they don't do so well with polyester).
 

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Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 07-20-2007, 07:38 AM:
 
Yeah, I didn't think it was a really great solution, but since Frank sort of implied it was for occasional use I thought it might be workable. I couldn't find a 'real' reel spindle for the picture, so I just put the adapter on a hand rewinder - just to get the idea. The Kelmars arms have the drive dog, so the reel wouldn't free spin.

There's an amazing variety of ways reel manufacturers have designed just the spindle / drive dog area over the years, so I know not everything will work with every other thing. Many reels will allow you to place a 5/16 reel with the key on a spindle, yet leave the drive dog in place. The classic Goldberg 2000ft cast reel has a 'inset' (where the finger holes are) so they won't hit the dog. A problem I do see though is the adapter will probably slide off when you remove the reel.

Anyway, I was thinking about making a 'product' out of this, and I thought I'd make something and send it to Frank to try. There's probably not much of a call for this type of thing anymore, but OTOH, it's easy to make.
 

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Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 07-20-2007, 07:51 AM:
 
I've never seen a Kelmar arm with a drive dog and 5/16" shaft. The 1/2" versions do have it, but not the 5/16" (except maybe newer ones than I have seen).

Related question: is it possible to have Goldberg reels (6000' sheet aluminum variety) converted from 1/2" to 5/16" shaft size? It seems that it would just be a matter of replacing the center piece with a different one. Is there someone who can do this at a reasonable price? I recently inherited a few reels with 1/2" shafts and would like to have them converted if possible. These are just for occasional use at film festivals and such and some pieces of equipment don't accommodate the larger shaft size.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-20-2007, 08:32 AM:
 

quote: Steve Guttag

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I have PK60s running with run of the mill projectionists

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Well, We don't even have run of the mill projectionists out here in MOST places. I'd wager that most of the kids attempting to run them can't even flip a burger... although after a few weeks of supposed projecting the 2nd grade math skills kick in and they DO figure out they can make more $$ attempting to do that at McDonalds. And yes... its mainly the fault of the chains involved... but there is a hiring problem too in many areas. Many locations in Wyoming can barely hire anyone to work at all because of the Oil Boom. Even Some "Fast Food" places only have drive ups open because of the lack of work force. Everyone over there works for Halliburton... I would be too were I a little younge. In Nevada they make 80 grand a year mining gold. I don't know how the casinos can even hire and keep anyone.

Mark
 

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Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 07-20-2007, 09:56 AM:
 
Now, this is just too rich.

Mark, I believe you meant to say the words "arbor press" and "van" in your last post, no?

--jhawk
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-20-2007, 10:06 AM:
 
There's not much I can do about Haliburton paying 100K a year or Barrik paying 80K and fast food/theaters in those areas still paying minimum wage. Its pretty hilarious when you think about it.... the same low IQ kids that were running film are doing those jobs too! In Rock Springs the Wendys was actually closed for a while because of no labor force. Its amazing that employing the same kids that Haliburton has been able to find any gas reserves over there at all.... let alone for a few smart geologists that saved them!! Or perhaps thets why there are thousands of drill holes... they're shootin craps tryin to find it. Granted there are a couple of chains that don't have that problem because they pay projectionists a bit above minimum...AMC and Megaplex. Some stick around for years just because the job fits their life style, but those are few and far between.

Have not needed to use the arbor press in quite a while.... although yes... there IS a number 1 one in the van. Took a sledge hammer to the last Ballantyne's around here so they could be recycled into alumnium ingots and processed into something useful .

Mark
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 07-20-2007, 11:03 AM:
 
John, As Scott said...the Kelmar arm does NOT have the dog pin for the 5/16" shafts BUT if you complete the equation and also make the disc with holes to mate with the various finger holes...you'd have a complete solution and would stand up to occasional use.

If one only wanted to have the ability to work with Goldberg house reels, then one could drill and press in a suitable drift pin or roll pin (with an Arbor Press, natch)...but I wouldn't want that restriction (just the one type of reel that is safe to use with the dog pin). I was mistaken earlier in that the drive pin is to be 1/4", not the hole, which is to be .265" on the least dimension. A suitable 1/4-28 shoulder screw should do the job.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-20-2007, 01:29 PM:
 

quote: Steve Guttag

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As for splicers...when did I get tagged as a CIR splicer advocate?

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( Was picking on you there a little bit - making up a story on your UPTOWN operation on how well it was ran and when the Crapaplex monkeys came in and destroyed what you created)

..Monte
 

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Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 07-20-2007, 07:24 PM:
 
Yikes, what have I wrought?!

OK, let me back up -- the whole reason for the original question was because we got some 6000ft reels donated to us. 3 of them have standard keyed 5/16ths holes and 2 have the 1/2in holds. I wanted to be able to use the 1/2in if I could, and since we do use 2000 footers most of the time, plus now the other 6000ft-1/2in reels, it would be advantagous to be able to switch back and forth as necessary.

BUT, bottom line is, we are only talking about two reels with 1/2" holes. Soooo, no sense going nuts just for two reels (anyone want to swap 2 floating hub 6000ft-1/2in reels for ones with 5/16ths holes?).

From what I can see, Steve's Kelmar 35/70 arms solution would solve the problem satisfactorily but they would cost big $$$, which pretty much kills the thrill of getting free 6000ft reels, no?!

The adaptor in the picture you posted John seems like it would almost get me there, but then that gave me another idea. Maybe my original approach was backwards -- why try to adapt the spindle on the arm when it would be just as easy (maybe) to convert the two reels? I am thinking of the Goldberg 2000ft reels which have a bore hole larger than the 5/16ths key hole; they use a plug which brings it down to the needed 5/16th key. key. I don't know exactly what holds these inserts in place other they are force fitted -- on occasion some have loosened up on me and I've just spread the key notch apart abit and then rammed it back in the whole (that's what she said).

Seems like if I could fix these two reels with a simple plug like that, it would put this whole thing to rest.

And thanks for the offer of that test part, John. Very kind of you.
 

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Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 07-20-2007, 09:45 PM:
 
So, Frank, your question is now equivalent to Scott's. I left off with a joke, since I'd hoped someone else was a bit more certain of the answer.

Assuming the 6k reels are built like the 2k reels, all you need is an arbor press (or a hammer if you're going to do it Wrong) and the right size inserts. Though it's probably a good idea to use some LocTite 660 (use primer if you're pressing into Aluminum). I don't know if the inserts are available from Goldberg, though. "Probably."

Remember, though, eventually your 6k reels will probably shear off your 5/16" key.

Scott, I'd be happy to do yours if you bring me the parts.

--jhawk
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-20-2007, 10:41 PM:
 
EDIT: Anyway that a dog pin could be adapted to the flange of a hub spindle to accept those 5/16", 6k reels and not having to be concerned with stripping off the shaft key?

just my three cents worth ... - Monte

[ 07-21-2007, 03:23 AM: Message edited by: Monte L Fullmer ]
 

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Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-21-2007, 10:34 AM:
 
Certainly an insert could be installed into any reel. Also Goldberg will rebuild any reel to another spec.

At the risk of starting another diatribe.....the Christie makeup table spindle could be copied onto the Kelmar reel arm platform. This would allow reversing the shaft like the Christie. I have not seen a reel that could not be driven on an AW-3-make up spindle. Louis
 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 07-21-2007, 01:51 PM:
 
Adapting the Christie system to a reel arm would be very extensive, believe it or not...you still have to retain the clutch and belt drive and you would need the Christie dog plate.

Believe it or not, the John Walsh sleeve with a drilled/tapped disc to accept a 1/4" sholder screw would work rather cheaply.

As for the reels...on the 2000' cast reels...the slug is really only held in by friction. They crimp the slug after it is rolled and then press it in. The crimp will bite into the aluminum to prevent it from spinning. If they don't do the crimp right, it will either be loose or it could shift the slug such that it offcenters the reel. (if you only knew the conversations I've had with Goldberg on this...not to mention the keyway dimensions....but I digres.

As to the 6K reel cores...they are NOT pressed in...do NOT try to force them out. However, to change them is not too big a deal...you will want a "Save-A-Reel" kit. They are offered by Goldberg (and Wolk used to have them but I don't know about it any longer). You will need to drill out the rivots that hold the reel together (typically just four of them on a floating reel). The kit will come with a new core, screw-type spacers to replace the rivot variety, a new hub band...and I forget what else. Everything is also available piece meal.

Steve
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-21-2007, 04:14 PM:
 

quote: Steve Guttag

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(if you only knew the conversations I've had with Goldberg on this

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