Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Christie motor brushes

This is topic Christie motor brushes in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Charles Caron (Member # 3247) on 03-23-2008, 08:45 PM:

Has anyone found a reliable, reasonably priced aftermarket source for Christie mut/platter motor brushes? I couldn't find much searching old threads.
Thanks, C.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-23-2008, 09:28 PM:

There are alot of brushes available that LOOK like the ones used in the Christie Motors but you have to be absolutely sure you get the correct hardness of brush or you'll tear up the commutator in no time flat, the motor SHOULD be disassembled anyway to blow out the carbon dust build up... that too can blow motor cards and ruin the plastic end cap of the motor. Bearings can be checked and replaced at the same time amnd the comutator cut and cleaned up to spec as well if needed. Christie is really the best place to get the brushes since that is a special OEM motor.... it's not an off the shelf unit!! Also there IS a 1/4 HP off the shelf Bodine motor that "LOOKS IDENTICAL" to the actual Christie motor... it even mounts to the motor mount correctly... only problem is that motor is way to powerful and has wayyyyy tooooo much current draw for that tiny little motor driver card. Ka poof if you have non-fused cards or constant fuse blowing on the fused version and those fuses are expensive too!

We stock all the internal and external motor parts for the Christie PLatter Motor including the OEM Armature Assembly!

Mark

Posted by Andres Briano (Member # 4621) on 03-27-2008, 01:11 PM:

What is the general consensus as to when to check and/or change the brushes? Is there a need for doing it periodically (the checking that is)?

By the way, what does OEM stand for?

Andrés

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 03-27-2008, 01:17 PM:

OEM=Original Equipment Manufacturer - if you want your equipment or any device ( automotive, industrial..et.al..) to run the best, stick with OEM parts.

Posted by Andres Briano (Member # 4621) on 03-27-2008, 08:28 PM:

Thanks, Monte [thumbsup]

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 03-27-2008, 09:05 PM:

I check brushes yearly.

Posted by Andres Briano (Member # 4621) on 04-13-2008, 07:15 PM:

Hey Tim,
To check them, I assume you just unscrew the lateral covers and remove the brushes for inspection. Am I right?

Andrés

Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 04-13-2008, 10:05 PM:

quote: Monte L Fullmer
if you want your equipment or any device ( automotive, industrial..et.al..) to run the best, stick with OEM parts.

Monte - since I work at a Carquest Auto Parts store during the day, I have to call BS on this one. As long as replacement parts are of the same or better quality, and the right specs, you have no problem. It's when people buy cheap knockoff (as in Wal Mart) parts that trouble arises.

Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 04-13-2008, 10:09 PM:

I try to take apart the motors yearly to inspect the brushes and clean out the carbon dust. I've never seen a purpose for the plastic covers on the sides of the motor housing; I just remove the bottom of the motor casing. Putting the motor back together is slightly harder than it looks, though, because the two long screws that hold it together aren't quite as long as they should be.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-13-2008, 10:22 PM:

Mike,

I somewhat disagree with that! Fuel pumps are something that I have had much better luck with the OEM parts. After market pumps just don't last like the OEM's do. Brake rotors too! Many auto parts store brake rotors now come from China and are quite inferior to the Mexican made rotors all of us are used to.

Mark

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 04-14-2008, 05:21 AM:

(not to drift off-topic with this interesting subject, but I have to add to this...)

Mark mentions OEM pumps, and I have to head over to timing belts since I'm doing belts on a DOHC turbo motor:

Practically all motor rebuilders recommend OEM timing belts over aftermarket since the OEM parts have proven themselves with the reliability given .. and can aftermarket prove themselves on the same level-like what reliability history do these manufacturers have?

Thus, I'm putting in OEM belts on this motor due to recommendation's sake.

quote: Scott Norwood
I've never seen a purpose for the plastic covers on the sides of the motor housing; I just remove the bottom of the motor casing

(lol..) Doing brushes on a Christie DC motor (even going through that little side door on the frame, unlocking the tension spring, unbolting the brush braided wire and sliding out the brush) is nothing compared in doing brushes on those vacuum platter motors that STRONG uses...!

(I might have to do another 'show and tell' on how to change out those STRONG brushes one of these days when I have to do a total brush changeout at one of the theatres I attend to...)

-Monte

Posted by Andres Briano (Member # 4621) on 04-14-2008, 10:22 AM:

quote: Scott Norwood
I just remove the bottom of the motor casing.

My point exactly! That was the way I was doing this. And found it somewhat hard to assemble the darned thing back again, that was why I was double checking with Tim on this.

[thumbsup]

Andrés