Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: IREM N3-X75DM with Super Lumex?

This is topic IREM N3-X75DM with Super Lumex? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009249

Posted by Peter Das (Member # 4690) on 04-23-2008, 11:40 AM:

Can anybody tell me how to set-up IREM N3-X75DM with Super Lumex lamp house. Do we have to do any changes? Can you light up a 2500W bulb with this system? Thank you all in advance.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-23-2008, 11:50 AM:

Most of the IREMs use 220v contactors and the super lumex operates on 110v
I usually put a small 11vac relay on the output of the superlumex control lines 5/6 to switch the irem contactor
also 110vac input to the lamphouse is on 2 and 4

Also the autostrike board needs to be changed for the lower noload voltage of the IREM

Posted by Peter Das (Member # 4690) on 04-23-2008, 01:37 PM:

Hi Gordon

Thank you very much for your kind information.

But Please tell me Where to buy this relay and what model number is this. So the relay goes inside the lamp house? I am not technically sound. so I appriceate if you give me drawing of this how to do. and the same time how to do autostrike board?

Can you put a 2500W bulb in this model?

Thanks a lot if you can send me the drawing to cineprojection@yahoo.ca.

Thanks again

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 04-23-2008, 03:37 PM:

Gordon's plan works well. This is my favorite combination. Very trouble free.

Installation: Consult your booth tech. Louis

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 04-23-2008, 04:25 PM:

Just ignore Gordon's typo...he meant a 110V AC relay (not 11VAC).

The relay can be mounted most anywhere...in the lamphouse or rectifier....In or near the rectifier has proven most convienent as the Super Lume-X come with a harness that will be going to the rectifier and has all of the terminals you need on it.

As Louis said, leave the wiring to a qualified professional.

Steve

Posted by Peter Das (Member # 4690) on 04-23-2008, 04:36 PM:

Hi Gordon, Steve and Loui

The system is installing in INDIA. those technicians have never work on system like this. They get complete system from a manufacture and installing the. So this is going to be very complicating for them.

I really appriciate if some one give a rough drawing how to do this conversion.

and the other thing Can this system light up a 2500W bulb?

Also how to do "the autostrike board needs to be changed for the lower noload voltage of the IREM "

Thank you all. every one here very helpful everytime.

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 04-23-2008, 07:45 PM:

The lamphouse can easily be made to accept an XBO-2500w/hs bulb. However the rectifier is limited: 2000 watts in 60 Hz countries and 1600 watt in 50 hz countries. Louis

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 04-24-2008, 10:25 AM:

What voltage and frequency is India?
Anyway, the lamphouse needs 120VAC - and 60Hz if you want the lamp hour reading to be accurate - applied on terminals #2 and #4. When switched to LAMP ON (and the internal blower activating the airflow switch) you get 120VAC across terminals #5 and #6. If India is 240VAC (and like most of the old British Empire it probably is) you will need a step down transformer, it isn't feasible to convert a 120VAC lamphouse to 240VAC operation (although I think you can buy a new one made for 240).
The Irem rectifier needs its own separate AC supply of course, whatever voltage is on the spec plate. To tell it to make lamp power you connect terminal A to terminal B.
So you just get a relay with a 120V coil and connect the coil to lamphouse terminals 5 and 6 and a NO contact to Irem A and B. There isn't much room in the lamphouse for this. There isn't much room in the rectifier connection box either. I usually screw a 6x6 electrical box to the rectifier below the terminal box and install an octal relay socket with octal base relay inside there. Electrosonic has what you need.
The autostart board is at the very inside back of the lamphouse, under the cathode adjuster behind a metal shield held on with two screws. There are several versions of the board for different rectifier open circuit (ie lamp not yet struck) voltages: the only difference being a zener diode is changed. The Irem has a pretty low open circuit voltage and with the standard card for Strong high reactance rectifiers the autostrike is not reliable - sometimes it works and sometimes not. I don't want to tell you it absolutely won't work, it might be OK. Changing the zener is pretty easy, again Electrosonic has these: the 1N5361 is the one I use that autostrikes around 60VDC open circuit.
Beware though... the autostrike circuit board is held with plastic stand-offs that invariably shatter into dust when you remove the board to work on it (good old Strong and their aversion to UV-proof plastic parts) so you will need 3 new standoffs or some way to fake them. You will not find these fricking standoffs anywhere except from Strong (if you do let me know) as every one I can get has a 6-32 threaded post and somehow Strong gets a 8-32 size... anyway they are Strong part #39155.
You could probably get 2500W out of the rectifier on 60Hz but not on 50Hz (ie India I think). Irem under-specifies the power capability but not that much.

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 04-24-2008, 11:07 AM:

Dave; that rectifier runs HOT in 50 hz countries. Too hot for 2000 watt. Louis

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-24-2008, 11:35 AM:

If you are going to run aything near a 2kw lamp with that particuluar IREM I reccomend replacing all the diodes with the later style Semikron diodes. Part number SKN 70/16 available from Allied or Newark. They will be able to take the punishment you are about to give them. The older diodes will be failure prone in this older rectifier. An internal fan blowing air over the flat alumnium heatsink wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Mark

Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 04-24-2008, 01:05 PM:

We have done installations in 50HZ countries with the N-3 / 75 230VAC 50HZ model and able to maintain 2 - 2500 watts on the units.....we also installed 230VAC muffin fans on each core stack and on the diode banks since some of these locations barely had any air conditioning in the projection room. No load would need to be set below 85 volts...more so at 60 for auto-strike.

Posted by Peter Das (Member # 4690) on 04-24-2008, 03:36 PM:

Dave

We have 440VAC 3Phase 50Hz. So we should put a Stepdown transformer to get 220VAC 3Phase. or unless inside transformer has taps for 440VAC that we can change the settings.

How this Super Lumex will go on a 38ft wide screen with 65ft throwing distance? bright enough?

[ 04-24-2008, 05:42 PM: Message edited by: Peter Das ]

Posted by Robert Minichino (Member # 3495) on 04-24-2008, 04:39 PM:

quote: Dave Macaulay
You will not find these fricking standoffs anywhere except from Strong (if you do let me know) as every one I can get has a 6-32 threaded post and somehow Strong gets a 8-32 size... anyway they are Strong part #39155.

McMaster-Carr sells Nylon 8-32 threaded standoffs (page 3188-3189).

Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 04-24-2008, 06:53 PM:

quote: Peter Das
with 65ft throwing distance?

Just an F. Y. I. Throw distance does not factor into lamp size/power only the size of the screen does.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-24-2008, 07:49 PM:

McMaster Carr sells soooo much stuff... I don't know how they do it. They even list Nuclear Reactors on page 12,782!

Mark

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 04-25-2008, 10:58 PM:

Well, threaded standoffs I can get most anywhere. I actually like the Strong snap-in type that don't require me to fish a screw into that particular dark and crowded area. So no prize for you, Robert [Smile]

What they are, more or less, is a 3/8" standoff with a 8-32 male thread on one end and a PCB snap-in post mounting on the other, with the standoff hex shaped to allow screwing it on using a nutdriver. I don't have one in front of me and the 3/8" is a guess... it might be 1/2". I think Newark or Allied has them with 6-32, haven't found them with 8-32. So Strong gets their $1.00 each I guess.
Yes, the rectifier diode "heatsink" should have forced air cooling if you want to get 2kW or above. But the actual transformer will make more power than Irem specs at 50Hz and a lot more than spec at 60Hz.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-25-2008, 11:20 PM:

Dave...

Anything thats made of white nylon is an absolute piece of crap! It will deterioate and turn to a crisp in less than 5 years time... As evedenced by the use of the standoffs in the Strong Lamphouses... Look for stuff made from black nylon... it is almost always UV and IR resistant and they last just about indefinately. No white ties or standoffs in any of my rebuilds/installs...

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 04-26-2008, 07:48 AM:

That's why when we rework Super Lumex lamphouses, we use all black cable ties, etc. (We also strip them down and powder coat them, too.) Louis

Posted by Peter Das (Member # 4690) on 04-26-2008, 12:20 PM:

Thanks all Guru's here I got the knowledge what I need.

But let me know your opinion before I install this

How this Super Lumex will go on a 40ft wide screen with 65ft throwing distance? bright enough?

Brand new PERLUX Screen 1.4 gain

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 04-26-2008, 05:48 PM:

New stock Strong standoffs are no longer nylon, they are some grey plasticky stuff that's hopefully more UV resistant.
Rebuilds get UV resistant wire and ties/tabs of course.