Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Movieola Type Splicer Instructions Needed

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Posted by Jim Cassedy (Member # 4115) on 06-01-2008, 12:25 PM:

I recently acquired this "ATOMIC FILM SPLICER"
(still in originial box!)
It's similar to what I've always called a "MOVIOLA" type splicer since a similar model was manufactured by them and was widely used for work-print editing. I used one myself a couple of times many years ago.

The problem is- - I CAN'T RECALL HOW TO WORK THE DARN THNING!
I'd like to use this, but can't remember how.
Does anyone have instructions they can e-mail me?
Thanks!

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 06-01-2008, 12:40 PM:

It is for pre-perforated tape only.

IT is somewhat self explanitory if you play with it just a bit.

The big lever in the middle is the film cutter. The device that swings down at an angle helps to apply the tape by pushing it down squarely on the film. it also has a cutter on it for the tape. It does take some technique to get a nice clean cut that has no ridges that will peel back up. It is favored by editors as there are no chads possible and a good editor is pretty darn fast with the thing and the splices are pretty decent.

Steve

Posted by Martin McCaffery (Member # 37) on 06-01-2008, 01:59 PM:

Just to state the obvious for those who have never seen one of these and are used to booth splicers, you hold the roll of tape in your left hand and apply it to the film. There is no tape dispenser on this splicer.

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 06-01-2008, 02:33 PM:

I don't know the company histories, but that is - or originally was - a Rivas splicer made by Carlos Rivas company.

Posted by Jack Theakston (Member # 4484) on 06-01-2008, 04:37 PM:

And they're much more reliable than the standard guillotine splicers, particularly for older, shrunken film.

You're supposed to put eight-perfs worth of tape on each side, but that's a waste if the splice is temporary. Four will suffice. Two will too if you want to be really reckless.

Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 06-01-2008, 06:35 PM:

It's also really easy to cut your hand on the blade.

--jhawk

Posted by Jack Theakston (Member # 4484) on 06-03-2008, 07:15 PM:

What? Even with the dullest blade, the cut is still shearing action between the brass base that it pushes through. The drop blade doesn't have to be sharp at all.

Posted by Kenneth Wuepper (Member # 1174) on 06-03-2008, 07:27 PM:

The advantage of this machine is that the splicing tape edges will be on the frame lines and not visible on screen or in the printer.

Negatives are usually taped only on the base side to keep contact in the printer for sharp images. Projection requires both sides to be taped for safe running through the machine.

KEN

Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 06-03-2008, 07:38 PM:

There are different versions of this that are made to cover different numbers of perfs with tape. I've seen the 2-perf version and the 8-perf version. The difference is that the top piece that holds the tape in place while the user tears it is a different size.

Posted by David Zylstra (Member # 4230) on 06-03-2008, 07:49 PM:

We used to use a similar splicer made by Hollywood Film Company . . . . . . our norm was to do 8 perfs on one side and 4 on the other . . . . . . . prior to polyester film we would tape one side to repair torn sprocket holes

quote: Jack Theakston
Two will too if you want to be really reckless

I tried this once on a release print once - when I broke the film down at the end of a 4 week run I found that the splices were slowly pulling apart, not by much but each splice started with a slight overlap and ended up with a slight gap.

Posted by Sam D. Chavez (Member # 1841) on 06-03-2008, 08:12 PM:

I love these splicers but the tape price is a killer. Way more expensive.

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 06-03-2008, 08:53 PM:

quote: Kenneth Wuepper
Negatives are usually taped only on the base side

You're talking about for daily rolls, right? Because every lab I've ever dealt with will absolutely not accept negatives with tape on them.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 06-04-2008, 12:05 AM:

Those splicers were very common on productions back in the mid 80's to the late 90's up to when on line editing took over on most productions. The pre-perf tape is only about 20 bucks a roll and the rolls are fairly long so they last a while in a booth. Its amazing to watch an experienced editor conform film using one of those splicers. One second per splice per side! And those splices are done absolutely perfectly... usually done just by feel...

Mark

Posted by Jack Theakston (Member # 4484) on 06-04-2008, 10:52 AM:

quote: David Zylstra
I tried this once on a release print once - when I broke the film down at the end of a 4 week run I found that the splices were slowly pulling apart, not by much but each splice started with a slight overlap and ended up with a slight gap.

I never really had this problem, but then again, I usually don't build up anything with two-perfs that's going to be over 3000' feet or so for that very reason. Too much tension WILL tear that splice to shreds. Generally, I do four perfs worth on each side. That does the trick, and you're not wasting tape.

On another related topic, the best cement splices, for what it's worth (not much anymore with polyester) are made by Maier-Hancock or the Bell and Howell Pedal splicers.

Posted by Jim Cassedy (Member # 4115) on 06-04-2008, 05:42 PM:

Thanks, everyone, for all the info.

Another question I had was answered in a couple of the replies.
(It DOES require pre-perforated splicing tape)

Fortunately, I found and bought several "expired" rolls dirt cheap in a professional camera store here in San Francisco.

The stuff is still apparantly good, as I tried using it to splice together a couple of test loops and let them run through one of my projectors at home for over 30min each and they appear just as strong as when I made them.

I worked in film production back for awhile in the 1980's and I can 2nd the comments made by some here that an experienced editor could make splices lightning fast on one of these things.

As I recall, I saw these mainly used on dailies and for editing work prints, and they taped only one side. At the place I was at those edited work prints were rarely projected. They were usually only run on flat-bed type movieolas, which don't put a wholelotta stress on the film & splices.

Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 08-14-2011, 12:38 PM:

It has been 1165 days since the last post.

Posted by Howard Zinman (Member # 6440) on 08-14-2011, 12:38 PM:

Is there a special "8-perf" version of this splicer? Is it possible to make an 8 perf splice with the standard 35mm model?

Thanks!

Howard

BTW, I hate that system notices thing. It dupes me into thinking someone's responded to my queries! Then, I click on the thread & "Bang!" that lame message.

Posted by Richard P. May (Member # 3598) on 08-15-2011, 09:41 AM:

When working on preservation at WB, I had the use of a beautifully equipped booth (outside of Studio jurisdiction), and had one of these along with an ultrasonic splicer inherited from MGM, thru Turner.
I always had an awful time lining up the perfs with the film, and getting an unwrinkled splice.
As mentioned in an earlier posting, however, watching a professional editor with lots of experience use it was fascinating. Bing-bang, done!

Posted by Howard Zinman (Member # 6440) on 08-18-2011, 05:43 PM:

I got a deal on movieola type splicer on ebay. We'll see. I think it looks tough to get a good splice on one of these. Lining up the perfs looks like a pain in the butt.

Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 08-18-2011, 07:59 PM:

The key to getting a clean splice was to hold the tape just above the film and let the razor assembly apply the tape to the film. Squeezing the tape gently along the sides allows you to hold the tape parallel to the film, without it "drooping."

The 2-perf version was called the "inviso" splicer, but it used a stronger, stickier tape.

I've never heard of negative cutters using tape but I guess anything's possible. Picture editors *would* only splice on the base side. Once the decisions had been more or less nailed down, someone would have to apply the tape to the base side for trouble-free projection.

Posted by Jack Theakston (Member # 4484) on 08-31-2011, 03:16 AM:

Incidentally, does anyone know who has the most inexpensive pre-perf? 3M used to make REALLY good tape, but apparently they either don't make it anymore or changed the formula, because the quality of the adhesive on the tape I've purchased recently is very poor.

Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 08-31-2011, 11:21 PM:

Try Christy's Editorial -- they're in Southern California -- I know -- they're on the other side of the country -- but I have no experience with New York (other than being a tourist there) -- best I can do.

Posted by Howard Zinman (Member # 6440) on 09-01-2011, 03:05 PM:

Numbers film supply in Toronto Canada has the 3m tape. I've bought from them & like their service.

Howard

Posted by Ian Freer (Member # 1940) on 09-02-2011, 03:45 AM:

Howard: CIR make an 8-perf splicer for regular non-perforated tape.
Follow this link...
CIR Splicers
...Half way down you'll find the M.3-35mm Pos/2Frames Special (INC44/b)