This is topic Correct oil to use in a Simplex 35 in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Brad Allen (Member # 470) on 10-05-2008, 06:15 PM:
 
I did a search and maybe I missed it, but I didn't find the answer.
What is typically the correct/best oil to use in a Simplex 35....besides "Simplex Oil".
Anything that can be purchased locally?
Thanks.
 

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Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 10-05-2008, 06:23 PM:
 
What? don't like varnish?

#10 non detergent will be acceptable. (#20 if your pump can handle it) Louis
 

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Posted by Brad Allen (Member # 470) on 10-05-2008, 07:10 PM:
 
Varnish I don't like.
Cleaned it out once in the past.
Thank you Louis.
 

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Posted by Bob Koch (Member # 1062) on 10-05-2008, 07:18 PM:
 
Texaco Calpella A is avery good projector lubricant for Simplex
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-06-2008, 05:05 AM:
 
Isn't hydraulic oil about the same weight as #10 non detergent?
 

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Posted by Troy Hilsman Powell (Member # 4326) on 10-09-2008, 05:30 AM:
 
I have found that heavy mineral oil works very well in which you can find at CVS,Walgreens,etc plus I like to sneak in a little lucas oil additive 10% which you can find at auto zone,etc.
 

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Posted by Bill Enos (Member # 440) on 10-09-2008, 09:51 AM:
 
ATF is an extreme pressure, high temp gear oil that will easily exceed the requirements of any projector that requires a #10 viscosity oil. Synthetic ATF would be even better.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-09-2008, 01:29 PM:
 
..and if you want to give your machine a good "flush-out" during operation, drain the case and add in the syn ATF and let it run a couple of months. Amazing how things get clean in the case.
 

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Posted by Kenneth Wuepper (Member # 1174) on 10-09-2008, 02:33 PM:
 
So what does the Alcohol Tobacco Firearms folk have to do with projector lubrication?

KEN
 

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Posted by Robert Minichino (Member # 3495) on 10-09-2008, 03:16 PM:
 
Straight mineral oil plus "Lucas Oil Stabilizer" is definitely an inferior combination for any machine lubrication. A straight mineral oil has no anti-wear, anti-corrosion, anti-foam, or high-pressure additives, and "Lucas Oil Stabilizer" is just a thick weight petroleum oil, again, no additives.

If SAE 10 non-detergent motor oil is appropriate, that, ATF or an equivalent weight gear oil (ISO 32 or SAE 75W) would be infinitely preferable.
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 10-10-2008, 09:13 AM:
 
Instead of the Lucas Pukas stuff consider Marvel Mystery Oil as the additive. I know many a cinematographer oiling their pin reg movements with a 50/50 mix of this... they've been doing it for years.
 

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Posted by Robert Minichino (Member # 3495) on 10-10-2008, 09:34 AM:
 
MMO is dichlorobenzene, mineral spirits and naphtha. It'll help clean things out, but it won't do much for lubrication. Stick to a real gear or spindle oil (depending on the viscosity you need) straight, no extra additives. It'll be miles better than almost any homebrewed voodoo potion, and probably less expensive.
 

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Posted by Brad Allen (Member # 470) on 10-10-2008, 10:13 PM:
 
Well I have found that SAE 10 Non-Detergent is impossible to find in this area.
 

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Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 10-11-2008, 12:56 AM:
 

quote: Monte L Fullmer

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..and if you want to give your machine a good "flush-out" during operation, drain the case and add in the syn ATF and let it run a couple of months. Amazing how things get clean in the case.

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Any particular type? Drexron I/II/III, F, Mercon ect...
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-11-2008, 02:06 AM:
 
Last run I did was with Type "F" - a cheap dollar store brand knowing that I wasn't going to fool with any clutches....

But, I'm sure that you can do with any type with this trick.

My next try is with AMSOIL Universal Tranny Fluid.

-Monte
 

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Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 10-11-2008, 07:12 AM:
 
We stock at least 110 gallons at all times. Louis (Hadden)
 

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Posted by Robert Minichino (Member # 3495) on 10-11-2008, 09:48 AM:
 
If you decide to use an ATF for the long term, make sure you choose one with an ASTM D-130 copper strip corrosion class of 1 (1a or 1b). Any higher and the lube will corrode yellow metal bushings. Also a good reason to avoid API GL-5 gear oils as the amount of sulfur-bearing anti-wear additives will also attack yellow metal (API GL-4 is generally safe).
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 10-11-2008, 11:14 AM:
 
You guys can experiment all you want... your machines only have to run say another 5 years at best... I personally try to avoid using or selling any sulphur based anything... Always synthetic if at all possible. The word sulphur, crude oil, and varnish don't exist in this world. The words long life, no wear, still looks new, runs smoother all come into being. Also, haven't used anything but synthetic in my cars for many years.

Mark
 

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Posted by Robert Minichino (Member # 3495) on 10-11-2008, 11:27 AM:
 
You mean like molybdenum disulfide, Mark? Other more complex sulfur-based EP additives with active sulfur can also corrode copper and yellow metals, but in moderate amounts they can be balanced with anti-corrosion additives. Lubricants with heavy EP additives are often made from extreme hydrocracked or synthetic base stock that contains little to no sulfur itself. So active sulfur content has little to do with quality when it comes to lubrication, you just need to make sure you have the right lube for your application.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-11-2008, 10:59 PM:
 

quote: Robert Minichino

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Also a good reason to avoid API GL-5 gear oils as the amount of sulfur-bearing anti-wear additives will also attack yellow metal (API GL-4 is generally safe).

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(..a bit off-topic here: .. and I remember a syn oils salesman telling me that GL-5 is good stuff in a FWD transaxle setup..and I just about flipped! 'Wanna see the syncros disappear in a couple of years in my tranny?')
 

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Posted by Louis Belloisy (Member # 3836) on 10-12-2008, 03:24 PM:
 
compressor oil is a good substitute for simplex oil.

louis
 

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Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 10-12-2008, 03:46 PM:
 
Good grief people, the quart can of GENUINE Simplex oil isn't THAT expensive!!! And a quart can has enough oil for anywhere from 5-10 machines. Why risk blowing an intermittant in the middle of a show (and we all know that it'll only happen with a full house on Friday night) trying to save a few bucks?

Sheesh.

On the other hand, as long as you're in the L.A. area, go ahead and play around with the oil, I'll make money selling you a rebuilt intermittant and the proper oil.

There are plenty of other areas to save money in a cinema operation, experimenting with the most important piece of equipment in your business is NOT one of those areas.

To put it another way, would you be willing to experiment with other concoctions to clean your film because FilmGuard is "too expensive"?
 

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Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 10-13-2008, 08:13 AM:
 
Louis... Exactly! As long as it's the synthetic type.

Mark
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-15-2008, 07:40 PM:
 
Now, why would any company put varnish in oil for lubrication?

What is the purpose of varnish in Simplex oil?
 

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Posted by Robert Minichino (Member # 3495) on 10-15-2008, 10:21 PM:
 
Varnish comes from oxidized oil, usually from when oil is subjected to heat. Varnish is found in cheap lubricating oil that isn't sufficiently refined and processed.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-16-2008, 01:09 AM:
 

quote: Robert Minichino

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Varnish comes from oxidized oil, usually from when oil is subjected to heat

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quote: Robert Minichino

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Varnish is found in cheap lubricating oil that isn't sufficiently refined and processed.

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