Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Horizontal Main Drive Seal Kit

This is topic Horizontal Main Drive Seal Kit in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 12-21-2008, 06:59 PM:

Does anyone have the part# for the horizontal main drive seal kit for a Simplex PR1060? This would be for the pulley side.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-21-2008, 07:26 PM:

You can look here.

Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 12-21-2008, 08:44 PM:

Hey Monte,

I'm looking for the kit# instead of having to order all those pieces individually. I had one of these kits last year that was left behind by Regal, and I thought I had saved the part# from the packaging somewhere, but can't find it.

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 12-21-2008, 08:48 PM:

A better idea is to reduce the oil level to the point indicated in the instructions, where it will not leak out. If it doesn't oil correctly, repair the pump. Oil level is critical when the projector is level or about level.

The kit "slows" the leak, but does not stop it. Louis

Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 12-21-2008, 09:41 PM:

Hey Louis,

I think I'm already running it lower than the instructions indicate by leaving an air bubble at the top of the sight glass since the projector is at a slight down angle. It had been running leak free up until just a couple of days ago.

Just on a side note:

I have 2 1060's and they used to leak really bad if we put enough oil in to bring it more than half the height of the sight glass (yet enough to sling around in the case). We practically did an oil change just by refilling every 2-3 weeks. I finally dismounted the projector head and found that bolt holes that hold the mount bar (bracket) were either tapped too deep or the casting was too porous around them. They were full of oil either way. I degreased them really good and pumped them full of blue RTV silicone and slowly threaded the bolts back in as I reinstalled the bar. This allowed the RTV to ooze out without "blowing out" the casting. Let them dry over night and re-assembled everything and refilled to the current level mentioned above and have not had any problems since (almost a year now except for the one with a bad horizontal seal.)

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-21-2008, 09:52 PM:

You could bend the filter tubing down and forward a bit to get the end of the tube into the sump better if you got that much of a downward angle and will allow the pump to still function normally.

Sorry on that - thought the manual would have these numbers below:

Round tooth kit - 52-60251
Sq tooth kit - 52-60246

try this one out. - thx Monte

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 12-22-2008, 09:56 AM:

quote: Louis Bornwasser
A better idea is to reduce the oil level to the point indicated in the instructions, where it will not leak out.

It still does and it still will through the many other leak points in the X-L... including right through the bottom of the casting.

Mark

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 12-22-2008, 10:52 AM:

You are definately overfull: the manual states:
0 degree 7/16 inch
5 degree is 3/4 inch
10 degree is 1 3/16 inch
15 degree is 1 9/16 inch
20-30 degree is 2 inch

Even at that, there is some "air" at the top.

The issue is that there are holes at the bottom of the main drive shaft bearing journal to return excess oil to the sump. If you have the oil level above these holes, you will have oil flow "out." The main drive gear or pulley will sling it EVERYWHERE.

This is a very common error caused by the "over oiling is better" crowd. Louis

Posted by Tim Reed (Member # 137) on 12-22-2008, 04:32 PM:

Louis, he has 1060s, which have the small sight disc in the film compartment. I think those measurements refer to the front-mounted sight tube.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 12-22-2008, 05:57 PM:

Tim is correct!

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 12-22-2008, 09:45 PM:

Oops! WE remanufacture the old, good ones and avoid the new ones. Louis

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 12-23-2008, 02:26 AM:

..which I do miss those front sight tubes...easier to drain when doing oil changes.

Just can't figure out (or, should we..) they put that drain spigot on the front where the side mount was a bit better.

One nice thing they finally woke up on was adding the oil spout on TOP of the rear door instead of on the side...which was right below the Kelmar dowser ass'y.

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 12-23-2008, 10:19 AM:

I still squirt it i n just beside the shutter adjustment know. . . . . old school! Louis

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 12-23-2008, 10:41 AM:

quote: Louis Bornwasser
WE remanufacture the old, good ones and avoid the new ones.

Louis...

Oh come on... those old castings are absolute crap... They are not even heat treated and are extremely porus! To spend $$ to properly seal one isn't worth the effort since they are also very flimsy. Can't tell you how many I've seen that are warped. A few though may have obviously been heat treated by some large arc lamp that had been running behind it. Strong has done wonders with the new castings and the Standard PR-1015 X-L they nmake is actually very decent and they leak far less then those old junkers do. Indeed, one of the very few things that Strong did do right!

Mark