Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: MTM R106 Dubber hook up

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Posted by Daniel Weber (Member # 2866) on 04-27-2009, 08:35 PM:

Hi,

I have an MTM R106/DCS with the MS 5500 sync in my garage I would like to use with my projector but I have no info on the thing. I now have a 100 pulse per rev quadrature type encoder on my projector that works with a "Universal Slave Driver" sync box to make time code and word clock for use with the computer audio system.

Questions are,
what voltage? I would think 120v but it has a twist lock connector that could be wired for 220v.
What type encoder does it require and how many pulses per frame?

Thanks for any help, I'm sure not finding much info about this machine on the net.

Daniel

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 04-28-2009, 01:22 AM:

Hi Daniel:

First off, contact Scottsound Film Equipment in Burbank, CA. 818-558-6223 and ask for Tom. He is quite knowledgeable on MTM and other dubbers.

As for the input voltage, beware. You will need to look at the internal power supply unit to determine the proper voltage. Don't try to guess because if you're wrong you will let out the magic smoke. Most of those dubbers actually have an internal "power distribution" of Ac receptacles and you can easily tell by the plugs on the individual modules, etc, if they're 120v. If you can't trace out the twistlock or have an electrician do it, and the modules are all 120volt, just use a standard power strip to power everything up.

Oh..if you look closely at the twistlock there should be a NEMA number , something like "L515R" on it. Post what that number is and I can tell you what voltage and hookup it is.

EDIT:
As for the encoder, most Magna-Tech dubbers expect to see 10 pulse per frame biphase. I'm not sure if the MTM is the same.. So you'll most likely need to change the encoder pulleys to get that output, or if your sync box can output 10ppf biphase from the existing encoders you're good to go.

See

THIS THREAD for my dubber installation at UC Irvine.

And here's a link to discussion on dubber manuals... LINKY

[ 04-30-2009, 01:47 PM: Message edited by: Tony Bandiera Jr ]

Posted by Stephen Furley (Member # 1277) on 04-28-2009, 06:48 AM:

NEMA straight blade:

web page

And twist lock:

web page

Configuration charts.

Also, a better version, but only for straight blade:

web page

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 04-28-2009, 12:46 PM:

Thanks Stephen, those charts are handy. [thumbsup]

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-28-2009, 02:41 PM:

MTM like Westrex/RCA used some odd frequencies on their tacks
I have several and had to build frequency convertors to lock them with my Magnatech recorders

Posted by Daniel Weber (Member # 2866) on 04-28-2009, 06:43 PM:

Thanks for the info guys, can't seem to get hold of Scottsound, I guess I'll just have to fiddle with it.

Daniel

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 04-30-2009, 01:42 PM:

Daniel. Scottsound is a "mom and pop" business, be patient and you'll get through. I do have Tom's cell phone number, I'll try to get a hold of him and see if I can PM that number to you.

Also note that I had to change my original post above as I have confused MTM with Magna-Tech...

Posted by Daniel Weber (Member # 2866) on 04-30-2009, 05:38 PM:

Thanks Tony,

Scottsound helped me with a problem some 15 years ago, I was well cared for as I recall, I know they are good people, but after no answer by phone or email, I'm afraid they might be gone now. It's not a high priority project, just want to use it or get rid of it.

Turns out it is 120v, it has a Hubbell connector (non NEMA) that can be 120v or 220v. I powered it up and it seems to work except for the take-up reels. I'm about to check the sync out with my o-scope and those reel related push buttons.

Posted by Daniel Weber (Member # 2866) on 07-03-2009, 10:30 AM:

A follow up on my dubber, I was working on this reply for a post about a Steenbeck that just disappeared, strange.

The take-up reels on my MTM dubber did not work after I powered it up. I pulled the circuit board and inspected the solder joints with a powerful 42x magnifier from Surplus Shed, found some cold or cracked solder joints and re-soldered. But that didn't fix it. I looked at the numbers on all the IC chips and figured out what they were by searching Google and Digikey, (none of the ICs were programmed, just op amps and stuff) I ordered replacements at a cost of less than a dollar each. Installed and presto! She works!!