Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Tightening the framing adjustment on a Simplex XL

This is topic Tightening the framing adjustment on a Simplex XL in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-12-2009, 11:53 PM:

I've never had to adjust this because most Simplexes I've used have been fine, more or less. But I have one now where the framing is much too loose, so much so that it drifts a little bit each day. How do I tighten this up? All I see is perhaps a little U-clamp with two screws that rubs against the mechanism. Loosening or tightening this seems to make no difference. The manual makes no mention of any type of adjustment for this.

Also, did they only have flathead/slotted/straight edge screws back in the 1800's when the Simplex was invented? They sure went overboard with 'em.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-13-2009, 08:36 AM:

First make sure you don't have a ton of gate tension... this can happen on Mellenniums from slamming the gates shut... the gate works back further and further into the trap and this goes un-noticed until the framing starts to slowly creep.

Or...

If this is a later machine the spring clamps that provide the framing friction actually hold the intermittent framing sector into the main frame of the projector. I've seen a couple of times where someone has pushed in hard on the intermittend and actually bent the spring clamps back causing things to become very loose. On older mahcines they used small metal blocks and if the framing is used alot the metal blocks wear and the whole framing sector becomes loose and framing creeps. With either of these problems you need to install new metal clamp springs to get the framing tension back to where it should be... Oh, that spring down under the framing sector is a doosey to get at... Some reccomend puttng two springs on the top one only but I disagree as it will cause the large bore in the main frame to wear unevenly. Replace both P-1705 spring clips to do the job correctly!!

Another thing you can check is to see of one of the c-clips on the framing shaft has come off... namely the outer one holding the P-1755 spring under tension... this spring does proivide a little bit of tension to the whole framing scheme but is there more to aid in retainig the shaft seals.

Don't drop any hardware in the oil sump!!
Mark

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-13-2009, 10:48 AM:

Mark has it right. Bring a double set (4) of the spring clips and put 2 on each side. The old screws are now way too long so bring shorter screws as well (4) and you will be OK.

This is primarily only on the old New Jersey back XL's. Louis

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 07-20-2009, 01:32 PM:

quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Another thing you can check is to see of one of the c-clips on the framing shaft has come off... namely the outer one holding the P-1755 spring under tension... this spring does proivide a little bit of tension to the whole framing scheme but is there more to aid in retainig the shaft seals.

Actually since the new version of the seals and framing spring get the framing mechanism super tight in most cases I'd suggest replacing the spring and seals first BEFORE going to the spring clips holding the intermittant cam. Or just take the existing P-1755 spring off, stretch it a bit then put it back on.

Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 07-20-2009, 11:44 PM:

quote:
Don't drop any hardware in the oil sump!!

Good Call

Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-21-2009, 12:55 AM:

Yes, that is a good call. But it is also particularly hard since Simplex didn't believe in allen/hex screws and insisted on using slotted screws for nearly everything. Those things are easier to drop than the Film-Tech EZ2D rewinder cores.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 07-21-2009, 04:37 AM:

quote:
Don't drop any hardware in the oil sump!!

Why Simplex mechanics have retractable magnetic retrievers in their toolbox .. how many times have I dropped a screw or tab in the sump esp when changing out an intermittent assembly and those hold down tabs with screws do not like to cooperate?

(Christies are tons easier to change out ....)

-Monte

Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-21-2009, 02:12 PM:

I don't think you're supposed to remove those tabs, Monte. Just loosen them a little and rotate them out of the way. [Wink]

Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 07-21-2009, 03:32 PM:

Yeah, Just loosen the screw enough to allow the tab to swing out of the way. I have had to change the intermittent a few times over the years at one theater or another and never had a screw fall in the sump. But one can use a long magnet to catch a small magnet that you can drop in the sump to help collect any metal fibers that can get down there that the filter doesn't catch.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 07-21-2009, 03:47 PM:

Yea, just rotate the tab and lock it back down.

Mark