Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Strong Platter Motors

This is topic Strong Platter Motors in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010292

Posted by Richard May (Member # 2627) on 01-29-2010, 03:06 PM:

After searching previous post and finding so many responses on different ones, I decided to start a new post. This has to do with the the older grey motors and the newer black motors. Many people including myself have had issues with the newer black ones being used with the older grey ones on the same platter. I have read posts saying to bypass the diode.....not to bypass the diode.....and so forth. I had called Design and Engineering a few month ago about it, and they told me that they have not heard of any problems. I find that not only hard to believe, but impossible. Anyway, I spoke with someone at Strong the other day who actually has dealt with this issue. He said that as long as you use the black motors on all 3 decks, you will be fine. He also said that if you have to use 1 black motor only, to put it on the bottom deck. He said that they are too unreliable when mixed with the grey motors. As far as the diode goes in the black motor, bypass them when used on the older strong platters regardless of whether or not all 3 decks have them. This has been a problem for a long time around here since these new motors came out. Obviously, rebuilding the old grey ones is the best solution but in case you buy a new black one, this is what you have to deal with.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-29-2010, 06:41 PM:

quote: Richard May
I had called Design and Engineering a few month ago about it, and they told me that they have not heard of any problems.

You are spot on by saying you find that had to believe. Actually they are outright lieing to you! There are differences from the new motors to the old motors and it is mainly in the torque they develop. The newer motors have lower torque than do the older ones. Strong actually put out a bulliten on this because it's almost impossible to time a new motor to an old one or vice versa. You have to change out the sleeve on the end of the motor shaft to a smaller sleeve to get the older motors to match the newer ones. Also, if you rebuild an older motor it will run with less torque than it did necessitating changing the sleeve to be able time them. No one seems to know exactly what has been changed or why but it's possible both the brushes AND the commutator have seen changes. I have changed out brushes and also found the motor is developing less torque even after a lengthy brush seat in time. Installing a new commutator and brushes together gets you less torque... I have to deal with this very situation tommrrow afternoon at a theater!!

Posted by Richard May (Member # 2627) on 01-29-2010, 07:00 PM:

I have found that even changing the shaft on the motors doesn't help a lot of the time. Strong said that the black motors work better on the newer Strong platters. So apparantly, they don't really care as much about the older ones most people have. This has been nothing but a pain in the ass. It sucks having to tell the customer that they have to buy 3 new motors to fix the bad one they have.

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 01-29-2010, 10:34 PM:

I must post the solution to your problem by quoting myself from another thread: [Big Grin]

quote: ME
Christie part # AW3R

Save your self the effort and cost, as you can easily find used, good condition AW3r's at reasonable prices as lots of theatres do their D-Crapema conversions. The cost could easily be less than the parts from Wrong. (Locally I have found good used AW3's with MUTs for as little as $500.)

Maybe even free if you're willing to pick up and haul off the platters.

Take some time and research this, the AW3's will give you a LOT less headaches in the long run. No matter what Gordon is gonna say soon.. [Razz]

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 01-30-2010, 12:16 AM:

I know that I've chimed on this before, but agree that you buy a motor from STRONG, they're about $440 apiece. But I did post how to rebuild these motors from using vacuum motors from Grainger (2M262 motors),but somehow their operation now is a little different.

Thus, I had to go to the 1/2" sleeve for these rebuilds and will work better with microswitch brains. If you use these retrofit motors on phase control brains, the slight voltage difference caused by the phase control can make the deck run slower in payout RPM's and you'll have wrap problems for the first 10 minutes of the payout.

Yet, the big, big trick in any motor swapout to a new one, is to get the new brushes seated completely on the "com"..and how you do that is mount the motor on the platter tower, unlock the motor from the deck, then plug the MUT in and put the system to "build". Then run the motor in with the knob 2/3'rds open and keep it there for a good hour.

-Monte

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-30-2010, 06:04 PM:

The trick in my service call today is that all three motors are now rebuilt and they time up adaquately.

Mark

Posted by Richard May (Member # 2627) on 02-01-2010, 12:40 PM:

I think that's the key. As long as all motors are the same, there won't be any problems. BTW, if anybody wants to get rid of their "troublesome" Strong platters, I will gladly take them. Other than the FEW issues I have had with strong platters, they have given me, and most people I have spoken to, far less problems than Christies. [Razz]