Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Dim bulb striking on superhighlight console

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Posted by Michael Voiland (Member # 5386) on 02-22-2010, 09:10 AM:

We have the original strong super highlight consoles at the theater i work at. We have this one machine that when you strike the bulb it starts off real dim and then gets brighter over time. Doesn't matter if its a brand new bulb or not it still strikes dim and gets brighter, has anyone else had this issue with these consoles.
Using a 2k rectifier with Superior sx series 2k bulbs.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 02-22-2010, 03:19 PM:

which type of rectifier is installed in the console

Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 02-22-2010, 04:13 PM:

How much time? 1-2 mins? 3-5? 5-10? 15-30? 30-an hour?

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 02-22-2010, 05:17 PM:

I more call it being the bulb. Have you tried a different brand of bulb like Osram or Christie? Super highlights might contain a switcher rectifier.

Never heard of a bulb striking dim then getting bright after it's all "heated" up. Mainly the other way around when the bulb is bright on strike up then might go dim due to age, gas leakage, et.al. ..

-Monte

Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 02-22-2010, 05:26 PM:

I have heard of it but without more info there are too many possibilities. It could be a bad transformer, bad contactor, an issue with incoming power, it could be a diode bridge issue, and if it's a switching power supply it could be other things. We need more info here.

I would bet though that what is happening is that only 2 out of 3 phases are getting through at first because one leg on the contactor isn't making a good connection causing the dim bulb (like when a diode opens up). but then once things heat up and the metal expands it starts to make better contact and then you get all three phases and full light output. That's my guess.

Posted by Sam D. Chavez (Member # 1841) on 02-22-2010, 07:02 PM:

The original poster did not mention whether the lamp current increases at the same time. Seems like the place to start.

Posted by Michael Voiland (Member # 5386) on 02-22-2010, 10:55 PM:

Thanks I guess I should clarify.
The bulb strikes dim and after 1 - 2 minutes it reaches full brightness. This is different from our other 3 super highlights which just come right on.
I will have my booth tech check the contactor but my booth tech believes all 35mm equipment is trash so him fixing it is highly unlikely.

These consoles are from 89 if I remember correctly the current increases over time. Superior 2k bulb.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 02-22-2010, 11:03 PM:

quote: Michael Voiland
but my booth tech believes all 35mm equipment is trash

Then, it's time to find a new tech.

His days are done for your company. He just lost a contact and if he works for a service/supplier company, I'd file a major complaint against him.

He should never show any personal feelings about any cinema's equipment - whether new or old, film and/or digital.

Plain, unprofessional service and horrible customer satisfaction in my book.

quote: Michael Voiland
These consoles are from 89

I did a premiere screening last week at a theatre that had Highlights that were made in 1988 that put out great light from Philips/LTI Helios 4200w bulbs (not my favorite bulb), so this age-of-console thing is totally not an excuse to fall back on.

-Monte

Posted by Michael Voiland (Member # 5386) on 02-23-2010, 12:56 AM:

The difference is that the owner doesn't care at my theater. They are getting 2 new digital projectors to use on 4 screens. Aka projectionists will be moving projectors. The super highlights were all hacked up the fail safes are failing or were cut out. We are lucky if we get 2000 hours out of a xenon bulb. Our booth tech wont even fix a changeover power supply and has blown me off 3 times. He is an independent booth tech. He didn't say trash I am misquoting him he said it was worthless.

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 02-23-2010, 03:50 PM:

Michael,

First off your tech is still a bonehead and needs to be fired. His job is to keep the equipment you have at hand working to the highest possible standard for as long as parts are still available. Too bad I'm not in the area as I would be happy to help you out.

Edited to add: You need to "out" that tech here so other Film-Techers don't get screwed over by that clown.

Secondly, with your owner's attitude I would be looking for a new job if I were you. The writing is on the wall and your job could be gone next since he doesn't seem to give a rat's ass about getting things fixed right. Instead of wasting all that money on D-Crapema he needs to throw down a few bucks to fix this problem.

Now as for this problem, if you have the old magnetic transformer rectifiers, you need to check the connection studs found behind the lower door on the operator's side of the lamphouse, Make sure they are all tight, and if any are discolored or burned you MUST get them fixed NOW or they will burn up completely and possibly set the phenolic board they're on on fire.

Another thing to look for is the pass-thru stud on the front of the lamp, if it is loose on the bottom you will have the same problem. It is possible for the top stud to be tight and the bottom side of the stud to be loose.

Other possible causes of your issue can be bad diodes, the blocking diode failing, or if it's a switcher power supply it has internal issues and will need to be replaced.

Hope some of this helps.

Posted by Michael Voiland (Member # 5386) on 02-25-2010, 08:31 PM:

Thank you I will check all the connections on Tuesday when I am scheduled for maintenance.