This is topic 5 Star soundhead, component engineering part replacement question. in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 06-01-2010, 03:29 PM:
 
I have a 5 Star soundhead with a component engineering basement reader kit ST30. One of the screws mounting the spud plate to the standoff post has stripped out. I am planning on installing a new standoff post and was wondering what the easiest way is to dismount it. Below is a drawing of the post I am going to replace.


 

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Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 06-01-2010, 03:54 PM:
 
You are going to have to pull the whole plate to get to the three screws that hold the post on. I normally put blue Loctite on those screws so they don't loosen.

When you are done you will need to properly realign the LED mounts and get them perfectly centered.

I would suggest not worrying about the one stripped out screw...two screws should hold things well enough. Heck, on the Century mount, they only have two screws.

Steve
 

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Posted by Ian Parfrey (Member # 5122) on 06-01-2010, 06:33 PM:
 
Eric.

If you follow Steve's advice and are still concerned about the stripped out thread, while the post is out, take it to an engineering firm and get them to re-tap the hole with a helicoil and job is done. I'd venture that is a much cheaper, and just as effective alternative then buying a new post. Total cost of a helicoil- a couple of $.
 

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Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 06-01-2010, 07:00 PM:
 
Steve, I noticed the plate encircles the shaft of the sound drum, so it would seem that the sound drum would impede my ability to pull the plate, but I'm not sure about this, does it just slide over everything nicely?

The two remaining screws are not holding the spud plate securely for some reason. So, much as I would like to leave it I must take it all out and fix it properly. I am very good with A Chains so I'll have no problems aligning things again.

The town I am doing the repair in is small and without engineering shop resources. Maybe I could just get a regular tap and tap the hole down deeper and then just buy some longer screws.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 06-01-2010, 09:29 PM:
 
What about using lock-tite to secure the plate down more? You could re-drill and retap with longer screws, but good luck in drilling the holes square - can be tricky.

You might have to get a new plate and braket assembly from C.E.

quote: Eric Robinson

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I noticed the plate encircles the shaft of the sound drum, so it would seem that the sound drum would impede my ability to pull the plate, but I'm not sure about this, does it just slide over everything nicely?

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When you replace that plate, you have to take apart and remove the flywheel/scanner drum assembly so the front bearing can come forward part-way so it will act as a guide to get that plate assembly square to the rest of the system for easier re-alignment. (Hope you got a pair of snap ring pliers with sharp pins to remove the snap rings on the bearings...)

Then, after re-install, you have to re-align the entire optics with the "A" chain techniques.

Sounds like you got work in front of you to do ...

-good luck .. Monte
 

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Posted by Randy Bowden (Member # 587) on 06-02-2010, 01:04 AM:
 
Eric, maybe we have one those kicking around the shop somewhere. I'll take a look around for you tomorrow.
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 06-02-2010, 08:22 AM:
 
Sound drum has to be removed to get the plate out
 

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Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 06-02-2010, 05:45 PM:
 
Luckily I found that the suspected stripped screw was actually shearing in half.
Not luckily I found that the standoff post was loose which meant that I
would have to remove the locater plate to tighten the screws on the backside.
Here's how it went:


Remove spud plate

Remove the pickup assemblies bracket

Remove the sound arm

Remove the adapter block

Remove the flywheel

Remove the retaining ring and the impedance drum assembly
While simultaneously removing the locator plate

Since the soundarm is out, its a good opportunity to rebuild it

I usually throw away and replace the:
Roller shaft
Roller shaft screws (2)
Friction roller
Ball Bearings (2)
Compression spring on roller shaft
Then I clean all parts meticulously and reassemble

Then put everything back together, analog and digital A chain - easy.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 06-03-2010, 12:43 AM:
 

quote: Eric Robinson

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Then put everything back together, analog and digital A chain - easy.

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quote: Monte L Fullmer

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(and there is too much oil in the projector case for you can't see the top of the oil level in the glass. Should be down the glass a bit so the top of the oil level isn't above the main drive shaft, or the main drive seal will finally let go and you'll have leaks like crazy..)

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Wrong on both counts. The oil does need changing, though.
 

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Posted by Randy Bowden (Member # 587) on 06-04-2010, 01:07 PM:
 
Wow Eric, you get more involved than I usually do on an impedance roller rebuild LOL.

Oh and I agree with Steve. Oil level is fine, but may need to be changed. If the rear main seal leaks oil, it's because it's old and wore out. Has nothing to do with over filling the machine. If you can see the oil level when the projector is running, your fine.
 

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Posted by Eric Robinson (Member # 2966) on 06-04-2010, 03:55 PM:
 
Thanks for the vote of praise on the rebuild.

I usually keep adding oil to these projectors until I'm happy with the oil slinging. As far as the gear covers go, I send them to ACE for rebuild, that's why none of them leak.
I'll admit it is time for an oil change. I'm going to have to photoshop my sightglasses next time before I post.
 

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Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 06-04-2010, 09:51 PM:
 
What? no comments about Simplexes always leaking oil, even when there is no oil? Louis
 

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