quote: Tony Bandiera Jr

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I have two of the switchers that, brand new, will frequently light a 2k bulb and hang up at 27amps. After you turn it off and back on again they'll come up to normal.

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I had one (small gray case) that would do that too. I never could figure out why it would do that or for that matter how it was able to ignite the lamp and keep it lit at ~27 amps (yes the light output was dim). At first I thought it was a the amp meter hanging up, but like you I would power it off and back on and it would come right up to the normal amp output. Alas, its no longer in service since the screen was converted to digital.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 09-30-2010, 05:18 PM:
 
..and if their V.1 compacts suitcases (the one with the 8 LED's and black case),they're dinosaurs for a repair/exhchange.

I think that STRONG still does repair/exchange on V.2 (grey case with the 4 LED's), but don't know for how long..

-Monte
 

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Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 09-30-2010, 05:49 PM:
 
Jeremy: Can you get the serial number off it and post here? I am curious if it is of the same "lot" or production run as the ones I have.

Monte, the ones I have (and I think the one Jeremy has) are the current production units.

I kinda miss the older ones with the more extensive diagnostic LEDS on them...IIRC the current models still have the spaces on the boards for the full LED set.

Anyone from Strong still on here care to explain WTF is up with these things? Why are they hanging up at 27 amps of all values?
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 09-30-2010, 11:57 PM:
 
What does the rectifier list as its output range
 

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Posted by Jeremy Weigel (Member # 4208) on 10-01-2010, 01:13 AM:
 
I'll get that SN when I go back Monday.

One other thing I remember about that switcher is that I got buzzed when I touched the case when trying to do some trouble shooting. My upper arm was touching the console (Super Highlight (1988)) and when I grabbed the switcher to move it over I got zapped pretty good. I could put a volt meter with one lead on the switcher case and the other grounded to the console and get 120v reading. Strong told me to make sure the switcher ground strap was connected to the consoles earth ground lug. After that I had no further shocks, but the intermittent 27 amp output problem still occurred.
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 10-01-2010, 09:30 AM:
 
SN isn't needed but the output rateing is
the shock issue is interesting since it is an aluminum case so there should be nothing inducted to it
I think one of the devices has shorted to the case inside
also for there to be a potential difference between the console and the rectifier case means that one of those two devices doesn't have a ground in its main connection
 

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Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 10-01-2010, 12:48 PM:
 
Gordon, the serial number is needed in this case as I am trying to find out if his p/s is in the same range as the ones I have. I want to know how widespread the problem is.

As for the shock issue Strong's switchers have always had what Strong calls "high leakage current" and the early consoles with switchers had labels in them near the grounding lug that said something like "Warning: High leakage current, console MUST be grounded."

And Cameron's supply is supposed to be good for up to 5,000 watts according to the manual.
 

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Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 10-01-2010, 02:13 PM:
 
Leakage currents still should not be an issue if both devices had proper grounding on there mains as well
 

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Posted by Cameron Andrews (Member # 5246) on 10-01-2010, 10:57 PM:
 
Sorry, I haven't been able to get back to respond! I don't think it is a problem with the switcher because it was tested off-site on 230V and worked just fine. I am definitely going to try changing the trim pot inside. The fact that I get the same output with single phase and 3-phase suggests to me that there is some current limiting going on somewhere. I'll try that first and let you know. It is rated for 3-5k and can run on 208/240 single or 3-phase. The leads are not warm and connections all appear to be tight, but the connection on the negative side of the bulb is a beast to access in the big sky units. I have also tried it on another bulb (CXL-40SC) with the same result. All in all, I'm still very happy with this Big Sky though.

Quick testimonial for Big Sky: I switched from an ORC 4500 console running 4200W bulb. This unit with its problems is only giving me about 3000W and the light output is many times better than the old system. I can't wait to see what it will do at 4200W.

Thanks for the help. I'll let you know what I learn.

P.S. I have a strong switcher on a 2K unit at the indoor and it occasionally hangs up on 27 amps too. Shut it down, turn it back on, and all is well. Guess that's another argument to use again supporters of remote/timer starts!
 

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Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 10-01-2010, 11:19 PM:
 
Thanks for the update Cameron. Keep us posted.

And if you get a chance get the serial number of the 2k that hangs at 27 amps..I sense a major trend.

To Cameron, Jeremy and anyone else with the "27 amp hang" issue, please respond on THIS THREAD.

Oh, and properly designed electrical equipment should NEVER have a "high leakage current" as part of its design. I am curious as to how Strong got that past UL and other testing agencies.
 

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Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-02-2010, 02:47 AM:
 

quote: Tony Bandiera Jr

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I am curious as to how Strong got that past UL and other testing agencies.

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