Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Replacement pump for Strong water circulators

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Posted by Jason Raftery (Member # 6291) on 11-02-2011, 05:23 PM:

The multiplex I work at has Simplex PR-1014 projectors with Strong water circulators. Most of the original pumps failed long ago and have been replaced with a variety of fountain pumps from hardware stores. The replacement pumps run for a couple of years before they silently fail.

Does anyone have a recommendation on a specific make/model of a longer lasting replacement submersible pump that won't break the bank?

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 11-02-2011, 05:43 PM:

What brand were the hardware store pumps? Only "Little Giant" brand pumps have lasted for any length of time for me. Last one I recall changing was over 15 years ago. (That was when I changed it, I haven't serviced that location for about 12 years so I don;t know if they're still running.) I have one that I used for my own rental projector, when I find it I can post the model #.

Forgot to add that the pump will last longer with a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze, changed annually or sooner if it gets moldy or foul smelling. DO NOT ever use plain water or all antifreeze!! (Plain water only will kill the pump and corrode your trap water lines, and straight antifreeze has almost no heat transfer ability.)

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 11-02-2011, 08:40 PM:

One "trick" used with metal cans is to line them with two garbage bags. They never rust or corrode. Obviously the plastic ones don't have this problem. Louis

Posted by Jason Raftery (Member # 6291) on 11-03-2011, 02:12 PM:

Thanks for the replies guys.

The drums for our circulators are plastic, so no rust issues there. The pumps I've fished out have been labeled Beckett, assorted house brands, or have illegible labels. Doesn't look like we've tried Little Giant yet.

The circulators are currently filled with a mix of antifreeze and water. With it becoming more difficult to dispose of ethylene glycol locally, I'm considering just using distilled water and Water Wetter as recommended in some other posts on this site in lieu of the antifreeze. Is there a significant downside to going this route?

Posted by Tony Bandiera Jr (Member # 2365) on 11-04-2011, 12:13 AM:

I can't vouch for the "Water Wetter" but I would think that it would not have either the heat transfer or more importantly, seal lubrication action that E-G does.

I haven;t tried it, but if others have with good results, then might be worth a shot. (Depending on cost too.)

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 11-04-2011, 09:28 AM:

The Little Giant pumps were from their No Karode line...with NK-1 and NK-2 models.

As for the circulators...the blue-tubs were the worst. They freakin' hold the heat and let it build up! At least the metal drums allowed it to let the room help cool things.

The problems with bags in the circulators is that I've seen the pump clog on the bag.

Ballantyne had an okay circulator when it was all metal. They used a Teel pump that sat outside of the tank and pulled the water from the top...thereby letting the sediment fall to the bottom rather than sucking the bad stuff.

As to liquids...Always start with Distilled water...nothing but. If you change it regularly enough, that is all you need to do...the more sealed your system is, the longer it will last.

Failing that, Kinoton has happened on the most amazing stuff. Tyfocor...it is an EG based additive but a little goes a long way and the water NEVER gets scummy. It works MUCH better than plain anti-freeze. Tyfocor is clear and the water stays that way for YEARS. The down side is the price...A jug of it will set you back hundreds! But at a 5:1 concentrate, it can make quite a bit of coolant.

Those of you that remember the Series 0 DLP projectors will recognize the Thermotek heat exchanger. With less than a liter of coolant, it will far out perform any of the typical water circulators out there. It is expensive but it does the job real well. MiT also will add a radiator/fan to the typical blue tub system...but it uses too much water. There is no need/benefit to having such a reservoir of water if you have a heat exchanger in the system with forced air.

-Steve

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 11-04-2011, 01:32 PM:

Steve; I think you've said it all. The radiators are really needed, like the old Arcal recirculators. Louis

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 11-04-2011, 01:56 PM:

I Wouldn't worry on Redline's "Water Wetter" since you're already "throttling" the water through the trap ass'y to pull the heat off the required surfaces through the small pipework..

..but do the distilled water as recommended.

Posted by Gary A. Hoselton (Member # 3447) on 11-05-2011, 10:07 PM:

Reminiscent of the rope tow way back when at Hoodoo Ski Area on Santiam Pass, Oregon: a Buick straight 6 engine with Dynaflow set to run 70 MPH, with two barrels alongside for cooling, all on a wood platform about 20 feet up on poles. Area operator told me one barrel wasn't enough with load of wet snow, three barrels too much. Only enough antifreeze for 20 below. The lashup ran years without trouble. OK, back to topic.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 11-06-2011, 01:36 PM:

quote: Steve Guttag
As for the circulators...the blue-tubs were the worst. They freakin' hold the heat and let it build up! At least the metal drums allowed it to let the room help cool things.

It's nice to know that someone other than myself noticed just how hot the water in those circulators can get! What a usless item. One time I got so [Mad]

off I called Strong Customer support and invited them to come boil hot dogs with me in the water circulator.... [Eek!]

Posted by Kenneth Wuepper (Member # 1174) on 11-06-2011, 04:14 PM:

The drive-in I worked as projectionist had a 55 gallon water heater tank with the outside insulation removed. It worked wonderfully well and the water only got slightly warm by the end of the night. 2 Strong UHI Lalmps with Brenkert/RCA heads.

The lot is now a Menards store.

KEN