Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Century R-3 Help Needed

This is topic Century R-3 Help Needed in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011364

Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 12-30-2012, 09:20 AM:

Hi All

I recently acquired a Century C (3-window door w/4 inch lense barrel) and a R-3.

I need some instructions/help regarding the Century R-3. Most of my experience is with RCA and Simplex units.

This R3 has been retrofited with the Component Engineering ASR-40 Reverse Scan package. Not only did this soundhead require a major general cleaning, but some parts require replacement, such as the sound drum roller bearings.

I do know that the guide rollers are out of adjustment. Can someone please walk me through the correct procedure to re-align them...as the only way to access the inner pivots (and their locknuts) is with the R5-30B assembly removed from the soundhead casting. Yes, the pivots (upper guide roller) are loose and not properly aligned)

Also, is there anything special to know about servicing the damper with fluid.

Cheers

Kutler

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 12-30-2012, 10:51 AM:

The arms aren't really hard to adjust. Assuming they aren't damaged of course. See which pivot screw has loosened if you can, and leave the other one alone. Basically the lower roller should align with the sound drum. The upper one with the flanged roller should have the arm at roughly the same point as the lower one centred between the pivot frame arms. Clean the pivot bearings and the screw points, oil the bearings. As I recall early arms had plain bearings and later ones have very small ball bearings. The pivot screws should be tightened just enough to eliminate play, not so the arm pivot stiffens up. The stops should just keep the rollers from hitting the sound drum.
Clean the roller bearings as well. If you have early plain bearing rollers expect them to be worn and sloppy, I would replace them with current ball bearing parts if I found these. Excepting the early dum shaft plain bearings, all the parts are interchangeable with recent models: you can change a sleeve caseting to accept ball bearings but it is not worth the trouble with soundheads trading at scrap value. The plain bearings, unless worn, are fine to use anyway. You can get new oilite bushings if they are sloppy. Assuming you can find exact replacements... if not, stock size bushings can be cut to fit with a lathe.
The damper assembly should be checked for wear at the attachment of the piston arm. There should be no play, it shouldn't have any movement of the arm without moving the piston. If it does have slop, the weird screw may be flattened at the contact points and just turning it a bit (shim washer) should correct that.
Once assembled thread some film through the soundhead and adjust the metal plate (it's pretty loose on the mounting screws) so the pointer meets the line with the arms pulled out a bit, you can see when one more perf is too much and one less is not enough.
Then you fill the cylinder with silicon fluid (100cS?) up to the line and slide it up and secure it. Don't do this if you're not going to mount and use the soundhead as it does evaporate slowly, and if the soundhead is laid on its side the fluid will leak out.
Film alignment is by loosening the locking screw and turning the upper roller shaft, moving the flanged roller in and out. Buzz track etc is required. The CE reader manual goes through the setup for that.

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 12-30-2012, 12:24 PM:

All of the above is proper and good. One more hint: START with centering the slug in the center of the damper pot mount. You will then have the lower arm finished. Then align the top roller to agree with the bottom roller. This is all done on the workbench. Final alignment with film of top roller only.

The "alignment lines" are fine tuned by loosening the large belt gear on the back of the soundhead. There is no "flat" so you can get precise alignment. Louis

Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 12-30-2012, 03:12 PM:

Dave and Louis

Thanks for the tips! I have been looking at the R3 Manual (p.3) uploaded on FT. Yes, my upper guide roller assembly is of the early plain bearing type, with little to no noticable slop [Big Grin]

This unit was quite dirty, and it was difficult to see just how these adjustments are made. I was weary of disassembly for cleaning until I understood the assembly. The upper roller shaft, instead of having the E-ring, is drilled and tapped for a screw.

The tightness of fit for the damper seems to be ok.

Louis...I attempted to previously contact you. Would you be up to giving my intermittent a once-over.

Once again, thanks for the help!!

Kutler

Now things are clearly understood [Big Grin]

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 12-30-2012, 07:37 PM:

Be glad to hear from you. I'm not sure how to list my email address to be in compliance. try it through film tech.

Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 12-30-2012, 08:31 PM:

I sent both you and Dick Prather private messages via F.T. and never heard back. Please ck you F.T. e-mail and private messages.

Cheers

Kutler