Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: SH-1000 Motor Grease

This is topic SH-1000 Motor Grease in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Erik Lallucci (Member # 7490) on 07-14-2013, 07:58 PM:

Hello,

What grease should be used for a Simplex sh-1000 motor? I see it says Simplex rear shutter grease or Marfak #2.

I am not sure if these are still available or if there is some else recommended.

Thanks
Erik

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-14-2013, 11:21 PM:

most of those motors if rebuilt will have permanently sealed bearings installed by the motor shop old one i just use wheel bearing grease

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-15-2013, 07:05 AM:

You must disassemble to determine IF you need grease. #1 cause of failure: too much grease interfereing with start switch.

Posted by Robert Koch (Member # 3728) on 07-15-2013, 01:23 PM:

After years of having operators who were well versed in the greasing of locomotives and tractors I would disassemble the motor replace with sealed bearings maybe a new centrifugal switch solder the bottom of the grease cups closed and was content that the operators found they would always find the grease cups full.
As Louis said; they would pump so much grease into them that the centrifugal switch wouldnt operate and then you were in real trouble.

Posted by Dick Prather (Member # 1136) on 07-15-2013, 05:50 PM:

I agree with the above. We used to remove the grease cups and replace them with allen set screws. The one that plugs the rear of a X-L works great. Sealed or double shielded ball bearings will work just fine. Bearings are a common one. Can't remember which soundhead motor has two size bearings but it's a 6202 & 6203 or two 6202's

Old starting switches are hard to find so be careful when cleaning. Don't care for solid state starting switches. Have fun. Dick

Posted by Erik Lallucci (Member # 7490) on 07-15-2013, 06:30 PM:

Thanks for the info everyone.
Perhaps I should just leave things alone. There seems to be grease in the cups and the motor is working good. I just want to make sure I do any routine maintenance on the motor so it doesn't fail on me.

Erik

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-16-2013, 12:46 PM:

When we overhauled these, we inverted the motor (oil cups to bottom) which also had the effect of moving the power knockout to the back. No "tempting" oil cups since we had sealed ball bearings and electronic start switches. Louis

Posted by Robert Koch (Member # 3728) on 07-18-2013, 05:46 PM:

Erik
From the looks of that motor and surroundings it looks like your doing your maintainance just fine. Another useless item I used to remove is the flywheel brake, especially if I could1nt stop the operators from using in a routine manner.Looks like the original Leland motor and from Dick`s post it sounds like they are no longer in business if you cant get anymore parts.

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 07-18-2013, 07:58 PM:

Long gone. Even the start switches, which had an after-market source for years are no longer available. My old time motor shop cannot find a substitute even with hundreds of catalogs. The electronic start system works well, can be mounted internally or remotely (3 wires to motor.) Louis

Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 07-19-2013, 02:20 PM:

Louis,
Could you post a little more information on the replacement electronic starters for old single phase motors. I tried looking them up on McMaster-Carr and found nothing. Thanks.