Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: ORC 1000 repair?

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Posted by Ed Inman (Member # 2583) on 01-10-2014, 10:06 PM:

Does anyone still service or have spare parts for ORC 1000 lamphouses? These are the 110v units with an integrated rectifier to operate 700 watt xenon lamps.
I know these were not highly regarded in theater settings, but they are ideal for home and mobile use where you have space and power limitations. I have a crate for easy shipping and return via UPS.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. --Ed

Posted by Bernie Anderson Jr (Member # 410) on 01-12-2014, 06:21 AM:

What's wrong with it?

Posted by Ed Inman (Member # 2583) on 01-12-2014, 09:31 AM:

Sparks but won't ignite. May be open diode, may need some new caps, igniter may need repair. Pretty loud buzz while it tries to fire (compared to a soft hum on the unit working). I don't know. Really would like to get it thoroughly evaluated by someone familiar with them. I know it's old but I hate to just throw it away in case the repair may be relatively simple. I'm pretty good with mechanical stuff--not so much electrical.

Posted by Bernie Anderson Jr (Member # 410) on 01-12-2014, 12:04 PM:

You have to check to see what kind of spark gap you have. If its the open adjustable one (it looks like two screws with a small gap between them and its mounted to one of the small round looking cap on the ignitor (under the lamp)), it may be out of adjustment. It has to be right otherwise it will just zap until it trips the fuse or breaker. The fact that its trying to light is a good thing and shows the ignitor is working and the interlocks and relays are good up to that point. You may have a spark gap that looks like a little christmas tree light, which could be weak. Check your bulb connections.

An open diode should trip the main breaker.

Posted by Paul H. Rayton (Member # 1817) on 01-12-2014, 01:54 PM:

How long since it last operated? Maybe the bulb is "tired". Do you have another one you can try? If so, that might help answer your question.

Also: are you able to measure the DC voltage available, as coming from the rectifier? CAUTION!!! BE CAREFUL measuring this value. Since you state that "electrical stuff" is not your forte, maybe you could ask for assistance with this. It's not terribly high voltage, but ... well, it does call for caution to avoid shorts, etc.

Posted by Ed Inman (Member # 2583) on 01-12-2014, 02:16 PM:

It was operating up until a couple of months ago, though, as I mentioned, buzzed loudly every time it the rectifier would be turned on to ignite the lamp. The last time I tried to ignite it, I heard a fairly loud pop in the machine about the time it would normally light. I turned around to look and then it did it again. That time I saw what appeared to a spark in the rectifier section in back through the hole where the axial adjustment sticks out. The spark appeared to occur in the upper rear area about where the printed circuit boards are located. It did not blow any breakers but at that point I turned it off as I feared there was something potentially hazardous going on. The lamp was properly connected with well under 500 hours of use. To test I removed it and installed it on my other unit and it works fine. I normally operate it between 30 and 35 amps with a 700 watt lamp. That's about all I know.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-12-2014, 03:17 PM:

One of the IC on the triac board is no longer madeso hopefully it hasnt died
Basicly the unit is a electronic dimmer that uses a Triac to control the output
check the boards by swapping with a working one(hopefully that doesnt cause a working board to become damaged due to another fault

Posted by Bernie Anderson Jr (Member # 410) on 01-12-2014, 05:19 PM:

Check the boards definitely. Any arching as you described should leave a sign of where it occurred.

Gordon, couldn't the Triac board be modified with newer ICs?

Posted by Ed Inman (Member # 2583) on 01-12-2014, 06:35 PM:

It's down at my shop but I'll take a closer look at the boards & post a link to a picture in a day or two if I see anything unusual. many thanks--Ed

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-12-2014, 07:19 PM:

No the chip was a set of transitor pairs

Posted by Louis Bornwasser (Member # 3063) on 01-12-2014, 08:02 PM:

Has anyone just connected this up without the 2 boards? It appears to be a conventional rectifier. Perhaps it would run full up? Louis

Posted by John Eickhof (Member # 323) on 01-13-2014, 09:18 PM:

I still have nos parts for the m-1000 it sounds like either the control board (top one) or the blocking diode (mounted on the center bulkhead) or an open filter cap. (I also have nos) If you cant solve it, please email me. I have a complete runner unit I just picked up in Cal. today...small world...John

Posted by Bernie Anderson Jr (Member # 410) on 01-14-2014, 08:55 PM:

It probably be best to replace the filter caps while your'e at it with fresh ones with a higher microfarrad rating. It helps to filter the AC better. Same voltage rating.

Bernie

John did you get my email about the super intermit tents?

Posted by John Eickhof (Member # 323) on 01-14-2014, 10:58 PM:

hi bernie, yes, i just need to go to the shop and see exactly what i have left. im in ca this wk for a meeting. ill let you know soon. john

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-21-2014, 10:05 PM:

Gord,

Obsolete doesn't mean unavailable. I've never had issues finding onesies or twosies of obsolete semiconductors. There are a multitude of places here in the States and over seas that specialize in obsolete devices. Ebay is also a very good place to start looking as many of those companies sell there. Some of the voltage regulator IC's in the Panastereos are also obsolete but I found a stash of them in Austrailia that I bought.

Mark