Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Anyone familiar with Highlight 2a wiring?

This is topic Anyone familiar with Highlight 2a wiring? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011754

Posted by John Geary (Member # 668) on 12-02-2014, 02:53 AM:

Hi,
I've been looking into how to wire this console for single phase operation. After doing a search I see that as long as I have a switcher supply, which I do, I can just connect L1 & L3 for single phase 220. my question is, do I have to bypass the service panel and just connect to the switcher supply? After looking at the diagram in the warehouse section, there's an L1, L3 connection on the console where the service comes in, but since this was wired formerly for 3 phase, there are wires connected to L2 which I haven't traced yet. In any case, whatever is in L2 will not get power. it seems the automation in the console is just a 2 wire connection which I assume will get 1 leg of 110, as well as the projector motor? I'm just assuming all this with out really having gone into tracing out the connections so far. I was hoping someone could shed some light so I don't end up blowing anything up.

thanks

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 12-02-2014, 04:24 PM:

As I recall everything except the rectifier runs on 120V - one of the phases to neutral. Strong tried to balance the phase loads so not all loads are on the same phase. The split up is done on the breakers at the front. There should be no load across phases except the rectifier input, so if you remove the rectifier power wiring then connect a 120V feed with neutral to neutral, ground to ground, and line to L1, L2, plus L3 it should work: all the front breakers will be doing what they say they do. If you connect pretty much any Strong rectifier (powered from a separate 208/220V source) output and control wiring the way the old one was it may just work. The consoles do something different from a standalone lamphouse with wire #5 and #6, some rectifiers had a "console/lamphouse" switch to accommodate that, some had a wiring change in the MS connector. I don't quite remember what the difference is: it might blow a fuse, or either not turn on the lamp or not turn it off with an airflow or door safety activated open.

Posted by John Geary (Member # 668) on 12-02-2014, 06:38 PM:

Thanks for the info Dave,
So if I'm reading this right, I separate the switcher supply from the console and feed it it's own 220, And just feed the console 110/120 for the automation/projector/led power supplies etc. using the existing neutral & ground connections. I'll probably be attempting the rewiring in a few weeks, but I just wanted to get an idea on how to set this up in advance. I'll post back again with the results.

Thanks again