Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Kinoton FP38E is it worth the effort?

This is topic Kinoton FP38E is it worth the effort? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Florian Kuik (Member # 9322) on 04-02-2016, 09:51 AM:

I have bought a Kinoton FP38e. Unfortunatly it isn't complete with al the 16mm parts. It has the build in amplifier and the right firmware. All the 16mm conversion parts are boxed and then gone missing [Frown]

2 questions for who may take the time to answer.

Is it worth the trouble of getting the right parts for this machine?

If the answer is yes, what parts I need to order? And what are the places to get them? Looked at ebay, and in the forums.

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 04-02-2016, 10:54 AM:

If you want to run 16mm...then that is an emphatic YES! It is the best 16mm machine I've come across.

Are your projector(s) air or water cooled? The only difference is the heat shield behind the aperture. Kinoton has called it a light baffle, heat shield and Fire Plate.

Regardless, you'll need:

1000 463 37014 Film Track, key, w/aperture and Runner Strip.
This may be the hardest one to get since it normally isn't a wearing part.

1000 463 17021 Skate.

1000 525 37050 Pad Shoes (you'll need 2...they clip in the 35mm pad shoes)

Some spindles and you'll need two of them. They came in three flavors:
1000 535 77032 (bayonet mount 8mm square spindle but will run round/square reels)

1000 535 77028 (as above but non-bayonet, you have to remove the screws)

1000 535 77031 (my favorite, one uses a lock nut to hold the reel on...prevents the reel from flopping about since 16mm isn't very wide, the locknut holds it tight to the spindle.

Getting a pair of any of the above will work for the machine though.

And finally the light/heat shield that goes behind the aperture:
For air cooled 1000 463 57013

For water cooled 1000 451 17004

Note, the water cooled version is just a normal aperture plate cut to the proper dimensions so you can take a pin-hole plate (aka "blind") and cut it out to the right dimensions.

I'd check with whomever sold Kinoton projectors in your area to see if they have any parts on-hand. And failing that, ask if they have a relationship with the current company, Kinoton Digital Solutions. KDS still has some support with parts though you'll find that wearing parts are going to be more likely to be available. You may try to contact them and ask if they can point you to an entity that can get you the parts, if they are available. http://www.kinoton.de/en/home.html

Posted by Florian Kuik (Member # 9322) on 04-03-2016, 01:39 PM:

Thanks for the input! Will try and see if I can find any!

Posted by Simon Wyss (Member # 6218) on 04-05-2016, 01:52 AM:

It’s okay for running continuously exposed prints but if you want to extract maximum steadiness a different movement is advised.

Cameras and printers made according to DIN ISO 69 locate the film in the +3 perforation hole, counted from the optical axis. Projectors should do the same. Claw drive designs most often have a shorter film gate than those with an intermittently revolving sprocket drum and therefore less friction. Drum drives can’t swallow much film shrinkage, either.

I have a 1940’s Dixi-724 with Strong high-intensity carbon arc lamp and rectifier for sale. Played with it commercially on a screen of 10.8 by 14.4 feet size. It has a three-blade shutter, you can run it at any speed from zero to about 30 fps. Heavy piece of equipment

Posted by Florian Kuik (Member # 9322) on 04-06-2016, 01:04 PM:

Not looking for another machine. The fp38e is in my basement, will try to have it complete, before parts run out!

Anybody who has parts for it (skate etc.) please contact me!

Posted by Jason Metcalfe (Member # 5739) on 05-17-2016, 09:58 AM:

Steve, how do you feel about the "D" model compared to the "E"? Any ideas about where we could pick a pair of these up on the east coast?